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Re: CLUTCH QUADRANT 1998 Escort 55 van
Easiest way i have found is to fit a cable off of and mk3 cortina which has the adjuster on the gearbox end,anyway the pedal shaft can be pushed over two plastic spacers keyway located either side of pedal ,evan an old hand like grandad here has a job as its so fiddly.not really a weekend mechanic one this one
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Hi, procedure from autozone.com pasted below. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
The clutch driven disc often contains asbestos, which has been
determined to be a cancer-causing agent Never clean clutch surfaces with
compressed air. Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface. When
cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially-available brake cleaning
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Lift the clutch pedal to its upward-most position to disengage the
pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the
quadrant and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
Open the hood and remove the screw that holds the cable assembly isolator to the dash panel.
Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine
compartment. On 5.0L engines, remove the cable bracket screw from the
Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
Remove the dust cover from the bell housing.
Remove the clip retainer holding the cable assembly to the bell housing.
Slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable.
Remove the dash panel isolator from the cable.
Install the dash panel isolator on the cable assembly.
Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through
the hole in the clutch release lever. Slide the ball on the end of the
cable assembly away from the hole in the clutch release lever.
Install the clip retainer that holds the cable assembly to the bell housing.
Install the dust shield on the bell housing.
Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the
vehicle. On 5.0L engines, install the cable bracket screw in the fender
Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the isolator with a screw.
Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to
disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then, pushing the quadrant forward,
hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant.
Depress the clutch cable several times to adjust the cable.
Pre 1997/9 models of Fords were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.
If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.
If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.
In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure.
There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.
1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on ebay etc.
2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.
Disconnect the FOOT-PEDAL-SPRING to release the slack normally taken up by the 'Quadrant & Pawl' (ratchet) which is faulty.
Remove end of nipple from clutch-cable (engine-end).
Fill slack with bolts & washers or other filler.
Drill hole in LARGE nut & bolt (like split pin but inverted).
FIT NUT & BOLT TO REMAINING PART OF CLUTCH-CABLE NIPPLE.
ONLY CUT VERY END OF CABLE-NIPPLE LEAVING AS MUCH CRIMP AS POSSIBLE, ...then clamp the nut & bolt over the crimp. This is less likely to slip or even cut cable.
Clutch-cable should be able to be re-fitted without tools or tensioning the clutch-arm. Final tension of cable should leave CLUTCH ARM & CABLE SLIGHTLY LOOSE.
NOTE : Overadjustment of clutch can cause damage. Therfore only remove a minimum of slack from the cable.
remove gear stick and check its in properly, if you removed the gear shifter quadrant box bolted to top of gearbox you more than likely put it in while a gear was selected, remove and make sure gear box selectors are all lined up in nuetral then refit quadrant box and then gear lever.
if its hydraulic then adjuster is under the car if a cable it may be auto adjust on the pedal ,but some fords done away with this and their is a allen key headed bold on the pedal shaft about half way up the pedal
LIFT THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO DISENGAGE THE ADJUSTING MECHANISM.THIS MUST BE DONE DURING CABLE INSTALLATION AS FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE SELF ADJUSTER MECHANISM.INSERT THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE DASH PANEL AND THE DASH PANEL GROMMET.( WARNING ) BESURE THE CLUTCH CABLE IS ROUTED UNDER THE BRAKE LINES AND NOT TRAPPED AT THE SPRING TOWER BY THE BRAKE LINES IF EQUIPPED WITH POWER STEERING ROUTE THE CABLE INBOARD OF THE POWER STEERING HOSE.PUSH THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE INSULATOR ON THE STOP BRACKET AND THROUGH THE RECESS BETWEEN THE PEDAL AND THE GEAR QUADRANT.LIFT THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO RELEASE THE PAWL ROTATE THE GEAR QUADRANT FORWARD AND HOOK THE CABLE INTO THE GEAR QUADRANT.INSTALL THE CLUTCH SHIELD ON THE BRAKE PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET.ON THE TEMPO OR TOPAZ INSTALL THE PANEL ABOVE THE CLUTCH PEDAL.USING A PIECE OF WIRE CORD OR TAPE SECURE THE PEDAL IN THE UPMOST POSITION.INSERT THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE INSULATOR AND CONNECT THE CABLE TO THE CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.REMOVE THE DEVICE USED TO TEMPORARILY SECURE THE PEDAL AGAINST ITS STOP.ADJUST THE CLUTCH BY DEPRESSING THE CLUTCH PEDAL SEVERAL TIMES.INSTALL THE AIR CLEANER.
Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.
Install transmission to flywheel housing.
Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
Install starter motor.
Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable
No, you can change it in the car. Look up between the brake an gas pedals and you see the parts you need to remove. It's kind of tight up there but, it's a lot easier then removing the whole pedal assembly.
This shaft is removable, and the assembly, if not worn extremely bad, can be rebuilt. The assembly is called a quadrant. You can go to the local FORD dealer, and tell them to pull up a picture of the quadrant assembly, and you can pick out the parts you need to make the repair. If the shaft has worn out the quadrant bracket, then you will have to replace the assembly.