When the engine is cold and i start the car there are no rattles, within a few minuets of driving the rattle starts it is not to loud but i know it is there.
if i stop the car and turn the ignition on without starting the car for 10 seconds and start the car there is no rattle. then again after a few moments the rattle comes back.
Q1 is the oil pump going
Q2 is there a blockage some where
Q3 can flushing out the engine clear any thing that is blocking the way
Depending in the mileage, sometimes the crankshaft bearings were out lowering the oil pressure. including an additive or one grade heavier oil could solve the tappets clicking. Also check the connections to the fuel injectors and the gas pressure to the injectors.
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if it is short lived then it may be the hydraulic tappets filling with oil before they quieten down. Problem will be wrong oil viscosity--wrong oil filter (no anti drain back valve in it) or worn out hydraulic tappets. have them removed for a leak down test.
this is because the oil has leaked back down out of the hydraulic tappets Replace the filter with a genuine unit as it has a anti drain back valve inside it . Check the viscosity of the oil and consider going up a grade
If it is a 'squealing' noise it's probably the alternator/power steering drive belt. Before you turn on the engine in the morning, lightlt smear or spray some oil on the inside of the drive belt to lubricate it. If the squealing stops/disappears, then that's the fault ..
That squealing noise can be caused by an incorrectly tensioned belt, or a worn belt. Replacement is the only option.
The other frightening sounds can best be described as 'rattles' or 'tapping'. When a car stands overnight all the oil drains back into the sump (oil/pan).
There are two things (usually) that can be cause the rattle/tap:
1. Because the oil hasn't been pumped around the system, at start up worn big end bearings can rattle and tap on the crankshaft until the oil 'fills the gaps'. The tapping/rattling goes away as the engine warms and oil is pumped around the lubricating system.
A 'bottom end tapping' is a symptom of worn big ends (they are bearings at the bottom of the piston and fit around the crankshaft).
2. A rattle/tapping from the top of the engine can either be a worn camshaft or 'lazy tappets'. Again, when the engine warms and oil gets to the camshaft and tappets (also called 'hydraulic lifters) the noise will disappear.
If your car has this rattling/tapping noise - identify whether it is coming from just under the rocker box (ie the camshaft/tappets..) or the bottom end of the engine (big end bearings).
If the noise is coming from the top of the engine, try an oil change with a can of thick 'additive' included. A lazy tappet (lifter) isn't too much to worry about. A worn camshaft will affect the performance of the engine, though continue to do its job. An oil change with an additive included may help in quitening things down.
A bottom end tap/rattle (or 'knock') - the sooner that is sorted out the better.
4.0l's are notorious for valve rattle on cold start-up. There is really nothing you can do to make it go away short of completely replacing the valve train in the top end, and that isn't a permanent fix. It's is an top end oiling issue from the factory. Just don't race your engine on cold start-up until the rattle stops.
The rattle in the transmission sounds to me to be more of a loose dust shield/heat shield around the transmission or exhaust than a mechanical issue.