Question about 1990 Jaguar XJ6
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Unless you are mechanically competent, I would not advise you carry out this procedure yourself, but leave it to the professionals.
If you are mechanically minded, and competent, the pads are relatively easy to replace, as follows.
Jack up the vehicle and put on stands, if you don´t have access to a hoist?
Remove wheels, and open the hood, put some kitchen roll around the brake fluid reservoir, to catch any excess brake fluid, when you push back the brake caliper pistons, if it´s been overfilled.
On the front brake caliper's, you are best to put in a little lever between pads and disc, and ease back the piston to fully retracted, unless you have a small G clamp which will do the same job when caliper is adrift.
Remove the 2 x 13mm caliper securing bolts and swing off the caliper, and support with a piece of wire, don´t just let it dangle on the brake hose.
Remove the brake pads, and sensor wire, check the caliper piston dust cover for splits, and clean caliper, housing, etc, and disc, with brake cleaner.
Fit the new brake pads to the caliper, and refit with 2 new securing bolts with blue lock tite, (normally supplied with the B/Pads.)
The rear caliper´s are pretty much the same as the front, although you can just undo the top bolt and swing the caliper back, but I usually remove both, for ease of cleaning, and inspection.
After rear caliper´s and pads and sensor wire, and new bolts are fitted, pump the brake pedal with the ignition on, and just run around, and check there are no leaks from the caliper pistons.
Check the fluid level, and lower with suction syringe if necessary.
By the way, 1. When did you last change your brake fluid ?
2. Adjust your front wheel bearings end float ?
You could do this now before you fit the wheels.?
Let me know if you wish the details for that too ?
Good luck !
Don´t forget to give me a FixYa rating please !
Then refit wheels, drop down the car,
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve
this is all I could find
Posted on Nov 10, 2009
The is a very good CD workshop manual availible on ebay, costs a lot less than the Haynes manual, and gives a lot more info.
Posted on Mar 30, 2010
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