When turning sharp after a 15 to 20 minute drive on the highway the vehicle feels like the front wheels want to lock up but then u here a crank noise. i don't know what it is. please someone help thanks
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When you put the vehicle in drive with your foot on the brake, and you hear a clunk. You may have a bad CV joint or axle. If not it may be a bad wheel bearing. Those would be the first two I'd Check. Outside of that sometimes poor wheel balancing or a tire belt separation. Either way it should be looked at before you hit 75+ mph. I had a Honda that I had just got off the highway with my wife and 3 month old daughter in the car. On a side street pulling away from a stop sign. The right CV shaft let go and dropped the wheel on the ground. There wasn't as much as a shimmy or a groan prior to that. If we had stayed on the highway another five minutes, I can only imagine. Please check it out for your own safety.
Grinding on acceleration, rhythmic thump on the highway... might be a bad u-joint in a CV shaft or rear drive shaft. Put the transmission in neutral, put blocks in front of the front wheels jack up the back end of the vehicle and put jackstands under the frame (do not rely on the jack alone to hold it up!). Turn the rear wheels by hand while listening and feeling for slop or roughness. Crawl under the vehicle and check for play in the drive shaft bearings, then rotate the drive shaft by hand to check for rough bearings in the u-joints. Inspect the fender wells and suspension linkage for foreign objects that may be rubbing or bumping on the wheels. Inspect the tires for uneven wear, incipient blowouts (blisters) or other problems. If you don't find anything in the rear end, lower the vehicle, block the rear wheels, jack up the front, and repeat the check on the front wheels. Check your transmission fluid as directed in the owner's manual. It should be at the proper level and clean, with no burned odor. If there is a problem with the transmission fluid, the noise could be coming from the transmission.
It sounds like you are driving in 4wd drive on dry pavement. The front drive axles do not work like the rear differential. When you turn, the outside front wheel must travel farther than the inside wheel, therefore they are traveling through the turn at differentspeeds. If you are on dry pavement, this causes the gears to bind. You don't notice this on slick surfaces because the outside wheel will slip instead of bind up the gears. You should not use 4wd on dry pavement. That's the advantage of push button, or shift on the fly, 4wd. You can shift back to 2wd when you encounter dry pavement. All wheel drive vehicles don't have this problem because they have a limited slip front differential as opposed to a locking differential on 4wd. Hope I didn;t confuse you too much.
Take the plug out of the side of the transfer case. Fill with recommended fluid until it starts to run out of the hole. Put plug back in and tighten.
As for the drive problem. You need to take it to a transmission specialist. The dealer is a good place or you can find a reputable transmission shop in your town too.
Jack up the front end and put stands under it and block rear wheels. Look at axle boots and see if they are cracked. Try turning wheel back and forth sharply and see if you can hear any clicking. Problem could be outer axle joints. If the boots are cracked or you hear a clicking noise you will have to replace the axle. The axle and boot come as a complete unit. Please let me know what you find out.
This sounds like a major problem. I had the same issue with a different truck. I will tell you in all honesty that the front-end is blown. The noise will continue to get worse. Soon it will occur driving in a straight line. The carrier bearings are symptomatic of failure. Its safe to drive on for a while, but in the long run you can eventually snap the front end. But before you go on rebuilding or selling the vehicle drain the fluid and replace with new and see if the problem goes away after driving 8-15 times in a flat parking lot doing figure-eights.