I just replaced the "Final Stage Resistor" in my 2001 330i. Fixed the probelm 100% !!!. I followed the instructions descibed found here and on other sites. A little challenging, mostly becasue I hate working upside down, but the repair went as descibed. If you're even moderatley handy this is a straighforward project. I'd say about 60 minutes to carefully remove everything and about 30 minutes to put it all back together. Beats $500+ at the dealer!
The problem is the ac resistor located on the passenger side of the center console. It's a little difficult to get to but not impossible. If i remember correctly it cost about 100.00$ from your BMW dealer. If you do a internet search for problems with BMW a/c you will find many post and fixes. BMW has made 3 revisions to this resistor over the past few years. If replacing this parts does not fix it then the only other cause will be the climate control module located in your climate control display. This is a very expensive part.Remove the plastic cover behind the glove box (passenger side) look toward the drivers side close to the bulkhead and it will be there, disconnect the plug, release the clip and pull back gentally (don't break the clips!) it's pretty easy.
Guys, I got the blower fixed of my BMW 520i. It was the resistor. The part cost me £50 and labour was charged at £45 (for half an hours work). The guy at the garage told me that it was a common problem with the BMW cars. Please do not go to a dealer. They said that it will cost me between £80-£160 for just diagnosis of the problem. So I would advise, please go to a garage (specialising in BMW reparis) and talk to them about the resistor. In that way they cannot mess around with you by giving stories as to how complicated the problem is and that how long it will take.
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ac evaporators inside a car become useless f the evaporator fins are blocked with a black greasy gunk
It will stop air flow from the blower motor and will not allow the air to be cooled as it passes through the fins
It is unlikely that there is a blockage in the vents
if a section of the ac evaporator box can be removed , check with alight and mirror to see all the fins are clean and if not , use an ac fin cleaner product to melt the gunk of the fins
Sounds to me like the A/C clutch is no good and out of adjustment.You should goto your nerrest junkyard and get a used assembly take the clutch off then you learn how it comes off and install it on yours the save the pump for later use if needed. The clutch should only have a .010 air gap after install between th inner elctro magnet and the clutch plate it's self.
Hi, you have either a bad cooling fan motor, or a bad relay for the cooling fan motor.
When it begins to heat up, look and see if the fan is running. You can go to a parts store and buy the relay, they will show you where to put it in. If that doesn't fix it, then you need to have the fan motor tested. It could also be a circuoit in the computer gone bad. This happens quite frequently.
The reason it heats while at idle but not while moving is, when you are moving, air flows through the radiator. When stopped, the fan has to push the air. If you have AC, all fans should run when the AC is on.
Chanses are its either the blend door motor quit working or the controls ( temp., selector, blower) in dash are bad, my 95 did the same thing i chg. the blend door motor thinking it was that, but it turned out to be the controls in the dash, 5 minutes work and 140.00 later it was fixed.
Might be the same....You may want to do the diagnosis proceedure. Alot of times its the door actuators. Servos in replace of old cable design. Usually it will be a code 46. DOOR BLEND ACTUATOR SHORT TO BATTERY. The DTC's can be checked with the MTC control and the Odometer
Display of the Mechanical Instrument Cluster if a DRBIII® scan tool is
not available. The MTC control can only be placed into the diagnostic
mode while the engine is running and the vehicle is not moving. To place
the system into it's diagnostic mode, adjust the MTC control to the
The engine must be running with vehicle not moving.
The fan speed set to any speed except OFF.
The temperature control knob in full cold (full counterclockwise position).
The mode control knob must be placed in Defrost position (full clockwise position).
The A/C button can be On or Off.
and hold the rear window defogger (EBL) button until the mechanical
instrument cluster odometer display indicates an "AC00". The BCM will
chime once and the MTC A/C button LED will begin blinking.
the EBL button and wait until the MTC A/C button LED stops blinking.
This means that the error check and climate control door calibration is
complete. NOTE:It is important that no
other control knob or button is pushed until all DTC's are read. Pushing
any button except the A/C button or turning a control knob will end the
diagnostic test without showing the rest of the DTC's. There also may
be other DTC's stored in the BCM not related to the climate control
system. These DTC's can only be found using the DRBIII® scan tool. DTC's
related to the MTC control head will appear on the odometer display in
numerical form after the letters "AC". The odometer display will return
to normal operation if no DTC's are found. If a problem is found, then
the odometer will display the letters "A/C" followed by the DTC number.
The odometer display can only show one DTC at a time. Under certain
circumstances, more than one DTC could be in the memory. To scroll
through any additional DTC's, press the A/C button on the MTC control.
The BCM will beep each time the A/C button is pushed. Continue pushing
the A/C button and recording the DTC's until the odometer returns to
normal operation (note the letters AC will dissapear.
it's either a fuse or it's a bad blower motor, it could be a bad blower
motor resistor but usually you'll get either high or low only, so if
you have nothing on any speed, high low etc, and all the fuses are ok
chances are it's your blower motor.