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sound like the cyl. head gasket has gone . but its worth checking the inlet manifold gasket as there is a coolant port on end of the gasket and coolant can be drawn in to the that way if its the head gasket.there is a head gasket kit you can buy that cures this completley but it means removing the sump and changing the oil rail to prevent the clamping load changing with eng. temp .
plug gap 25 th ,too wider gap and it will be hard starting from cold ,as for idle then this could be a vacumn hose perished or not reconnected when head gasket changed ,or a vacumn pipe has been damaged whilst changing the head gasket follow then all back even the best of us inadvertantly damage things or drop a bolt somewhere that always rattles afterwards
Get a Haynes or Chilton's Manual on your vehicle so you have the correct sequence for removing the head bolts and for putting them back. While you have the heads off and the timing chain loose replace the timing chain and make sure you have the heads resurfaced and valves adjusted. Might as well do all of this at once so you don't have to worry about it doing it in 10k to 20k.
To change the freeze plug.
Use a flat bottom punch to drive in one side of the plug. The plug should twist in the opening, grab the with a pair of vise grips or channel locks and pry it out of the block or head.
To install the need freeze plug. You'll need something to drive it in straight all at the same time, a large dowel, an inverted socket on an extention, ect...
Apply an even bead of hard setting gasket sealer around the edge of the plug then gently drive it in until the plug edge is just below the outer surface of the block or head. Wait 24 hours before adding fluid for the gasket sealer to set and your all done changing the plug.
hi, if you are changing the head gasket then it may be worth checking the water pump and thermostat as it could have been one of these that failed causing it to over heat and then blown the head gasket so check the water pump and thermostat once you have the cylinder head off.
You may need the head checking to see if it has been warped but this is unlikely on this make of vehicle.
Once you have done the gasket make sure that when you fill the coolant up you only trickle the water in to prevent any air lock as this will cause it to over heat again, check for any bleed screws on the coolant system to let the air out whilst filling the coolant up,
Its best you check in the workshop manual for these as their may not be none as it could be self bleed system.
It also worth checking if the head bolts need changing as they do stretch and can cause the gasket not to seal properly so replacing these may be a good idea.
Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok.
ps what makes you think the head gasket has gone??
Hi ...i suggest changing your head gaskets ...it will come in a complete kit ....do it all ....just looking at a gasket ..some times it hard to tell .....once you take the heads off always change the gaskets ...never will properly seal again ....
TO CHANGE A HEAD GASKET IS SKILL LEVEL B MEANING YOU MUST HAVE BASIC KNOWLEDGE OF COMPLEX SYSTEMS.ITS A HARD JOB IF ITS YOUR FIRST TIME.THIS IS A DEALERSHIP JOB BECAUSE MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDS THAT THE ENTIRE POWERTRAIN BE REMOVED FROM THE VECHICLE.BEFORE REMOVING THE CYLINDER HEADS.
Sounds like the timing is off. Re-check your timing marks. If it has a timing belt it may be a few teeth of and getting no compression. Why did you need to replace the head gasket? If you overheated the motor it may have cracked the head causing a weird noise, but I would start with the timing first. That is the cheapest test.