A/c problem REplace the a/c compressor, drier & offirice tube and still no cold air in front or back unit. Vaccum the unit and rechage the freon & oil. Any ideas as to what wrong.

purge system might b over charged &check &make sure compressor is running

I would check the low and high readings with a gauge set first.
Its possible the compressor has failed internally.
If the orifice is plugged up one of the lines should be cold where the freon gas is concentrated.
The fan clutch is working ok, right ?
I'm showing an orifice tube in the front and an expansion valve in the back, so its doubtful both would fail at the same time.

Is the fan running that cools the freon?

In replaceing the a/c compressor you need to replace the a/c filter/drier. The drier is located on the right side of engine compartment,next to the radiator and condenser. The drier absorbes moisture out of the a/c system. If lines were open the drier is like a sponge and will **** up all the moisture from outside. Be sure when replaceing the drier that you pull a vacuum on the system to remove air and moisture from system before you refill with freon. By doing this it will correct your problem. Hope this will help you.

It is possible. It the problem is the compressor. It would be good to change the compressor, drier, and orifice tube. You will also need the conversion kit for the fittings. All of this can easily be bought at the auto parts store. Be sure to vacuum the system and add oil and the freaon. Changing over in the long run will be cheaper, plus you can always buy your own freon, where as leaving it R12, soemone else will need to do it for you and it will cost quite a bit for the freon. In order to convert, compressor, drier, orifice tube, oil, and freon will be about $210. Not a bad investment.

That clutch and coil are serviceable without replacing the compressor but I have had little success with this as usually the clutch gets in that shape subsequently from activity going on inside the compressor which means that clutch is failed generally for a reason.replace the compressor -orfice tube-reciever drier and happy motoring......

I Think I Can,
You Might Be Blending Hot Air With A/C Cold Air And Being 100Deg Outside, Your Getting
Really Warm/Hot Air Inside,
Your System Is Charged w/Freon, The A/C Compressor Is On/Engaged,
There Are 2-Aluminum Tubes Comming From The Compressor, [In & Out Pressure]
1 Tube Will Goto The Front Condensor, Infront Of The Raidator,
The OTHER Tube Comming Out Of The Condensor Will Goto A Dryer,
[Aluminum Looking Cylinder] Bigger Aluminum Tube[s]
The DRYER Will Then Feed Freon To Your Evap-Coil Inside Your Car [Cool-Air],

OK, The Dryer Tube's, 1 Of Them Should Be Cool/Cold, Locate That Tube, A Thermometer
wrapped w/Alum-Foil Around This Tube,
A/C ON, [A/C Compressor Engaged]
If You See The Temp Is Around 50-55 Degree's Or Lower, You Have Cold Air,
If Not, Above That, Low Freon, Or A restriction In The System. [Comes Later]
You Have Cold Air, You Have Warm/Hot Air Inside Car/Vents?
You Are Blending Hot Air w/Cold A/C Air, Problem Is With Heater-A/C Blend Box
Under Dash. There Are 2 Seperate Coils Under The Dash,
1 For Winter/Heat, Other [Evaporator Coil] For A/C, There Is a Diverter/Flapper door
That, For A/C, Closes Off The Heater Coil, Or It Should, To Prevent Engine Hot Water/Heat
From Blending w/ Cold A/C Air.
Most Are Controlled By A Diaphram, Vaccum Controlled From The Heater-A/C Controller
On The Dash.
If You Can Select From Defrost Vent To Dash and Floor Vents, Most Likely you Have
a Bad Diaphram That Controls The Heat-A/C Flapper Valve.
Most Time's You Can Open/Remove The Glove Box And See It,
A Temp Fix, For Cold Air, Would Be Remove The Vaccum Line From That Diaphram,
And Plug It, Pull The Metal Rod Back On The Diaphram with a Needle Nose Pliers,
If you Get Cold Air, Take a Ty-Wrap, Around The Shaft, Secure It, To Keep The
Vent In The Cold Air Position.
Then You Will Have To Get A New Diaphram Installed, Most Time's, Can Be Done
Through The Glove Box Opening.

