The eyebolts that hold the outer ends of the front antisway bar break on a regular basis. They are fragile and replacement runs $75 to $100. A lot of garages break them when lifting the car for other service (like brakes or tire changes) so always insist they inspect before and after lifting. It's easier than arguing with them afterwards about who is going to pay for repairs.
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Micpherson strut or independent front. If its the MacPherson strut design of the car on your picture, then clunks on rough pot holed roads or rough dirt. Al's a weird one is a clunk may or may not be heard and /or felt upon first application of breaks. Sometimes noticeable that car travels straight then when brakes applied it suddenly pulls to right or left. If accompanied with a brake squeak then Its a wheel bearing. On independent front suspension all previous symptoms plus one. A ticking sound that is repetative or described as a clicking noise, very faint though. Usually only heard with windows rolled down and driving 20 to 30 mph with a concrete wall next to lane, which echo's the noise to driver but not when in open country, could also be symptoms of control arm bushings. Sway bar bushings only make noise on rough roads. Cabin bushings and all others can usually be visabily checked. If no cracks then its good if small hair line cracks, keep an eye on it, if large cracks and possibly with pieces missing, replace . if its a Chevy replace control arm bushing adjuster bolts. They get grooves wore in them defeating the reason your replacing the bushings as it will still have play, make noise. Etxc. Oh the other symptom is when road tilts to the right side being lower then left then vehicle pulls to right. But if road sloped the other way then pulls that way and usually no pull either way on level ground.. Some pull is natural but too much is bad. Hope it helps. What noise and when does it do it? Where and what are you doing as well as how fast and I could help narrow your possible problems.
It sounds like the CV joints are going bad on the passenger side drive shaft. Make sure none of the obvious like ball joints, struts, springs, and any other suspension parts aren't loose or broken. More than likely its the CV joints, but if you do one side, might as well do the other. (an ounce of prevention saves a major headache later)
A clunking sound in the front is very often the CV joints. This should be more obvious in a slow tight turn. If it is not the CV and is more noticeable on rough roads it could be any one if the suspension joints.
There are many bushings that can become noisy (even engine and transmission mounts) Original struts/shocks usually only go about 50k or so before they start to wear out. As it takes some looking, in order to determine exactly what and where a problem like yours is I recommend that you have a good tech at a shop with a good reputation have a look at it. Then, If it's something you want to do yourself, that's your option. You can take a look underneath and check for obvious loose components but saying your suspension has failed is way too broad of a term. It could be something small or a few items that are worn, or it could be something larger in scope like strut bearings etc...But, from here I won't even try to guess!!!
we had a similar problem last year . When we took it for MOT it was found to have broken rear suspension spring. rattle noise stopped once it was replaced. This year MOT same problem with spring on other side of car!!!
It's probably the rear sway bar links. If you can jack your car up and check right behind both rear wheels you will be abale to see the sway bar which is connected to short links about 5in long with ball joints.
If either of them are broken or not connected anymore it can cause some pretty loud noises when you ride on rough roads or hit bumps. They run about $35 per link so it's not a very expensive repair.