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Re: How do u change cv boots on 4 wheel drive front axle
Okay this can get tricky there are several ways to do this. How i do it I disconect the lower ball join you will need a pry bar to get the lower aframe apart i then take the hub assembly apart if locking hubs. if full time four wheal drive there is a cap at the center of the hub remove cap and take carter pin out remove nut, if has hubs like i said take hub assembly apart may need a tool looks like a big socket remove nut pull rotar assembl off and to the side ussually will swing to the front of the vehicle look at the back of the shaft if goes streight into transfer case should pull right out it may have a plate with several small bolts remove bolts should fall right out. to enstall reverse proceedure. I recommend having a haynes or chiltons manual so you know what the parts look like and what goes where.
Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger
tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a
CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30
and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the
center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety
tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe
placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break
the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
2
Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car
and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point
must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two
jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack
stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out
the jack and move it out of the way.
3
Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the
hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with
the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew
the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV
joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub,
take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it
with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
4
Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel
hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that
holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm.
Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and
sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a
length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud
from the spindle.
5
Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint
disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side
just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the
back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to
the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard
end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the
transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or
replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the
entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
6
Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the
transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and
place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new
shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping
the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket.
Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and
loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
7
Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by
re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and
leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud
positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry
bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel
hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut
tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into
the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking
bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car
from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.
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you've got a bad axle shaft in the front and possibly a bad bearing in the hub. 4/wheel drive makes the front axle actually work. Theys no real pressure on these shafts when in 2/wheel drive.
Sounds like maybe a busted motor mount or transmission mount, or a worn out cv drive axle.Look under the front of the car at the drive axles there is 4 rubber boots 2 on each axle inner boot and outer boot.See if one or more of the boots is torn or split.
The ticking may be caused by a torn or damaged front CV joint boot. Check each side of the axle assembly, right behind the tire for a damaged rubber boot. If the boot is damaged, you should see grease from the axle all over the front components.
How to Replace a CV Boot ( DIY Complexity: Hard / Time: 3.2 hours )
Parts: 1. CV Boot 2. CV Boot Clamp Kit
Tools: 1. Mallet Hammer 2. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet 3. Combination Wrench Set 4. Floor Jack 5. Flashlight 6. Flat Head Screwdriver 7. Socket Set 8. Tire Iron
Steps: Step 1 Secure the vehicle on a level surface, making sure the vehicle will not roll or lean too much when jacked up. o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
Step 2 Lift up the front of the vehicle using a jack. o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.
Step 3 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working. o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.
Step 4 Find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn the wheel lug nuts counter clockwise. Remove the front wheels. o Tip: It is a good idea to try and break the lug nuts free before you jack the wheels off the ground. This way they you will not spin the front wheels or put stress on the transaxle. o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.
Step 5 Inspect the CV boot for damage. o Tip: The CV joint may be worn if the boot is damaged. Thoroughly inspect the CV joint assembly before installing the new boot. If the CV joint is damaged, replace the entire CV joint axle assembly.
Step 6 Mark the axle for installation reference. Remove the CV joint axle assembly.
Step 7 Using a bench vise, hold the shaft of the CV joint secure so that you can separate the CV joint from the shaft. Remove the CV boot clamps.
Step 8 Slide the CV boot off the outer CV joint.
Step 9 Using a rubber mallet, knock the CV joint off of the axle shaft.
Step 10 Remove the old boot from the CV axle shaft and wipe off any old grease. Clean the sealing surface on the CV joint.
Step 11 Fill the CV joint with grease and get it ready to slide back onto the shaft.
Step 12 Slide the new boot onto the shaft but do not tighten the inner clamp yet. Install a new retaining clip before putting the joint and axle together.
Step 13 Slide the CV joint back onto the axle shaft completely.
Step 14 Pack the boot with grease and slide the boot over the CV joint housing. Secure the boot with new clamps.
Step 15 Install the CV joint and axle back into the vehicle in the reverse order that it was removed.
Step 16 Mount the wheel back onto the hub assembly.
Step 17 Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern and torque to suggested manufacturer specifications in the vehicle owner’s manual.
Step 18 Remove jack stands.
Step 19 Lower vehicle with jack until it is securely on the ground.
Step 20 Drive the vehicle to make sure that any noises are no longer present and that there are no indications of wearing parts. Before road testing, visually inspect the area you have worked on to make sure everything is tightened and assembled properly.
Hope help with this (remember rated and comment this help).
Without seeing and hearing the noise in person I can only speculate as to the actual cause of the problem. The issue is more than likely caused by one of the two following failures: 1. A failed CV axle boot on the drivers side nearest the wheel. 2. (less likely) A failing drivers side hub bearing. To me, however, your complaint describes to a "T" a bad CV axle. CV stands for constant velocity. This type of drive axle was designed for front wheel drive applications in order to allow the axles driving the front wheels to not only adapt to uneven road surfaces but also pivot with the steering knuckles to steer the vehicle while maintaining rotational speed. To achieve this CV axles use special joints at either end called trunions. These joints are lubricated with a thick grease which is contained by rubber boots. In your case the boot closest to the driver's front wheel has torn open allowing the grease to be thrown from the joint during driving. This joint, now unlubricated, has dried out and collected debris from the road. Making otherwise silent operation a disturbing load affair, especially when it is put under maximum stress ie a left hand turn.
Most likely wheel bearing or cv joint issue. look for a ripped open cv boot. I believe that year used cv joints instead of regular u-joints. Hope I helped. Thanks
inner cv joints are the joints on the inner half of the axle shaftswhere they go into the transmission. sometimes the easiest thing to do is replace the axle shafts
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