Now About The Restriction In A System,
You Will Need A Set Of A/C Gauges, Car-Off, A/C Off, Connect Gauges.
IMPORTANT: The Gauges Before Connecting Should Show Pressure In Them [Freon]
Either The Gauges Have Freon In Them Or They Are In A Vaccum.
Otherwise They Have Air In Them, Air w/Freon=BAD Things.
OK, Gauges Show Pressure, Gauges Not Connected To Anything,
Open Up Both Knob's, Blue [Low-Side], Red [High-Side]
Gauges Needles will Move/Equal Out pressure,
BOTH Gauges Should Read Same Pressure, If Not, Quick Fix, Remove Gauge Glass
Covers, Need Little Screwdriver, If Gauges Off By ie: 4 psig,
Adjsut Low-Side [Blue] By 2psig and other, by 2psig, [Split The Difference]
So Now Both Gauges Read IDENTICAL Pressure.
Close Both Valves, Blue & Red
Connect Gauges To Car, Car=Off, A-C=Off
You Will See Pressure On Both Gauges,
Low Side Shuld Be Around 75-95psig, Depending on Outside Temp, If Around 60 or less
need freon.
OK, BOTH Gauges Should Show SAME Pressure reading,
If There Is MORE Than a 4psig Difference Between Them,
There Is A restriction In The System,
a Plugged "Orfice Tube" [Filter] Part Cost $3.00, Servicing The Filter, Alot More.
Restriction Causing Might Be , Moisture/Air in System [Improper Vaccum On System During Last Repairs], Compressor Breaking Down [Metal, Black Goo Bul-up]

Hope You Get Some Cold Air Soon.

Its a leak ...probably concealed like in an evap housing or rear air unit and lines (if it has that). Prob at this juncture I would remove all the freon and bring system into a vaccuum with a pump and see if it will hold vaccum for an extended period of time. A bad leak will not hold srong vacuum very long and much cheaper than wasting expensive and enviromental un0friendly refrigerants.

I think you may have a clogged orifice tube (possible compressor failure starting) this can be checked with a system pressure test.
When an expansion valve or block fails, always replace the drier. Also flush the condenser and liquid lines.

1st Thing,
Located Someone With a Set Of A/C Gauges 134A Freon,
Make Sure Your A/C System Has Enought Freon In It, There Is a Low Freon Pressure Switch
In The Electrical System, Usually, 50-60 PSIG or Less On The Gauges, Will Indicate Low Freon, When Freon Is Low The Compressor Is Dis-engaged To Prevent Compressor Damage.
1] Low Freon
2] Bad Low Pressure switch
3] Blowen Fuse[s]
4] Electrical Problem[s]
[a] Digital Climate Controlled ?
Climate Control Self Diagnose From Button's On Unit, OEM Manual Explains This,
If Yor Auto Has Digital Climate Control.
5] Bad Compressor DC Coil

Note: Does The Compressor Engage, Click-On When Button Is Pressed, But Getting
Only Warm Air?
Is One Of The Compressor Aluminum Tube's Cold, Be Careful Other Is Really Warm/Hot,
If Cold and or Sweating, Dripping Water [Normal], You Are Blending Hot Air w/Cold
Air At The Heater Blend Box, Making Warm Air.
If This Is So, If A Vaccum Controlled Temp Unit, Check For A Vaccum Hose Bad,
Should Be Either 1or 2 Vaccum Lines Going Into Firewall To Feed The Controller
Unit, If OK, Might Be a Bad Blend Box Diaphram, [Control's A/C air, Blocks Off
heater Coil Hot Air].
If Your Auto Is Vaccum Controlled, Can You Changed From Bottom, Dash,
Defrost Air Flow?, Yes, No Vaccum Lost Feeding Controller, Still Might Have
Bad Diaphram Blending Hot Air w/Cold If Your Have Cold Alum-Tubing In
engine Compartment.
If Digital Climate Controlled, Might have Diaphram's, Vaccum Controlled or
electrical Servo's Controlled vs Diaphram [Vaccum] Controlled.
This Might Help, Hopefully, This Is Just For Starter's, There More To Some System's
and Without The OEM Mgr's Manual[s] You/Be Would Be Lost, especially w/Electrical.
Later, God Bless