Question about 1993 Toyota Corolla
My 1993 Corolla quit starting. 4 cyl, 1.6. No spark, as tested with a timing light. 12 volts gets to distributor in the smaller connector. I bought a salvaged distributor. Same problemo. The auto wrecker says he tested it on an engine and it worked when he sent it. The coil and igniter are inside the distributor. (He suggested they were outside, on the firewall but I can't find anything like that, and internet searches seem to indicate the ones inside are all there are.) I don't see any cam sensor outside the distributor either. There are two magnetic pickups inside, one four times per revolution, one once per revolution. The coil has low resistance continuity between the primaries and 6K ohm to the button on top. The cap and rotor look almost new. Is there anything outside the distributor that could be the problem? Or did the guy sell me a bad one?
Assuming the distributor is good and that the ECM/ECU is also good and yet no spark, maybe you simply need to reset the computer. This could be done by removing the battery cable(s).
If that doesn't fixes the problem, then you need to do voltage checks from the crankshaft and camshaft sensors (very low pulsing voltage when engine is cranking) all the way to the ECU/ECM and back to the trigger of the igniter.
A couple of backgrounders:
1. Toyota in 1983 started using the TCCS over the conventional EFI system. This system reads two (2) sensors (crankshaft and camshaft) and needs a feedback from the distributor all fed to the ECU/ECM which then triggers the igniter to fire the coil to produce the spark. Fault on any of the sensors or on the ECU/ECM itself will inhibit the spark;
2. The crankshaft and camshaft sensors need not be on those components, they can and as you posted be in the distributor hence the 4 to 1 and the 1 to 1 per revolution, the magnetic pickups;
3. The ECU/ECM may also take into account security condition (alarm/immobilizer), advance/****** and others and likewise inhibit the spark (igniter trigger).
Of course the easiest would be to have the distributor as a whole tested (sensors, igniters, coil) as well as the ECU/ECM.
Alternately, you may find additional insight from here or here.
Hope this be of additional help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Jun 16, 2008
Pull the cap and look at the connector on the inside, they like to go gooey.
Also more than once I have had modules "tested" that said good only to find out' they were bad.
Check all connections are clean, and that battery is charged - and holding charge. If it is more than 3 yrs old- suspect it.
Try it after cleaning and charging battery.
If still no-go, look for any connections from distributor to ECU. They can run without connection, so try without it. If it fires up - problem lies with the ECU inhibiting the distributor.
Check that all leads are open circuit - and not shorting or providing a current leak.
Hoe this helps.
Posted on Jun 12, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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