Hi, is this a DIY job? I've done this many times on old British cars but never on a modern Japanese car with ABS. Any special techniques or is this a job for the professional? Approximate cost for professional, (excluding other stuff like pads, etc)?
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Re: Brake fluid replacement, 2004 Solara
The ABS shouldn't present any issues in bleeding / replacing the fluid that wouldn't be problems in a pre ABS system, HOWEVER, the consequences of not doing the job correctly (i.e.: introducing air into the system) could be considerably more troublesome AND hard to correct! So proceed with caution an make sure NOT to run the reservoir dry or back-**** air through the bleeder valve.
A vacuum bleeder would be preferred over the pedal pumping partner, just to help prevent the above probs...
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You have to remove the brake line, cap it with the cover for the bleed valve, then unbolt the caliper (two bolts), pull the caliper, remove the old pads, compress the piston back into the caliper body (i did this by hand after 135,000 miles, no sweat), then install the new pads, "spring/clip", and reinstall the caliper. I've never before had to remove a brake line and unbolt the calpier to replace brakes, and I've done ALOT of brake jobs
warniing light usually comes on, means that you have a failed wheel speed sensor but
these vehicles are common for the ABS module to fail causing the same
problem. You can back probe the wires comming out of each wheel speed
sensor with the wheel lifted in the air and check for ac voltage as you
spin the wheel.
What ever sensor does not put out voltage needs to
be replaced if they all seeem to work it is likely the ABS module. But before you replace any parts you would want to
have the ABS module checked for codes at one of your local shops that
has a high end scantool that can access those codes. If some job was make there, I suggest re-check harnesses connections and right tight.
Hope this helps and just keep in mind that your feedback is important
and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some
testimonial comment about this answer.
You will need to bleed the brake fluid again starting at the furthest wheel cylinder working your way up to the closest to the master cylinder. This way you will remove all air from the lines. Do the master cylinder last. The ABS must be done as well before the master cylinder