Question about 2001 Ford Windstar

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A/c problem REplace the a/c compressor, drier & offirice tube and still no cold air in front or back unit. Vaccum the unit and rechage the freon & oil. Any ideas as to what wrong.

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Why did you change compressor? If for failure, or even just changed because not cold, did you flush out entire system? Compressor failure can lead to a clog in the high pressure line. The low pressure line will usually become very cold-may even ice up- but the receiver/dryer will not be very cold to touch. Monitor your head pressure and make sure your pulling less than 25 lbs. on low side 75 F ambient. High side should not exceed 300 lbs.
Charge weights should also be exact as overcharge has same results as undercharge-hot air. If all is good under hood and head pressures o.k., look for debris build up on evaporator core in air box under dash, clean as required. Also make sure blend door is closing properly and heat is not staying on.

Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

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Check engine light and air conditioning


I Think I Can,
You Might Be Blending Hot Air With A/C Cold Air And Being 100Deg Outside, Your Getting
Really Warm/Hot Air Inside,
Your System Is Charged w/Freon, The A/C Compressor Is On/Engaged,
There Are 2-Aluminum Tubes Comming From The Compressor, [In & Out Pressure]
1 Tube Will Goto The Front Condensor, Infront Of The Raidator,
The OTHER Tube Comming Out Of The Condensor Will Goto A Dryer,
[Aluminum Looking Cylinder] Bigger Aluminum Tube[s]
The DRYER Will Then Feed Freon To Your Evap-Coil Inside Your Car [Cool-Air],

OK, The Dryer Tube's, 1 Of Them Should Be Cool/Cold, Locate That Tube, A Thermometer
wrapped w/Alum-Foil Around This Tube,
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You Have Cold Air, You Have Warm/Hot Air Inside Car/Vents?
You Are Blending Hot Air w/Cold A/C Air, Problem Is With Heater-A/C Blend Box
Under Dash. There Are 2 Seperate Coils Under The Dash,
1 For Winter/Heat, Other [Evaporator Coil] For A/C, There Is a Diverter/Flapper door
That, For A/C, Closes Off The Heater Coil, Or It Should, To Prevent Engine Hot Water/Heat
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Most Are Controlled By A Diaphram, Vaccum Controlled From The Heater-A/C Controller
On The Dash.
If You Can Select From Defrost Vent To Dash and Floor Vents, Most Likely you Have
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A Temp Fix, For Cold Air, Would Be Remove The Vaccum Line From That Diaphram,
And Plug It, Pull The Metal Rod Back On The Diaphram with a Needle Nose Pliers,
If you Get Cold Air, Take a Ty-Wrap, Around The Shaft, Secure It, To Keep The
Vent In The Cold Air Position.
Then You Will Have To Get A New Diaphram Installed, Most Time's, Can Be Done
Through The Glove Box Opening.

Now About The Restriction In A System,
You Will Need A Set Of A/C Gauges, Car-Off, A/C Off, Connect Gauges.
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Either The Gauges Have Freon In Them Or They Are In A Vaccum.
Otherwise They Have Air In Them, Air w/Freon=BAD Things.
OK, Gauges Show Pressure, Gauges Not Connected To Anything,
Open Up Both Knob's, Blue [Low-Side], Red [High-Side]
Gauges Needles will Move/Equal Out pressure,
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Covers, Need Little Screwdriver, If Gauges Off By ie: 4 psig,
Adjsut Low-Side [Blue] By 2psig and other, by 2psig, [Split The Difference]
So Now Both Gauges Read IDENTICAL Pressure.
Close Both Valves, Blue & Red
Connect Gauges To Car, Car=Off, A-C=Off
You Will See Pressure On Both Gauges,
Low Side Shuld Be Around 75-95psig, Depending on Outside Temp, If Around 60 or less
need freon.
OK, BOTH Gauges Should Show SAME Pressure reading,
If There Is MORE Than a 4psig Difference Between Them,
There Is A restriction In The System,
a Plugged "Orfice Tube" [Filter] Part Cost $3.00, Servicing The Filter, Alot More.
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Hope You Get Some Cold Air Soon.

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Its a leak ...probably concealed like in an evap housing or rear air unit and lines (if it has that). Prob at this juncture I would remove all the freon and bring system into a vaccuum with a pump and see if it will hold vaccum for an extended period of time. A bad leak will not hold srong vacuum very long and much cheaper than wasting expensive and enviromental un0friendly refrigerants.

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1 Answer

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i had same problem 2 years ago. the actuator door tube was snapped in half and i used acquarium tubing to splice together. The tube runs along the passenger front well well inside engine and meets under the battery carriage. I could not tell anything was wrong without removing the battery to get a closer look. works like a champ now.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

2000 mercury grand marquis air conditioning won't work


1st Thing,
Located Someone With a Set Of A/C Gauges 134A Freon,
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1] Low Freon
2] Bad Low Pressure switch
3] Blowen Fuse[s]
4] Electrical Problem[s]
[a] Digital Climate Controlled ?
Climate Control Self Diagnose From Button's On Unit, OEM Manual Explains This,
If Yor Auto Has Digital Climate Control.
5] Bad Compressor DC Coil

Note: Does The Compressor Engage, Click-On When Button Is Pressed, But Getting
Only Warm Air?
Is One Of The Compressor Aluminum Tube's Cold, Be Careful Other Is Really Warm/Hot,
If Cold and or Sweating, Dripping Water [Normal], You Are Blending Hot Air w/Cold
Air At The Heater Blend Box, Making Warm Air.
If This Is So, If A Vaccum Controlled Temp Unit, Check For A Vaccum Hose Bad,
Should Be Either 1or 2 Vaccum Lines Going Into Firewall To Feed The Controller
Unit, If OK, Might Be a Bad Blend Box Diaphram, [Control's A/C air, Blocks Off
heater Coil Hot Air].
If Your Auto Is Vaccum Controlled, Can You Changed From Bottom, Dash,
Defrost Air Flow?, Yes, No Vaccum Lost Feeding Controller, Still Might Have
Bad Diaphram Blending Hot Air w/Cold If Your Have Cold Alum-Tubing In
engine Compartment.
If Digital Climate Controlled, Might have Diaphram's, Vaccum Controlled or
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This Might Help, Hopefully, This Is Just For Starter's, There More To Some System's
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Later, God Bless

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