My niece has pulled her cr-v into the garage to vacuum it out but one of the speaker wires came loose so she reconnected it. The car starts fine but it WILL NOT come out of par. It is like it is stuck in park. What could she have done or is she telling me the WHOLE story? Thanks
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Re: car will not come out of park
You must press on the brake pedal to release the shift lever. Start the car, and have someone watch the rear brake lights as you press the brake pedal. If the rear brake lights do not turn on when the brake pedal is pressed, the plug for the brake light switch is probably off. This will also keep the shift lever locked. Check around and underneath the brake pedal for any loose wires or plugs and repair as necessary. You can manually release the shifter by inserting a key or screwdriver into the shifter release slot. Check owners manual for the location of the release slot.
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Is this a standard or automatic?? If you can get under car and follow linkage back from firewall to tranny could be caught; If automatic check for loose bolts or any thing that linkage could get stuck on........ make sure it was not thrown into park; can knock wire off of tranny actuatores(switchs)
Yes parking brake will still work. It is mechanical with a wire going from pedal/handle that when pulled squeezes the brake shoes round the rotor. Just go real slow and you should be alright. Hope this helped you.
Oh Oh, better take that to a garage. When under power there is no knock but idling there is a knock? Sounds like a bearing on the crankshaft. To find out start and let it idle then disconnect and then reconnect the sparkplug wires one at a time. If the knocking stops, that cylinder is bad In any event it is bad news, rebuild or new engine
Sorry, Merry Christmas
thats problem is a loose wire you can probably fix it with a little playing around it sounds like the wire is the wire that is recieving signal to release the shifter so check see if it is loose or disconnected and if you can reconnect it if take to shop around 100 bucks to fix it maybe 150 if sensor is broke or wire cant be salvaged
Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out.
Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve. If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up. Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced.If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch.check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.). The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem. To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced. Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front. Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play. You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal. Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution
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Try disconnecting the electrical connector at the transmission and see if it stall when you put it in gear. You will get a service engine light, but not to worry, it will go back out once you reconnect.
By disconnecting the wire connector we can tell if it is transmission related.
Good luck, let me know.
Pull hard on the steering wheel to the left and the steering wheel lock mechanism should release. I mean pull hard to left because shift interlock is froze if you cannot get it this way you will need a pro to help! Good Luck Mate.