We can not get one bolt off of our front right tire. and we have even gone to shops and they can not get it off, its like its fused on. And of course the calaber is locked up and unless we can get the time off we can not use the vehical. what are the cheapest ways to do this as we do not have much money if we did we would pay someone else to worry about it PLEASE HELP
Have you tried a heavy duty impact wrench? Usually if the lug nut won't come off then either you have to split the nut wit a chisel or twist the stud off with a heavy duty impact wrench. You can also try an impact socket and breaker bar. Slide a long pipe over the handle of the breaker bar to get more leverage and the stud should twist off if the nut doesn't loosen first. Once you get the wheel off, you can remove the front hub and replace the damaged stud.
Another method is to spray the nut and stud with penetrating oil, let it soak in for 30 minutes and then apply heat (a propane torch works fine). Do this a couple of times to break the nut free. DON'T TRY THIS IF YOU HAVE EXPENSIVE RIMS.
If you can't get the nut off because the stud is spinning with the nut then you will have to split the nut with a chisel.
If you have a nut that is rounded off or have a locking lug nut that is damaged, most good tire shops have a tool that can be used to grip the damaged nut and remove it. Good luck with your jeep.
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Re: Calaper locked up
Well when I had one that wouldn't come off they just got the real big air gun, Worse case it rips the head and bolt off at the head. Then all the shop would have to do is replace that one stud bolt(3$ part) along with the caliper(roughly 90$ for a loaded one). I have a 96 jeep country and just had to get both front calipers, pads, rotors, ball joints, u-joints, inside axle shaft. so i definetly feel your pain. That should be all the info you need, Lee
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Have the front end steering components checked for excessive wear and also the alignment. You are aware there is a recall on some years and models for this problem. Tires issues like a separated tire cord can also cause this symptom.
probably a stuck brake caliper. best to just replace caliper and brake pads and have rotor turned or replaced if needed. problem could also be spindle or bearing. Recommend to take to autherized service shop and they can determine what has gone wrong. Will have to be towed.
You need to ask them whether they are talking about 1 front wheel out of alignment to the frame or if 1 front tire is out of alignment to the rear wheels. Or are both front tires out of alignment in 1 direction?
You can sometimes have worn rear mounting bushings for the springs allowing the rear differential tube to canter to one side. This would be similar to the "dogwalk" condition that has the rear running off center to the direction of travel.
The best thing would be to go to a frame shop. The other conditions can mean the frame is tweaked or the rear tube is bent. You could try pulling the rear spring bolts, lay each one on a flat surface and turn the bolt while shining a flashlight under it. A slight bow in the bolt will allow more light to pass under the bolt. Then you will know if the bolt is slightly bent.
Once you know the problem, then you can do something about fixing it. If the right side front is +6 degrees off and the left side is -6 degrees off, the frame is curled to the right. A frame shop has the equipment to make bending adjustments. An alignment shop can only bolt on new straight parts the same as you can.
I hope I have helped give you some ideas; the Alignment shop should have told you more about your problem than its 6 degrees off. They would still have your business for the final Alignment after you worked on the truck, because an Alignment would still be needed.
just take off tire take a clip out and pull out front shoe and take off roter then the back push in the cylender with a c clamp and revers the process of the calaper might come off using boltes then same process
Start by jacking the car up, place on jack stands for safwety, You will see the brake calaper which holds in the shoes, you will see two bolts which holds the brakes together, remove these bolts, then remove the pads. Remopve the bolt and pen holding the rotor on, take the rotor to a brake shop, see if it can be turned instead of having to purchase a new one. When replacing the brake pads you will have to use one of the pads to push the pressure plate back into the calaper to replace the pads. You may want to remove some of the brake fluid so it wont over flow when doing this.
Remove the tires, Remove the calaper bolts, (small heads on them 12mm or so) Remove calaper, Pads are setting in a holder. Lube new pads with litheum grease and place in holder. (look at old pads, one or both may have small metel tab on one end) If the new pads have the tab, put that pad where the old pad with the tab was. (ie. tab to the inside) Press pistion in with a 'C' clamp. If it won't go in easly, it may screw in. If the parking brake cable is hooked to the calaper, it probly screws in. Use large pliers to screw in calaper piston. Place calaper over pads and install bolts (lube bolts) Rember to pump brakes befor driving . to get a solid peddle.
It sounds exactly like a wheel bearing problem.The right side its seems would be the problem. When you turn right it puts more pressure on the bad bearing making it louder. I would suggest replacing both. If on is gone the other one isn't far off. Hope this helps