A mech. accidentally put chf7.1 in the 11s hyd. sys.. The brake booster is leaking and the fluid has turned black, most likely from the bladder in the accumulator disolving. What other parts in the brake/steering systems are damaged and what is the fix?
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Hi,if you don't see the fluid leaking anywhere externally than it is filling up the brake booster the master cylinder is attached to. look for seepage evidence under the master cylinder where it attaches to the booster. hope this helps
This is a standard Vacuum operated brake booster.. If you are having fluid leaking at the rod that attaches the brake pedal to the booster it is a bad Master Cylinder. The Brake fluid will eventually destroy the diaphram in the booster if it hasn't already. . Replace or rebuild the Master Cylinder and wash the brake fluid out of the booster. When the booster goes bad the brake pedal will become very hard to push.. because you will have lost "boost" This is not really a hard job. If fluid id leaking somewhere else.it should be very easy to spot.. Brake fluid looks like oil leaking..
It's a sealed system, so it's got to be going somewhere, leaking somewhere (or boiling off from severe braking operations over and over). Since you likely haven't experienced extreme braking, it must be leaking somewhere.
You will have to trace all your brake lines from the master cylinder to each wheel to check for any sign of leaking. Front calipers are easy to spot leaks when they leak. If you have drum brakes on the rear, you may need to pull off the drum to check the wheel brake cylinders. Peel back the rubber boot on each end of the wheel cylinder and look for any fluid leaks there. Another place to check is at the back of the master cylinder. If a seal is bad there, it has been known to leak fluid inside the car, under the dash. Feel around the carpet under and behind the brake pedal for any wetness. If you find brake fluid there, you will need the master cylinder replaced or rebuilt. Hope you find the problem. Don't forget to check the ABS system and brake lines, too.
If there is no visible leaking at the wheels around the braking assembly's, then the fluid will be leaking out he back of the blake master cylinder into the vacuum booster. The master cylinder is where you have been topping up the brake fluid and the booster is the big black thing the master cylinder is bolted to. You need to have this looked at by a mechanic for proper repair (unless you really trust someone),as brakes are something I think are important to a vehicles operation.
Just as a note, there is no need to buy a new master cylinder, as most brake places would have exchange units available.
1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.
Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!