I rebuilt the motor i installed it hooked up the battery i have no head lights, or power any where for that matter, yet i can put the battery in my 81 ford , and it fires up, it has me puzzled i went and added different ground straps, and anopther positive cable, i am very puzzled, looks like i have all my connections hooked up right,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
So when you turn the key to on, no dash warning lights and gauges turn on? Did you check the fuses with a voltmeter or test light? With key off, some fuses would have power at all times-brake lights, headlights, horn- but with key on, all fuses should show power.
Just off the battery is the Battery Junction Block, where the power is distributed to various circuits through Fusible Links. These connect to battery power with eyelet connectors at the Junction Block-looks like 5 or 6 Links leading off the Block. Even the small wire from the battery to the Block is a Fusible Link, but if your headlights work, this main Link must be okay. One of the Links from the Junction Block would be to the ignition switch. If your ignition switch has power, you may have a bad switch, but you need to check if it has power first. If no power to switch, check the Fusible Links. The diagram I am looking at does not show which one it is, unfortunately.
Try turning engine over with the head lights on, do the head or dash lights dim? Check earth straps, eg. battery to chassis, engine block to chassis, battery to engine block, (may not have battery to engine block), then check starter solenoid/relay and motor, then Check all power fuses, and fuse relays.
Check you fusible links and circuit breakers. Not sure how you put the alternator on but you must disconnect the battery while hooking up the alternator.If you connected it wrong or arced it against something then its possible you popped a fusible link. Use a test light and test on both sides of your fusible links. Try that and see if it helps.
The easiest way is to check around the battery for after-market wiring. If there's no aftermarket stuff hooked up to the battery, someone may have forgotten to re-hook it back up, and it may have fallen to the side of the battery.
The other option is to actually follow the wire, starting from the Visteon and going back. Look toward the trim around the windshield. The installers were headed for the battery, so head to whichever side your battery is on. Remove the trim for a better look if necessary. OEM harnesses are usually encased in black plastic or tape, so the after market wires should stand out. Follow them to the engine compartment.
Be aware of correct polarity when hooking the wires up! The wire with the fuse in-line will be the positive (+) one.
If theres power going to the motor and it doesn't run then the ground could be bad. the motor is grounded by the bolts that hold it on. The fuse is good if you find power at the motor. The plug at the motor will have power at a pin nor matter what position the switch is in as long as the key is on and they all get the power from the same fuse. There is at lease one ground wire and others are ground in different positions of the switch. put power on your test lights clip and test these grounds. ( hook the test light to battery positive and the light will light as you touch it to any ground). The fuses in the main box under the steering collum aren't marked unless you have the owers manuel or alldata. But they should light your test light on both sides with the key on. theres a few that are only on with the lights on and theres the crank fuse thats only on turning the key to crank.
There is a controller mounted on the firewall just above the power brake booster.. It is has the word "Guide" on it. Make sure this unit has power. If this unit checks out, then the problem is in the headlight switch itself.
If you know the fan works with direct battery voltage and you have no voltage at the fuse block then you have a problem at the fuse block. You need to remove it and check for corrosion or a short. This could also have something to do with your radio and buzzer. Pull the fuse for the radio and remove the buzzer and then check to see if your test lamp lights across the 25 amp fuse opening for the blower.
Also with fuse in place check for voltage at the yellow/brown wire going into the blower motor switch. Just cover all your bases before going at removing the fuse block.
Check your neutral switch, its usually on drivers side on the back of stearing column .Its easy to reach and if you consult a mechanics service book, it will be alot easier to find and save you alot of frustration. Please rate this. Thanx.