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The vacuum hose operates the mode selector not the fan. If you lost vacuum you would have only defrost and no other settings but the fan would still work. When the fan doesn't work and you tap on the lower part of the dash board, will it begin to work again? Sometimes blower motors can be intermittent so simply hooking up power to it on a bench and seeing it spin doesn't completely rule it out as the culprit. I would check the connections at the motor, resistor pack and speed control knob. If all checks out it's probably a bad blower motor.
The power connection to the fan motor on these is known to overheat and cause a bad connection.The fan motor is above the passengers feet.Next time the fan motor will not come on, switch the selector to high and wack the bottom of the dash above the passengers feet.If the motor does come on at that time,you may need a replacement fan motor and connector.REPLACE the fan speed resistor board when replacing the fan motor,which is right behind the fan motor.
Manual temp controls, or EATC (electronic automatic temp control) ? The
manual climate control will have a blower motor resistor, and the EATC
will have a fan speed controller... Mounted in close to the same area
(depending on which system you have) only the resistor optioned would
be installed into the heat A/C plenum chamber, and the EATC fan
controller would be mounted external to the chamber.
The EATC optioned units have a fan/blower 'speed controller' (a module)
not the same as your temp control/fan selection assembly.. The blower
resistor will be mounted right next to the blower motor.. When you
remove it, look at the coils/windings and you'll see a small 'diode'
looking bullet shaped unit bridging the terminals.. That's the thermal
limiter and most times they burn out internal.. Use a test lead (or
wire) and clip it to both the in/out of the thermal unit.. You should
have all your fan speeds back.. Do replace the unit though if it proves
to be bad, and goes around $17.00 at the dealer of Auto Zone and they can give you the step by step instructions to getting the job done with common tools. Good luck and hope this helps.
hi from uk can i offer this advice ? when you start engine let it warm up a little then drive untill temp guage reads warm at least ? then when you put front screen defrost on only select screen and No 2 speed then as temp reaches normal screen will clear fully if you select full speed on heat blower to clear screen at first start it will not work because the coolant from engine passing thro the heater matrix/radiator will be rapidly cooled by fan of heater TRY IT? in years gone by it was common remedy if you were stuck in traffic and temp rose towards hot you could cool system down by putting heater on full heat and the fan on max this cooled the engines coolant as it passed thro the heater ?hope you understand how heater/fan should work for optimum efficiency my wife has owned 2 of these accents and never had heat/demist problems it is surprising how many people consider the demist/heater systems are poor on many cars not just hyundai hope this helps best wishes
#1) YOU PROBEBLY HAVE A BAD BLOWER MOTOR OR POSS. A BURNT CONNECTION @ THE MOTOR. IF THE FAN WORKS ON ALL SPEEDS EVEN INTERMITTENTLY. THEN THE BLOWER RESISTOR IS OK WICH CONTROLLS THE VOLTAGE TO THE MOTOR TO GET THE DIFFERENT SPEEDS. WHEN THE RESISTOR BURNS OUT THE FAN JUST WON'T WORK ON CERTAIN SPEEDS. THE "RELAY" IS ONLY USED FOR HI-SPEED FAN USE. TRY HITTING THE MOTOR WHEN YOU GET IT NOT TO WORK AND IF IT STARTS THN YOU HAVE A BAD MOTOR.
#2) THE NOISE YOU HEAR WHEN TURNING THE IGN. ON AND OFF IS PROBABLY THE DEFROST DOOR CONTROLL ACTUATOR/MOTOR WICH HAS A POTENTIOMETER IN IT THAT TELLS IT WHEN TO STOP MOVING AS IT REACHES THE CORRECT POSITION. WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY OFF IT BY FEDERAL LAW HAS TO RETURN TO THE DEFROST POSITION IN CASE OF FAILURE. THE LITTLE SPLINES IN THE MOTOR OR ON THE SHAFT CAN GET STRIPPED WHEN THIS HAPPENS. TRY DUPLICATING THE NOISE BY SELECTING THE DEFROST ON AND OFF WITH THE KEY ON.
I WILL CHECK FOR YOUR FEEDBACK LATER