I HAVE A '98 CARAVAN. HAD SYSTEM GASSED UP WITH FREION, LAST 1 DAY. RAN DYE THROUGH HOSES TO CHECK FOR LEAKS, COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING. COULD THE PROBLEM BE THE EVAPORATOR COIL? THE SYSTEM BLOWS FINE, JUST NOT COLD AIR.
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Re: 1998 AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM NOT COOLING
When u say u checked for leaks did u use a uv light and the yllow glasses cause thats the only way to see leaks i would check all connections including service ports under the red n blue caps (high n lowside ) also if ur system went to low u might have to evactuated first for it to work also when u take it in to evactuate the system they should tell u if its holding pressure
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I am not an automotive air conditioning expert, but generically speaking the common cause of weak cooling is loss of the cooling gas, compressor becoming weak, or a defective control valve; in that order. Most of the time in air conditioning systems they make a slow leak and eventually loose the cooling gas (freon).
Automobiles are ******* the air conditioning system because of the roughness they have to endure with bumps, jarring around, and severe conditions.
A common type of problem is the condenser leaking. The condenser becomes very humid all the time due to it being cold. The humidity promotes corrosion in its piping.
The air conditioning service person will put in the gas with an ultraviolet dye, run the system for a while, and then examine the system using an ultra violet lamp. He will be able to see where the leaks are occurring and thus give an estimate for the parts that must be replaced.
If you have an older vehicle, the air conditioning system can end up being rather expensive to service. With some of the common type faults don't be surprised if repairs can go in to a number of thousands of dollars, unless you are luck and the fault is a simple seal or gasket.
Hi there: What can happen is the vehicles Freon will leak out and reduce the total pressure in the system. Then the low-pressure cut out switch will disengage the compressor when the low side is detected below 25 psi.
This safety feature is to protect the compressor itself. I have seen mechanics bypass the low cut out switch for testing. This should never be done and is not recommended.
The visual presence of oil around a fitting or pressurized line is a strong indication of a refrigerant leak. So my first step in air-conditioning leak diagnosis is to perform a very careful visual inspection of the entire system.
Although this is always my first step for diagnosing Freon leaks it is not always effective in finding the exact problem. In fact, this visual inspection will only uncover large to extremely large leaks. A more common air-conditioning problem would be small leaks that allow Freon to escape over long periods of time. So to follow will be some methods to detect these small leaks. - The Robinair leak detector is a hand held battery operated
electronic leak sniffer. The test probe on the end of the leak detector
is moved about 1 inch per second in the areas of suspected leaks. The Robin air leak detector has an alarm that will go off when it
detects the presence of a Freon leak. Note on some other models they may
have flashing lights or a buzzer. Also some leak detectors are
specialized to detect only certain freons (example: 134a) but they all
are designed to alert you when they sniff the refrigerant.
- To find refrigerant leaks using the fluorescent tracer system, you first have to install the fluorescent dye into the cars air-conditioning system. Always follow the instructions and do not install too much dye! Too much can reduce the cooling efficiency of the system. Different refrigerant dye leak detectors will accomplish this in different ways. The system we use at work has a device that looks like a caulking gun, and a hose that connects to the low side fitting. Then you actually push the dye into the low side with the engine running and the compressor engaged. Next you run the air-conditioning system for several minutes to distribute the dye evenly. Then you put on your yellow glasses and examine the system with a fluorescent light. The fluorescent dye shows up easily wearing the yellow glasses.
A very popular selling item is Refrigerant with leak sealer. This item will only seal very small leaks. I have used the stuff pictured to the right "super seal pro" and it does work in some situations.
The Freon leak sealer works best when you have low side system leaks. And if you happen to have a small leak from an O-ring on the low side this stuff works well. If you have a leak on the high-pressure side chances are this sealer will not work for you.
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The compressor has nothing to do with the heater box blowing air. The compressor is used to 'compress' a gas and change it to liquid and back to gas, etc to produce cooling eg air conditioning. Your system is leaking gas and dye is sometimes the only way to find a small leak.
needs to be re gassed firstly injected with a dye to check for leaks common leaks from condenser or corroded pipes and if pump is cutting no leaks found a simple re gass should do it manufacturers do not fill the system full from new to save on gas the more often its used the more efficient it will be
The 850 and the 70 series Volvos have problems with the evaporator developing a leak and the system gets low on refrigerant. The first thing to do is check the system for a correct charge and if it is low add refrigerant and dye to the system so that you looks for any and all leaks