There is a small hook on the right(driver side) of the latch that you can push with a screwdriver (it is hard to see you have to poke around a little)after you take the panel plug out of the rear door cover.I have the same problem I found that that the coil has become week and it does not have enough power to push the lath open. GOOD LUCK firstname.lastname@example.org
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remove the rear seat ; if needed; crawl to the back of the hatch and release the hatch lock from inside using a blade screwdriver or, have a locksmith at the dealer make a new key by code using your vin number
wiring connections or lock latch frozen --to manually bypass latch or to unlock rear hatch -- in the bottom of door panel is a round access hole remove cover just clipped into place using a flashlight and a screw driver about 3 inches in on bottom is the lock latch and window lock latch connections if u pull back on the inner latch u will unlock the hatch which will allow u to open it[ when opened check the wiring connections for corrosion or damage if good ] now u can remove the whole hatch panel and check the latches and actuator the actuator and latches,and rod clips sometimes need to be lubed or sometimes the clips break or disconnect clips can be purchased at any auto store panel is clipped into place carefully pry from a corner and using a screw driver or panel tool pry straight back till panel clip pops replacement of panel put clips in place and push in panel
This is the exact problem that developed on my 96 Honda Accord Wagon. I huddled in the back interior with a utility knife and cut my own rectangular access panel into the plastic. A few inches up from the bottom center (just above the actual latch) I found my problem. A broken plastic clip was failing to hold its end of a metal arm into a hole. I stuck the 'L' end back in the hole and used some wire to secure it. Now I have duct tape decor added to my back interior and a working hatch!
The above info was correct to a point , My door also would not open. I took off whole back panel and sprayed wd-40 over whole mechanism and was able to open door but if you lock it it will not reopen unless you manually move lock. So there must be a cable that comes down into latch that I manually moved. I would hope someone can verify that before I take panel off again or if a whole part must be replaced to come on here and respond and name the part or part number. It would be appreciated. The whole design has major flaws period. It should have a key latch in rear cargo door just in case . Also drivers door has no key either what were the ford engineers smoking when they came up with that. OR is it planned obsolescence !
I have posted this several times I have a 2006 HHR and I agree with you but here is a cheap solution. There is a pin that goes thru the shift cable that is falling out. Above the window buttons pry the little plastic holder out remove the 2 screws take the plastic off of the sides of the console you will see a black plastic frame with holes in it I cut a larger hole between 2 of the small holes with a hack saw on the driver side. Put the car in neutral drivers seat all the way back pull on the shift button and you will see the pin pull it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. I put 598 black loctite sealant on mine and reinstall. Shift back to park if you can get the key out and the doors unlock you have the pin in the right spot and it is making both switches when in park. You can see if it is on the switches by looking thru the hole where the little holder came out. The pin sticks out about a 1/2" on each side. Good luck
I had the same problem. A weather mat got stuck when the hatch closed. After freeing the mat, the hatch would not open. The lock button would go up and down, but the hatch stayed locked.
What happened was the the plastic holder for the metal arm that connected the lock button to the mechanism broke.
There are no screws holding the inside panel, just metal tab clips.
First, I took off the inside close handle--2 bolts. Then I had to work my way from the center tail light, unscrewing it and popping off the left and right trim pieces--metal tab clips. These were covering the back panel. Now the hard part was getting the back panel off. It does pop off and I found it very hard to get something behind the edges.
The plastic holder that held the metal connector in place had broke. I used two plastic pull ties to hold the connector in it's place. Reversed the procedure and it works again.