Problems with Dura Spark ignition system on a 2.8L V6 engine, '76 - '78 Mustang/Capri
I need info, specs and wiring diagrams to help me identify and troubleshoot a Dura Spark ignition system on a 2.8L V6engine, which I’ve been told is from a '76 thru '78 Mustang or Capri (probably ‘76). I'm troubleshooting, rewiring & replacing most of the ignition system.I believe this is Dura Spark II system, but not certain (it might be Dura Spark I) with no EEC-IV or TFI.It has electronic ignition, there are no points on the distributor, it does have a dual vacuum module and has separate/remote mounted Ignition Control Module (with 2 connectors, 6 wires). The engine has run reasonably well at times, but now won’t start and has burned out 3 ignition coils and 1 or 2 ICM’s in just a few hours of operation over last few months. (BTW - This engine is on an old Case tractor in a remote location so impractical to take to a mechanic, and I need to move it right away.) I need help to correctly identify exactly which ignition setup this engine has, and the correct ignition wiring diagram &info for this setup.I’ve received much conflicting advice on the engine and ignition system type of coil, type or necessity of resistor. What kind of coil should it have and which is it supposed to have – a resistor or resistor wire,(& what is a “ballast” resistor? Is it different from a regular resistor?).FYI - I’ve contacted Ford & Motorcraft parts dealers with little useful info, only that the distributor and ICM models were discontinued with no alternate replacement.The only online services don’t begin until late 80’s models and the only repair manuals I can find begin with the ’79 to ’83 models which don’t apply directly to these models. I’m trying to find older manuals at local used bookstore, but don’t have time. Any advice or resources that can help me get the specifications for the entire ignition system would be helpful so I can get the correct parts and correct any wiring problems.
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Re: Problems with Dura Spark ignition system on a 2.8L V6...
Very small help:
> ,(& what is a “ballast” resistor? Is it different from a regular resistor?).
Ballast resistors are special; they have what is known as a 'positive temperature coefficient' meaning that they increase in resistance with temperature.
This provides a very hot spark to start, then a reduction in current as the resistor warms up.
This prevented points and coils from frying from unnecessarily high current.
Early electronic ignition systems still used them, I don't think any modern car has them now.
If you have a larger public library, it might be worth a look on line (if available) or a visit to search for a manual; have found some classics there.
If you find it there - copy it, then RETURN IT! :-)
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When you turn ignition key on ( not start ) does the checking light ,light ? Check fuse's for PCM , are they good ? Find a wiring diagram an check power an ground at PCM . Also hook up a scan tool an see if it will communicate with the PCM . That's how you check the PCM ! Also check the constant control relay module , these go bad an they have fuel pump relay , power hold relay , this powers up fuel injectors an ignition system !
ok Ed I found you again and more info , your ignition is point, unless modified style,mallory is a hi out put ignition system ,that gives great spark control,=power goes to coil and is sent to distrubiter to the points to the rotor to the plug wires to spark plugs.NOW you can get any unit of wiring but not the whole car that would take 100 of pages ,or you go and buy a SHOP REPAIR MANUAL for about 125.00 or more what you can do is type in (images of wiring diagrams 1967 mustang (motor size) (and area you need ) ) like ignition ,blower motor,head lights, and look at site ,and lastly join a mustang car club online those guys EAT AND BREATH mustangs and can lead you to all the info you could ever want . I REALLY hope this gives you what your looking for.
Many times the plugs and wires are cancelled out with the coil pak. change all of them, you will be glad you did. The ignition coil pack is a crucial part of your ignition system. It's function is to convert the 12 volt power of your vehicle's electrical system in to 35,000 or more volts. This produces a high intensity spark at the spark plug which then ignites the fuel in the cylinder. Coils in general will wear out over time and cause a misfire condition. In engines like this that use a coil pack, if one coil goes bad, the complete assembly needs to be replaced. PLEZE LET ME KNOW. there isn't anything else.
What kind of plugs and wires did you put in? What engine do you have? If it's the V6, these engines are sensitive to the entire ignition system - use Motocraft only, and you shouldn't have any more problems, assuming there's no other problems anywhere. If you find you need an ignition coil block, do NOY use one of the cheal aftermarket replacements! Spend the bucks to get a Motorcraft.
I would suspect that you have a loose connection inside the distributor or in the ignition wiring. Give it a good visual inspection. Also, after dark, have someone start the car while you observe under the hood for any arcing or sparking. Doing this at night allows you to see where trouble may be located. Let me know what you find. firstname.lastname@example.org