The clutch was working until about six months ago when I put my foot on the clutch and depressed it, it did not come back up. Transmissions and clutches are not my specialty. What is the best couse of action to repair?
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: Clutch Problem - 95 Nissan 300ZX
There should be a bleed valve for the clutch on the slave cylinder and under the hood on the passenger side on the tire well. try bleeding that. if that doesnt help i would seriously consider checking the clutch booster which looks like the brake booster connected to the top of the clutch pedal in the passenger compartment.
i have a 91 tt and had a problem with this too. my clutch booster went out and unless your extremely car savy i wouldnt attempt it. you need to pull the dash completely out just to get at it
heres a link to the booster and clutch assembly...
What it might be cause it hasnt happend on my 300zx yet but from my old truck i had to do this.... your car im asuming if its the same as my 300 is that it uses a hydrollic clutch and just like your breaks if air is getting in the tubbing at all or in the resivor then it will get in the system and make it act like that you need to find a way to bleed out the clutch and that usaly means opening a screw and pumping the clutch till all the air is out and posibly replacing if it is that air is getting in some wheres you may have to replace your resivor in the truck i just had to get a new cap becuase the ruber sealint inside had swolin so it was alowing air to get in
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It's possible the fingers on the clutch plate are worn so bad that they grab the throw out bearing not allowing it to return to it's proper position. You may need to replace your entire clutch and bearing. It would be a good time to replace the input shaft bushing in the flywheel at the same time too.
Start signal comes from the clutch engagement switch. When you press the clutch the pedal arm hits a switch and signals the motor to be able to start. Look and see if you have a little rubber piece pushed through a hole on the clutch pedal arm
Sounds like you have a leak in your clutch master or slave cylinder. I had the same problem. They are not too expensive at kragen or auto zone. The master cylinder is located on the right side of your engine closest to the driver. Open the cap and check if theres fluid. If its low or empty then there might be a leak. The slave cylinder is located on the passenger side under the car bolted to the transmission. That could be leaking or not working properly. I would replace both if you can. Hope this helps.
in order, clutch fan and pully(4nuts), radiator(optional for ease) rubber water pipes, hard water pipes on engine, timing covers (optional for ease) then unbolt the six(?) bolts holding the pump on and pull off. make sure to remove all old gasket residue before replacing with new pump and gasket
First, I am guessing the you are referring to the transmission it self as a module,.Am I correct? Your description sounds like the transmission was limited to 3rd, 4th 5th and reverse and ye had no means of getting 1st and 2nd. In having to be towed in order to get going, would indicated that if you tried to get going on your own, you would have to slip the hell out of the clutch.
One other thought which crossed my mind, is that you changed the clutch at the time you changed the transmission. If so, if the clutch disc id put in backwards, you will have a hell of a time driving the car. Especially at slow speeds. The clunk in all likely hood was the center of the disc coming apart.
The more I think about it the more I feel this is your problem.
You description is almost a classic symptom of a disc installed backwards. Let me know if my solution was correct. This room would benefit greatly from this answer.
I am new to the Fixya group, and need help getting up in the scores. Your writing in will help. GOOD LUCK
could be the slave cylinder or throw out bearing even clutch itself if replacing it anyway you should also get a kit for your slave cylinder just to be sure i dont think it would be a pedal problem and also if by chance its cable it could be a sticky or frayed cable if you need more info just ask please dont rate me until i have helped you fully