My 1993 Corolla quit starting. 4 cyl, 1.6. No spark, as tested with a timing light. 12 volts gets to distributor in the smaller connector. I bought a salvaged distributor. Same problemo. The auto wrecker says he tested it on an engine and it worked when he sent it. The coil and igniter are inside the distributor. (He suggested they were outside, on the firewall but I can't find anything like that, and internet searches seem to indicate the ones inside are all there are.) I don't see any cam sensor outside the distributor either. There are two magnetic pickups inside, one four times per revolution, one once per revolution. The coil has low resistance continuity between the primaries and 6K ohm to the button on top. The cap and rotor look almost new. Is there anything outside the distributor that could be the problem? Or did the guy sell me a bad one?
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Re: 1993 Toyota Corolla, No Spark
Assuming the distributor is good and that the ECM/ECU is also good and yet no spark, maybe you simply need to reset the computer. This could be done by removing the battery cable(s).
If that doesn't fixes the problem, then you need to do voltage checks from the crankshaft and camshaft sensors (very low pulsing voltage when engine is cranking) all the way to the ECU/ECM and back to the trigger of the igniter.
A couple of backgrounders: 1. Toyota in 1983 started using the TCCS over the conventional EFI system. This system reads two (2) sensors (crankshaft and camshaft) and needs a feedback from the distributor all fed to the ECU/ECM which then triggers the igniter to fire the coil to produce the spark. Fault on any of the sensors or on the ECU/ECM itself will inhibit the spark; 2. The crankshaft and camshaft sensors need not be on those components, they can and as you posted be in the distributor hence the 4 to 1 and the 1 to 1 per revolution, the magnetic pickups; 3. The ECU/ECM may also take into account security condition (alarm/immobilizer), advance/****** and others and likewise inhibit the spark (igniter trigger).
Of course the easiest would be to have the distributor as a whole tested (sensors, igniters, coil) as well as the ECU/ECM.
Alternately, you may find additional insight from here or here.
Hope this be of additional help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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pull the HT lead from the coil out of the distributor and see if it sparks to the block when turning over. Place it about 1/4 inch away and you should have a blue spark. If you do not have it check the coil and see if you are getting 12 volts at the positive side of the coil.
First you need to retrieve codes from the Engine control module. You can buy a cheap code retriever at harbor freight and get the codes. After you get the codes, if it is P0301 it means cyl #1, P0302 = cyl #2, P0303=cyl 3 and P0304= cyl 4. For ex: if you got P0301 you should remove the ignition coil #1(near the front of the engine, where the pulley is) and change its position with the coil # 2. Also remove the spark plug #1 and change the position with the spark plug #4. Clear the codes and start and run the engine until the check engine light goes on. Check for codes and see if the code change for a different code. If it change the position observe which one is the change. If is P0304 you have a bad spark plug, If it is P0302 you have a bad coil. If it repeat P0301, you have either a low compression, bad injector/connector, bad intake gasket them you should continue your diagnostic. I hope this help you. Junior.
The most likely cause is you have a bad distributor. The coil is inside the distributor and when it gets hot, it quits creating spark. The testing to verify this is a little complicated and takes a little knowhow. To test the coil in the distributor first disconnect the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay (located on the drivers side on the firewall in a group of three relays, it is the middle one) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (on the drivers side in the front of engine compartment to the right of the air filter housing) connectors.
Next, remove the distributor cap and connect a grounded jumper wire near the coil tower. This is to check for spark jumping from the coil.
Jumper pin 30 to pin 87 at the ASD relay.
Check for 12 volts to the Dark Green/Orange wire at the single wire connector at the distributor. This wire feeds the positive side of the coil.
5. Connect a 12v test light to B+. With the probe end of the test light, momentarily tap the Black/Gray wire at pin 11of the PCM. This action should cause the coil to fire. If there is no spark out of the coil tower during this step, the distributor has failed and needs to be replaced. If there is spark from the coil tower check all powers and grounds at the PCM. Hope this helps. Good luck!!
Most common cause of this is a bad crank position sensor. However, do not change it before testing. Test between the b and c terminals of the connector with a digital volt ohm meter (set to ohms) You should read an open circuit there (same reading as if both leads were not touching each other and the meter was turned on) Anything different means it has failed. If it checks out as good, then get yourself a chiltons or haynes manual and follow the test procedures outlined in them. Worst thing you can do is start buying parts and hoping it will solve the problem. If you do that, likely, you will have an engine with lots of new parts that still does not start.
Find an inductive pickup indicator for spark. Place on distributor cap to see if spark is at coil internal tower. If no spark at internal tower, look at ignition module or pickup coil. Ignition modules are prone to failure on 626's. But if you have spark at tower but not at the wire end, then your rotor is gone.
You need a voltmeter or test light to find 12 volts on one side terminal of the coil--the other side terminal goes to the distributor. If both sides have 12 volts, then the points may be dirty. If no 12 volts on the coil, trace that wire back to a resistor block on the firewall--check both ends for 12 volts. If still no 12 volts, check the ignition switch. Have you checked for a blown fuse? Generators are usually nearly totally enclosed and long with several terminals sticking out. Alternators are shorter and wider with lots of ventilation slots and several terminals on the back. They also have a prominent fan behind a smaller pulley. You might see if you can find a Haynes service manual for this car if you are on your own.
check ignition fuse.if okay.remove one of coils connectors using a test light .turn ignition key to on position .terminal 1 on the connector to coil is the first to left with the locking tab up. then remove the ignition module connector terminal 4 is 12 volt supply.4 terminal to the right with lock tab up.connect test light to ground.take the pointed end touch both the terminals for 12 volts with ignition on position.if getting 12 volts.you have PCM PROBLEMS OR CRANK POSITION SENSOR..IF GETTING NO 12 VOLTS YOU GOT A BLOWN FUSE OR GROUNDING PROBLEMS.