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firstly, do you have the equipment to change the head gasket.
ie: a suitable torque wrench for the head bolts?
do you know how to re-time the engine having removed and refitted the timing belt(which you should renew)
I`mj looking at the worshop manual now and I presume you know how to strip an engine
The important part is when you replace the head (having made sure it`s not warped or cracked) and having cleaned all mating surfaces, you should have ten cylinder head bolts the tightening sequence is ____________________________
8 6 2 4 10
9 3 1 5 7
the torque settings are assuming you`rs is a M.40 engine is stage1 30 n/m stage 2: angle tighten 90 degrees stage 3 angle tighten 90 degrees.
The torque specs should be the same but I have never heard of this before. Make sure you have the head checked for cracks & checked for warpage. It may need to be planed. Be sure to use a top quality head gasket. Good luck!
YOU HAVE TORQUE IN 2 STEPS.FIRST TORQUE IS 39 FT LBS THEN. SECOND TORQUE WHICH IS FINAL TORQUE. 47 FT LBS.I COULDNT FIND TIMING BELT SETTINGS.YOU PROBABLY HAVE TO BUY A HAYNES MANUAL FOR TIMING BELT SETTINGS.
I had to do this last summer. First I went to Advanced Auto. They read the code for me. One of them was bad, but I went ahead and replaced both. I purchased a manual for the steps, two knock sensors and a gasket set. About 170 dollars total. You will also need a torq wrench in inch pounds. Take your time, keep it clean. Make sure you clean the manifold and engine head surfaces where the gasket seats. Use a non metallic scraper, and if need be solvent to loosen any old gasket material. I found that laying saturated rags on the head surface and leaving them set a few hours helped the most. You can also get the steps and torque specs from either Advance auto or Auto Zone(then you don't need the manual). Use patience when tightening the manifold bolts, you should torque them in the sequence given(in the manual or online) and you have to do it twice, first time at half torque, then the second at full torque. If you over tighten you can crack the manifold. Good luck Art LeDoux, Stillman Valley Illinois
Most likely, it's a blown head gasket but, it could also be a cracked head or a cracked block. Get it fixed ASAP to prevent destroying all your motor bearings. Once the coolant gets into the oil, it's a race against time to get it fixed. The moisture will pit the bearing surfaces and that will destroy them.
Head Bolt Torque
For your 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (3.4L SFI DOHC):
Foot pounds (Final torque)
Torque sequence --------- | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | --------- Step 1: torque in sequence to 33 Ft/Lbs Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.
Foot pounds (Final torque)
Torque sequence --------- | 8 4 1 5 | | 7 3 2 6 | front --------- of engine | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | Step 1: torque to 40 Ft/Lbs --------- Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.