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Problems with Dura Spark ignition system on a 2.8L V6 engine, '76 - '78 Mustang/Capri

I need info, specs and wiring diagrams to help me identify and troubleshoot a Dura Spark ignition system on a 2.8L V6engine, which I’ve been told is from a '76 thru '78 Mustang or Capri (probably ‘76). I'm troubleshooting, rewiring & replacing most of the ignition system. I believe this is Dura Spark II system, but not certain (it might be Dura Spark I) with no EEC-IV or TFI. It has electronic ignition, there are no points on the distributor, it does have a dual vacuum module and has separate/remote mounted Ignition Control Module (with 2 connectors, 6 wires).

The engine has run reasonably well at times, but now won’t start and has burned out 3 ignition coils and 1 or 2 ICM’s in just a few hours of operation over last few months. (BTW - This engine is on an old Case tractor in a remote location so impractical to take to a mechanic, and I need to move it right away.) I need help to correctly identify exactly which ignition setup this engine has, and the correct ignition wiring diagram &info for this setup. I’ve received much conflicting advice on the engine and ignition system type of coil, type or necessity of resistor. What kind of coil should it have and which is it supposed to have – a resistor or resistor wire,(& what is a “ballast” resistor? Is it different from a regular resistor?).FYI - I’ve contacted Ford & Motorcraft parts dealers with little useful info, only that the distributor and ICM models were discontinued with no alternate replacement. The only online services don’t begin until late 80’s models and the only repair manuals I can find begin with the ’79 to ’83 models which don’t apply directly to these models. I’m trying to find older manuals at local used bookstore, but don’t have time. Any advice or resources that can help me get the specifications for the entire ignition system would be helpful so I can get the correct parts and correct any wiring problems.

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  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    I've had my 1991 Ranger 2.3 at the local Ford dealership for 18 weeks. Today they told me they give up on it, because they think on an old truck, they only way to "fix" things is to keep throwing parts at it until it runs right, and that would cost me more than the truck is worth. The "check engine" light has been on for years. New wires and plugs (8), new cat converter and new timing belt. It runs perfectly 70% of the time, and then suddenly has NO power. All you can do is 5 MPH with pedal floored. If you're lucky, it "kicks back in" and you get full power back. They "suspect" it is the TFI module, which from what I read, is attached to the distributor. I don't think I even HAVE a distributor in this oddball engine. Where is this module, and is this the same thing as the ICM (Rockauto lists an ICM module but not a TFI). Thank you!


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Very small help:
> ,(& what is a “ballast” resistor? Is it different from a regular resistor?).

Ballast resistors are special; they have what is known as a 'positive temperature coefficient' meaning that they increase in resistance with temperature.
This provides a very hot spark to start, then a reduction in current as the resistor warms up.
This prevented points and coils from frying from unnecessarily high current.
Early electronic ignition systems still used them, I don't think any modern car has them now.

If you have a larger public library, it might be worth a look on line (if available) or a visit to search for a manual; have found some classics there.
If you find it there - copy it, then RETURN IT! :-)

Posted on Jun 11, 2008

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How to check pcm, no spark,no fuel, no injection pulse.99 ford mustang 3.8 v6

When you turn ignition key on ( not start ) does the checking light ,light ? Check fuse's for PCM , are they good ? Find a wiring diagram an check power an ground at PCM . Also hook up a scan tool an see if it will communicate with the PCM . That's how you check the PCM ! Also check the constant control relay module , these go bad an they have fuel pump relay , power hold relay , this powers up fuel injectors an ignition system !

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1st off You have a HYUNDIA SANTE FE not a HONDA so check that you have the correct parts first.

Checking spark on these vehicles requires a special tool which shows the arc in line with the coil and plug.

