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Re: Trunk "popper" quit working, but "pull down" still...
Can you still open it through the key? does the pull down motor not work at all? if the pull down still works it sounds like the popper has just gone weak/bad . they need to be replaced after so long. seeing as you should have a keyfob and a button in the car. im assuming that means its the solenoid switch for the trunk release which is a 30 dollar part.
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Hello: If the pull down motor case isn't broken, then before replacing the motor I would replace the pull down motor switch, it is black and on the left side of the motor, take note of how the switch is mounted on the motor (the position of the tang on the switch in relation to the actuator. The pull down switch is held on with one screw.
Open the trunk and carefully pull off the trunk lid carpet liner by working at each black push-pin. They will be tight, so confine your pulling to as close to each as possible. Using a deepwell 10mm socket, remove the 11 (?) nut washers on the studs holding the license plate and lamp assembly onto the trunk lid. Carefully remove the entire license plate/lamp assembly. You can remove the sockets and harness if desired.
You will need to replace ALL the bulbs - why go through this again ?? You'll need 4 each #194 (tag/running lights), 4 each #3457, and 2 each 2357.
The OEM bulbs are #3057 and #1157, but the new numbers are slightly brighter. Don't worry about the backup lamp bulbs being dual-filament: the wedge base will always align the correct filaments in the socket.
Now place a dab of flexible duct seal (hardware store) around each stud base. Carefully push the assembly back into place, and using an assistant, check the operation of all circuits. OK ?? replace all the nut washers, snugging them up in a center to outside sequence to spread the loads - don't tighten each one all the way the first time - work around and around 3 times.
If you still have a bulb out or dim bulbs, then check the wire harness where it exits the left trunk hinge rail and also the harness ground at the sheet metal at the left fenderwell. Read more at http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/194807-2001-sts-reverse-lights-replacement-how.html?kcplink=1Read more at http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/194807-2001-sts-reverse-lights-replacement-how.html?kcplink=1
attach to the motor pulldown unit there is a electrical plug. check to see if this is plggged in and the the pull down motor assembly is making a good gound connection. also the problem could be the switch on the pull down unit which is a replacement item. if trunk was slam closed , it damages this switch.
The small switch is the trunk by the pull down motor with the flap that depresses down is at fault. That is what you call the truck pull down switch. You can take this part and show it to a Cadillac or Ford parts department sales person and get a replacement for you car. Ford uses the same part for their Lincolns and Crown Vic's. The part is made by the very same supplier for Ford & GM. Ford will sell this part at a much lower cost as well compared to GM
You can fix it easily. The strip bolts in from the inside of the trunk lid.You may have to pull a felt lid liner down to access the bolts. The light bar in only serviced as an assembly so you will have to replace the whole thing. Good Luck
sounds like the the trunk pull down assy is not raising. On the pull down is a black little piece of plastic ( part of the switch ), Flip up plastic to see if motor wll raise pull down, then the trunk can be closed normally. If it doesn't raise, further diagnosis will be required in the pull down motor area