How to replace the rear disc on my b5 1.8t
You'll need a metric wrench set, ratchet, 8mm Allen bit, torque wrench, 17mm socket (for the lugs), and likely a breaker bar, a large screwdriver and a rubber mallet.
Remove the wheel first. Then look at the caliper - it's made of two pieces bolted together. At the top and bottom, see those black accordion-looking boots? On the backside of those are two bolts that must be removed. Once they're off, you can pry the center section of the caliper (which holds the pads) off, levering the screwdriver against the carrier. Don't let it hang by the e-brake cable or fluid line - hang it with a wire hanger, bungee cord, or let it sit on something.
Then, the remaining part of the caliper that is still bolted up (called the carrier) has to be removed. For this, you'll need to remove two bolts on the rear side that bolt it to the hub. To take them out, you need an 8mm male Allen bit. Once they're out, the carrier comes off, and the rotor will come right off (you may have to hit it with a rubber mallet).
Be sure to replace your pads when you replace the rotors though - don't reuse old pads with new rotors. To change the rear pads, just pull them off the caliper. You'll have to borrow, buy, or rent a piston retracting tool to get the caliper piston back in far enough to allow a new set of pads to seat on either side of the rotor. The front calipers can be compressed with a C-clamp, but the rears are a screw-in type that require a screw-in tool (for lack of a better term). Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood so that the piston can be screwed back in without having to fight the pressure from the fluid in the lines. Screw the piston back in, seat the new pads (put some anti-squeal grease on the back sides of them), and after the new rotor is on and the carrier is bolted back up, load the caliper with the new pads and remount it to the carrier. Tighten the brake fluid cap now, before pushing the brake pedal down.
Last step is to bolt your wheel back on - use a torque wrench and torque to 90 ft-lbs using a skip-one method to ensure even torque across the face of the hub. Pump up the brake pedal several times to be sure you have pedal pressure that you can rely on.
Bed the pads in by getting the car up around 30mph and stopping it with solid, firm, consistent force on the pedal - don't push the pedal farther toward the floor the slower you go - keep the pedal pressure even until you stop. Do this five or six times and you should be good to go.
Jul 15, 2008 |
1999 Audi A4