I rebuilt the motor i installed it hooked up the battery i have no head lights, or power any where for that matter, yet i can put the battery in my 81 ford , and it fires up, it has me puzzled i went and added different ground straps, and anopther positive cable, i am very puzzled, looks like i have all my connections hooked up right,
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Try turning engine over with the head lights on, do the head or dash lights dim? Check earth straps, eg. battery to chassis, engine block to chassis, battery to engine block, (may not have battery to engine block), then check starter solenoid/relay and motor, then Check all power fuses, and fuse relays.
Check you fusible links and circuit breakers. Not sure how you put the alternator on but you must disconnect the battery while hooking up the alternator.If you connected it wrong or arced it against something then its possible you popped a fusible link. Use a test light and test on both sides of your fusible links. Try that and see if it helps.
The easiest way is to check around the battery for after-market wiring. If there's no aftermarket stuff hooked up to the battery, someone may have forgotten to re-hook it back up, and it may have fallen to the side of the battery.
The other option is to actually follow the wire, starting from the Visteon and going back. Look toward the trim around the windshield. The installers were headed for the battery, so head to whichever side your battery is on. Remove the trim for a better look if necessary. OEM harnesses are usually encased in black plastic or tape, so the after market wires should stand out. Follow them to the engine compartment.
Be aware of correct polarity when hooking the wires up! The wire with the fuse in-line will be the positive (+) one.
If theres power going to the motor and it doesn't run then the ground could be bad. the motor is grounded by the bolts that hold it on. The fuse is good if you find power at the motor. The plug at the motor will have power at a pin nor matter what position the switch is in as long as the key is on and they all get the power from the same fuse. There is at lease one ground wire and others are ground in different positions of the switch. put power on your test lights clip and test these grounds. ( hook the test light to battery positive and the light will light as you touch it to any ground). The fuses in the main box under the steering collum aren't marked unless you have the owers manuel or alldata. But they should light your test light on both sides with the key on. theres a few that are only on with the lights on and theres the crank fuse thats only on turning the key to crank.
There is a controller mounted on the firewall just above the power brake booster.. It is has the word "Guide" on it. Make sure this unit has power. If this unit checks out, then the problem is in the headlight switch itself.
If you know the fan works with direct battery voltage and you have no voltage at the fuse block then you have a problem at the fuse block. You need to remove it and check for corrosion or a short. This could also have something to do with your radio and buzzer. Pull the fuse for the radio and remove the buzzer and then check to see if your test lamp lights across the 25 amp fuse opening for the blower.
Also with fuse in place check for voltage at the yellow/brown wire going into the blower motor switch. Just cover all your bases before going at removing the fuse block.
Check your neutral switch, its usually on drivers side on the back of stearing column .Its easy to reach and if you consult a mechanics service book, it will be alot easier to find and save you alot of frustration. Please rate this. Thanx.