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No Spark from coil

1956 Chevy Nomad 327 small block, mallory magnetic breakerless dist., promaster coil, mallory 8 mm wires, recently rewired entire car during restoration. voltages check out ok with switch off no voltage on coil, with switch in on about 3 volts on + side of coil, when cranking voltage is ~12 volts but no spark have replaced the distributor (with new one) new promaster coil, rechecked ignition circuit wiring all per diagram. Still no spark. Pulled promaster coil from another classic car I have and put in and it started up. After shutting down it went back to no spark.

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  • StevefromTN Jun 08, 2008

    You are right it was 12 .5 volts, must of had a brain dead moment.

    if I can I will attach three diagrams of the wiring circuits (Word format)I used to wire and check.

  • Gregs 51 Jul 05, 2008

    Iam currently restoring a 1951 ford pick up . It has a big block chevy with Mallory unilite electronic ignition distributor and Mallory Promaster coil. The problem I am having is no spark. When the ignition switch is in the on position and the distributor harness (3 wires) is unplugged from distributor to coil, I get 12 volts to the ballast resistor and 12 volts coming out of the ballast resistor to the coil. I also get 12 volts at the negative side of the coil. When the distributor harness is reconnected to the coil, I get 5 volts at the positive side of coil and 1 at the negative side. Also the Ballst resistor gets real hot. I have already replaced the ignition module in the distributor, and I am still having the same problem. Please help, I am getting frustrated.

  • jsullivan18 Jan 03, 2009

    Ihave the same problem but even if Itake the ballast resetior out of the circuit Ionly have about 2.5 volts with the module plugged up but if I unplug the module volts goes to 12 volts

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I have problem with coil not working. In the morning,car with not start, but if I run a wire from battery to (+) to coil (+) will start. the rest of day no problem,car will start. but next morning same problem no spark from coil. c

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

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I don't beleve 3 volt is enaf for the coil it has to be at least 9 volts
if this car has a resistor on the car or on the circuit going from ignition switch to ignition coil replace it, but if it does not have one then it has to have one built in the circuit wish is going to be very hard to find i will recomed you to get straight ignition power from ignition sw, to an aftermarket ignition resistor and from there to the positive side of ignition coil,
but also let me know what promaster means? is that the brand? or is that a performance coil?
and does your car has elecgtronic? or points system ignition distribuitor.

Posted on Jun 08, 2008

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1977 c10 is not getting fire at all it turns over but won't crank


This is probably an old ignition system so tracing where power is, and isn't would be my approach.
- Spark at a plug lead?
- Is there a separate coil or is it a breakerless distributor with the coil ol top.
- If there is a coil, pull lead at distributor end, remove distrubutor cap, and manually open and close points (if there). may need new points and condensor OR
- If breakerless, sometimes the wires to the transistor will break and there will be no spark.
Here's a great link if you're into the technology.
http://www.breakerless.com/igntionfacts.htm
Cheers

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What do you remove to have access to spark plugs


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Where does the number 1 plug wire go on the dist cap for a 87 chevy van with an hei system


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You have spark on the coil wire but not coming from the cap. You replaced the cap right. Did you replace the rotor too. Sometimes the rotor burn in the center and the spark goes right thru it in to the distributor shaft.

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Wow, a reply about an Australian based engine. I'm thinking since there is no reply that he just may have a US based engine just posted the wrong size. in which case this might help.
Here is a website with the American Version of Chevy info


1.8.4.3.6.5.7.2 distributor rotation clockwise

http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm


Great Stocking Stuffer for a Gearhead!
Small Block Chevy V8
267, 305, 327, 350, 400 cid.
Firing Order
v8_18436572.gif Cylinder Numbering Distributor Rotation gm_cyln_1357.gif v8_dist_ro_c.gif Rotor Under Cap Spins:
Clockwise

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3 Answers

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Let's cover some safety concerns first. If you try to troubleshoot a mixed up firing order with the engine running, you could be in for a serious shock,.. literally. You can do it, with certain precautions, but you really don't need to check the firing order with the engine running. You definitely don't want to try checking the firing order if you are wearing any kind of pacemaker or sensitive electromechanical prosthesis. The voltage coming out of the ignition coil is in the thousands. Common sense dictates that you wouldn't stick a knife in an electrical outlet, so you wouldn't want to take chances with being shocked by the electrical discharge from your classic chevy's ignition coil either. See the diagram:


5d6424a.png

The firing order, which should be cast into the intake manifold, for the chevy small block V8 is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The firing order is the numerical sequence in which the spark plugs are fired. The insertion position of each spark plug wire around the circumference of the distributor cap can be found according to a clock face. The insertion sequence determines the firing order. The firing order is followed clockwise around the distributor cap starting from the 6:30 position with the 6:30 position being the number one cylinder spark plug wire.

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Additional details HERE.

Hope helps (remmeber rated this).

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1 Answer

I have no spark at the plugs when cranking the engine.


could be a bad pickup coil in distributor or a bad ignition module
hold dist. end of coil wire near like 1/8 inch away from engine block. turn key on ond off while watching for a spark. if you see one then i would try a pickup coil first
also make sure dist turns when you crank it

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