An important point to keep in mind with respect to all types of ignition coils is that when the magnetic field collapses, the high-voltage surge has to go someplace. If it can't go to the spark plug, it will find another path to ground - which may be back through the ignition module, PCM driver circuit or through the insulation inside the coil itself. This can be very damaging to these parts. So never disconnect a plug wire or COP coil while the engine is running. It can be very damaging as well as dangerous to you should you become the path to ground. When a coil failure occurs on a distributor ignition system, it affects all of the cylinders. The engine may not start, or it may misfire badly when under load. But with multi-coil ignition systems, a single coil failure will only affect one cylinder (or paired cylinders in the case of waste spark DIS systems). 20406.gif On 1996 and newer vehicles, the OBD II system should detect coil problems as well as misfires and generate fault codes that identify the problem coil or cylinder. A misfire code P0301, for example, would indicate a misfire problem in cylinder #1. Of course, misfires can be caused by a lot of things. It could be a worn or fouled spark plug, a weak coil, a bad plug wire or connection in the case of a DIS or CNP system, a dirty or dead fuel injector, or a loss of compression (burned exhaust valve or leaky head gasket). Further diagnosis is always needed to isolate and identify the cause - which creates a problem on multi-coil systems that do not have spark plug wires because you can't observe the secondary ignition pattern unless you use some type of adapters or inductive pickups that fit on the coils themselves.
\ These also have ignition failure sensors that stop the spark if they sense a problem, like when you arc the cil to the block.

This is a very common problem with these vehicles they have a recall on some of them, check the hyundai web site for more info.

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ok Ed I found you again and more info , your ignition is point, unless modified style,mallory is a hi out put ignition system ,that gives great spark control,=power goes to coil and is sent to distrubiter to the points to the rotor to the plug wires to spark plugs.NOW you can get any unit of wiring but not the whole car that would take 100 of pages ,or you go and buy a SHOP REPAIR MANUAL for about 125.00 or more what you can do is type in (images of wiring diagrams 1967 mustang (motor size) (and area you need ) ) like ignition ,blower motor,head lights, and look at site ,and lastly join a mustang car club online those guys EAT AND BREATH mustangs and can lead you to all the info you could ever want . I REALLY hope this gives you what your looking for.

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Hey Billie,here's a guide to how to replace the ignition control module.Here's what it look's like.Here's the connector.Read this.

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Start and die

Go to site and register your vehicle so you can get a free wiring and fusebox diagram.

I have several things to contribute. The keyswitch has 2 terminals which supply energy to the spark system. The START side of the keyswitch and the RUN side both energize the Relays in the Powerbox.

Without knowing how long the truck runs with your problem at each start, I am estimating it could be getting power only while spinning the starter. The engine catches and then dies when the key is released to RUN position.

Looking at your wiring diagram find your power wire from the Ignition key and see if the power is coming off the ignition switch in RUN. If you have power from the Key, then you need to look at the Relays.

Check your fuel pressure to see if the Fuelpump relay kicked out or see if the Ignition relay kicked out power to the ECM. The wiring diagram should help and Fusebox diagrams are available as well.

I hope my info is helpful, please rate my info.

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1994 mustang v6 started running real rough and is now almost dieing when I press the gas I have cleaned.

Many times the plugs and wires are cancelled out with the coil pak.
change all of them, you will be glad you did.
The ignition coil pack is a crucial part of your ignition system. It's function is to convert the 12 volt power of your vehicle's electrical system in to 35,000 or more volts. This produces a high intensity spark at the spark plug which then ignites the fuel in the cylinder. Coils in general will wear out over time and cause a misfire condition. In engines like this that use a coil pack, if one coil goes bad, the complete assembly needs to be replaced. PLEZE LET ME KNOW. there isn't anything else.

  • HOLLANDER #: 610-00133
  • OE #: 919F-12029-AA

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We have no wiring diagrams here at fixya. You can gain access to the factory repair info here if you can't locate the info another way. There is a fee i am told.

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Fig. Engine Ignition, Page 03 (2002, ZETEC-VCT)

Hope helps.

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Please don't forget to a rate! Thank you:

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