Question about 1996 Chevrolet Suburban

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I need a vacuum hose diagram for 96 suburban... It sounds like I hear a hissin noise from the engine compartment, due to when I step on the gas the truck slalls. What could the issue be? How do I fix it?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Ford Contour Vacuum Intake Manifold

can you explain it little bit more i might be able to help you

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

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SOURCE: i need a 1987 chevy S10 vacuum hose routing diagram

Go to Autozone.com, become member, will give you repair manual,location of parts,diagrams.

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: replacing headlamp vacuum hose in dash

I have a 1970 Corvette, and a 1976 Corvette. I restore and customize Corvettes.

So you're getting ready to do the Fun(?) stuff, huh? Yes sir, nothing will make your day more than replacing your vacuum hoses for the headlamps.

I'm going to detail the hoses out, and the parts they connect to. Then I'm going to give you a link, that I feel will show the headlight vacuum diagram in great detail, plus a few tricks from me.

Let's start with the hose that comes from the intake manifold. The main supply of vacuum. It comes from the rear of the intake, and goes over to a Vacuum Filter. The vacuum filter is an item to replace, as it's a possible source for a vacuum leak, and prevents contaminating particles from entering your engine.
From the vacuum filter there is a hose to a Check Valve. (Another item to replace) The check valve then splits into two fittings. Two hoses come off of it. One hose leads into the firewall, and comes up under the dash. It connects to the light switch. The light switch has two fittings on it. One towards the pull knob, one towards the end of the light switch. This hose connects to the fitting at the end of the light switch.

The fitting on the light switch towards the pull knob, has a hose that comes off, and goes to the Pull Down Switch. (Manual Override Pull Down Switch) The little plastic knob you pull to keep the headlights up, or push in, so they the headlights will close when the headlights are turned off.

The other hose that comes off of the Pull Down switch, goes along the left fender well, and ends at the front of the car. It fits into a plastic 'Tee'. The Tee has two hoses coming off of it. One hose goes to the Left headlight Relay Valve. The other hose goes to the Right headlight Relay Valve.

From here the hoses are color coded. You may not be able to see this color code anymore. The color code of these hoses, is Red, Yellow, and Green.

On the Relay Valve it has a vacuum diaphragm chamber. This chamber looks like two pie pans put together. There are three fittings on the Relay Valve body. There is a fitting on the chamber itself. The hose coming from the Tee I described above, goes to the chamber fitting. The other hose coming from the Tee, goes to the other Relay Valve chamber. Doesn't matter which hose from the Tee, goes to what Relay Valve chamber. But when you look at it, you'll know how to lay those hoses out. You don't want then twisted over each other.

The fitting on the Relay Valve that is on the body of the valve, and nearest the chamber, is Red in color. It has a hose that goes to the back of the Actuator. The 90 degree bent metal tube. The actuator looks like two pie pans put together, too. The Actuator has a rod that comes out of the middle of it, and is what actually moves the headlight.

At the end of the Relay Valve body is a fitting. The one furthest away from the chamber. It has a Green hose coming from it. This hose goes to the Actuator on the other side. It connects to a straight fitting, in the middle of the actuator. This is the same for the other side.

The fitting in the middle of the Relay Valve body, has a Yellow hose coming from it. It goes to that long cylindrical tank in the front of the car. At each end of this tank are the bumper brackets.
This hose connects to a fitting at the end of the cylindrical tank. The cylindrical tank is the Vacuum Reservoir. Same thing for the other side.

The last hose is where we left off at the Check Valve. One hose went to the headlight switch. The other hose runs along the fender well, and connects to the Vacuum Reservoir. The long cylindrical tank up front.

Tricks:
1.With vacuum built up, press the rubber seal that's on the shaft (Rod) coming out of the Actuator. If you hear a vacuum leak, the seal is bad. This seal can be replaced without having to replace the Actuator. It isn't easy, but it isn't that tough.

2.With the check valve removed, blow air into the single inlet. If you can blow air through it, this check valve is shot. It's about $14 and should be replaced.

3.If the Vacuum Filter is soiled looking by holding it up into a bright light, and looking at it, it should be replaced.

4.The best method if your budget will allow, is to buy those vacuum hoses as a kit. They are color coded, and come with instructions.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

michigan man
  • 3533 Answers

SOURCE: need picture diagram of vacuum hoses for 1987 chevy s-10 blazer

try this website to see if they have your car listed its www.autozone.com if you are not able to get it try your local library or local chevrolet dealership in the parts department

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

  • 225 Answers

SOURCE: need a vacuum hose routing diagram

go to a parts shop and ask for a chiltons or a haynes manual. it will be in there. if there is still a good sticker under the hood it will be on there.

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

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Noise coming from engine compartment on 2012 F-150 Ecoboost


This is a problem particular to the 2012 Ford F-150 with V-6 Ecoboost engine.
Right after starting the engine, stepping on the brake, putting it in drive or reverse, do you hear a grinding or buzzing noise coming from the engine compartment?
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http://www.houndmagnetics.com/my2012lariat/MVI_0111.avi
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I have a 96 Tahoe and when i press the brake pedal i hear a hissing sound by the pedal and engine sometimes stalls, what could the problem be ?


That sounds like a brake booster problem. The brake booster runs on engine vacuum to help make the brake pedal easier to push and easier to stop the tahoe. When a booster develops an internal leak, you can hear the vacuum escaping through the leak when you step on the brake. The engine stalls because the vacuum leak in the brake booster also causes a large vacuum leak for the engine.

To verify that this is actually the problem, go outside the vehicle with the hood open. Find the large brake fluid reservoir attached to a large round metal black (usually) canister on the driver's side of the firewall. (back of the engine compartment.) There is a large black rubber hose pushed into the top of the black canister, which is the vacuum line attached to the brake booster. Pull the rubber hose out of the grommet on the booster and stick your finger over the hose. Have someone start the tahoe. You will feel a considerable amount of vacuum pulling at your finger, and if you take your finger off the hose, the engine will stall. Also have someone step on the brakes while your finger is over the vacuum hose. If the noise is gone then you know the problem is in the brake booster.
Don't forget to re-attach the vacuum line to the brake booster. Failure to do this will result in the engine running very rough (if at all) and the brakes will require excessive effort to try to stop the tahoe.

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I need a vacuum hose diagram for a 1996 gmc suburban.Where can I find one?colmar5720@yahoo.com


go to autozone.com set you up a free profile, add your 96 suburban to your vehicles... once you add the vehicle, you can use there free online repair guide, it should have your diagram your looking for on it.. hope this helps you.

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Also I have a GC, 1993, and I noted that besides maintaining a vent hose that is not going anywhere, just this subject with a ribbon next to the front suspension.

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