Replaced starter with a new one, but truck still doesn't roll over. Battery is fully charged, voltage is flowing well to connecting wires, starter is able to be manually activated with jumper cables to a running car. There still is no power to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch. Any ideas?
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Is your new battery fully charged? Maybe you need to go slow with a step-by-step process.
The most common cause of a non-starting car is the battery. It is either weak, (low voltage) dead, (zero voltage) or has bad connections. (corroded or loose) I will assume you have a fully charged battery with good connections. (both to battery and starter relay)
If you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the starter relay and apply +12v from the battery to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. (not to be confused with your key switch). If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken. Picture of starter switch prong on the relay is pictured. NOTE: sparks are to be expected, so don't be too scared.
Check battery voltage, should read 12.5 volts or more. Just because it its new, doesn't mean it is charged to full voltage. If battery is fully charged, and connections are good, then I would look at the starter relay or starter motor.
Most likely the solenoid. Check the voltage at the starter, it should be the same as the battery one one of them and nothing on the other one. Work the starter and there should be voltage at the second terminal.
Jump the two terminals together too see if the starter works. Make sure that the car is in neutral and the brake is on.
You can test the starter by bypassing the Starter Relay and using a jumper cable to go from one side of the relay to the other. It will spark, it will get hot enough to melt. But if the Starter is good the engine will crank and spin.
If the Starter does not crank with a direct bypass of the Relay, the starter is bad. If the engine does crank, the Relay you bypassed is bad and needs to be replaced.
One thing to check on the new Battery is the Voltage. The above information will not work on some Fords. A fully charged Battery has between13.2 and 13.4 Volts. The Antitheft system of some Ford products will prevent a start and in some cases reduce Crank Voltage to 6 Volts. I have also seen where a jump started Ford will cut out the Charging circuit after a few minutes of running to stall a potentially stolen vehicle. Battery voltage is therefore critical to a successful repair.
Now a Starter Relay is inexpensive and you can forego testing if you wish. But if you still hear clicks after replacing the Relay, either the Starter is bad or the Battery is not fully charged. Test the Starter as I instructed and go from there.
If battery is new or like new and fully charged, and it still clicks, then the contacts to the battery may be corroded to the point that a 'limited' amount of current flows through the contacts to the starter.
When the starter is removed and bench tested, it will test out ok, so there must be something else wrong with the starting/charging system other than the starter or the battery itself. Something in between the two items is causing your problem.
No power to starter circuit.The starter gets power from battery to start.So check the connection between battery to starter.As you mentioned battery is new ,but still get the battery voltage checked.It should be 12 volts if battery is fully charged.If battery shows 12 volt then check the connection terminal from battery to starter.If connection checked ok then its most probably the problem of faulty starter.It has to be replaced.But if the starter checked out ok by meter, then the problem relates to faulty ignition switch circuit causing this problem.Checking all this possibilities will rule out the exact faulty part causing the problem.----------Thanks.Helpmech.
If the battery is fully charged but the starter is slow, the starter may have an internal short or may just be worn out. Make sure your battery is fully charged and the battery terminals are clean and tight though before buying a new starter.
When its hooked up, you should be able to put 12 volts on the little stud on the solenoid and it should start. One large stud will have 12 volts on it, so just jump it right there. Did you get the wires in the right place. The solenoid should have 1 large wire going down to the starter. Be sure the battery cables are clean and tight ( both ends) Check battery voltage when cranking, should go to 10-11 volts. Check voltage between negative terminal on battery and engine, should be ZERO when cranking. The solenoid has 2 large studs, make sure the battery positive wire and all the other wires are hooked to this stud, the other large stud should just have the wire going to the starter.
if there is no charging then its back to the alternator or the way its hooked up? did you recharge your flat battery with a mains charger after it went flat the first time? as no alternator will charge a battery from flat to fully charged,,,,even if you drove around the world none stop! the new alternator may have given up working becouse you overloaded the voltage regulator trying to recharge a flat battery witch would mean it was very week to start with?