RADIATOR COOLANT BOILS OVER... TEMPERATURE GAGE RUNS INTO HOT ZONE @ IDLE... WHEN RPMS ARE 3000 AND UP... THE TEMP GAGE READS IN THE MIDDLE OF TEMP GAGE... I FLUSHED COOLANT SYSTEM THOROUGHLY AND REPLACE ANTIFREEZE, REPLACED THERMOSTAT... STILL IS PROBLEM... WHAT ARE THE NEXT STEPS?
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check coolant level could be too low allowing air in the cooling system causing air pocket in engine around the engine coolant sensor.coolant sensor needs to be in hot coolant so it will cause the cooling fan to come on at a set temperature.make sure coolant correct level and the coolant level in the cooling overflow jug should be at full cold mark.the cooling overflow jug should never be empty,if you see empty cooling overflow jug air got in the cooling system so make sure when engine cold every time raise hood make sure cooling overflow jug coolant level at full cold mark.if jug stay empty you have cooling leak.so replace radiator cap,if coolant level all good,i would replace the engine coolant temperature and thermostat.when your car come to a long stop or driving along long line of slow moving traffic the engine coolant blower motor should running if not have vechicle code scan for faulty coolant fan motor control module.or ecm problems.
replace thermostat.then bleed coolant system, this is how you do it.fill the cooling coolant system with 50 / 50 dexcool and water to raise boiling point,straight water will evaporate boil away cause engine to overheat catch fire thats why you need 50 / 50 mixture antifreeze and water.to bleed coolant system first fill coolant system until coolant stay at the full cold mark on the the coolant overflow jug,then you start engine allow it to idle,place the heater and ac control in any ac setting except max and the temperature control to the highest setting,run engine until lower hose to water pump is hot. with the engine hot run the engine speed up to 3000 rpm and allow it return to idle, repeat this 5 times. slowly open the bleed valve on the thermostat housing or look for bleed valve at the water pump heater hose.open bleed valve for 15 seconds to expel any trapped air.then top off the coolant as necessary,and when top radiator hose hot thermostat open up.keep adding cooling to overflow until coolant level stop at full cold mark dont over fill coolant.if engine seem like overheating while looking at cooling gauge turn off engine wait a while until cool off add more coolant until coolant level stay stable and dont drop any.when open radiator overflow cap use large rag over the radiator cap to keep from getting scald open radiator cap a little at a time but dont open radiator cap until engine cool down first.replace the radiator overflow cap, thermostat,and engine coolant temperature sensor and check the cooling fans fuses and relays see what happens.
you need to replace thermostat and radiator cap.look under hood around engine compartment.look for a radiator cap near radiator,add 50/50 antifreeze and water to coolant system to bring up boiling point.pure water will cause engine run hotter because water evaporate away,remove radiator pour coolant in the radiator until coolant stop dropping in the radiator now some vechicle pour coolant in the coolant overflow jug,pour coolant until coolant level stop dropping and the coolant level stay at cold full mark.start engie let idle few minutes, watch coolant level in radiator if coolant start dropping add more coolant, when coolant level stop dropping put radiator cap back on let engine idle until both top radaitor hose and bottom coolant hose get warm turn off engine wait until it get cool then take a large rag slightly open radiator just a litle at a time to keep from getting scaled.once radiator remove add more coolant if low,put radiator cap back on start the engine let it idle watch the temp gauge if temperature gauge going hot zone stop engine wait until cool then add more coolant,keep doing this until engine stop overheating going into hot zone and coolant level stop dropping,make the coolant overflow jug coolant level stay at full cold mark, dont let jug run empty if so air will get in the coolant system causing engine to overheat.
ADD COOLANT IN THE COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING AND COOLANT LEVEL STAY AT THE FULL COLD MARK.PLACE COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG CAP BACK ON JUG.CRANK VECHICLE UNTIL ENGINE START WARMING UP. STOP ENGINE WAIT FOR A WHILE UNTIL COOLANT COOL DOWN TO KEEP FROM GETTING SCALDED. USE A LARGE RAG OVER THE OVERFLOW JUG CAP OPEN OVERFLOW JUG CAP A LITTLE AT A TIME REMOVE OVERJUG CAP CHECK COOLANT LEVEL ADD MORE. COOLANT IN THE OVERFLOW JUG.THEN START VECHICLE AGAIN.LET ENGINE IDLE UNTIL TOP RADIATOR GET HOT.THEN THERMOSTAT WILL BE OPEN.WHILE ENGINE IDLING WATCH THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE IN VECHICLE IF TEMPERATURE GAUGE START CLIMBING IN THE HOT ZONE.TURN OFF VECHICLE LET IT SET A WHILE THEN USE LARGE RAG REMOVE OVERFLOW JUG CAP.ADD MORE COOLANT, PLACE CAP BACK ON START VECHICLE AGAIN KEEP DOING THIS PROCEDURE UNTIL TEMPERATURE STOP CLIMBING HOT ZONE.AND WHEN COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING IN THE COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG.AIR IS OUT THE SYSTEM, BUT KEEP COOLANT LEVEL IN THE COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG AT THE FULL COLD MARK.DONT OVERFILL.DONT LET COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG RUN DRY IF SO AIR WILL ENTER COOLANT SYSTEM BECAUSE COOLANT LEVEL WILL BE LOW ENGINE WILL START OVERHEATING.
Sounds like your cooling fans on the radiator are not working. The fans are activated by a thermol switch on the engine or radiator reading the coolant temperature and an A/C switch. When the coolant is too hot the fans should activate cooling the system down. And, when the A/C is on the fans should also activate in order to cool the condensate so the A/C would work.
When you are driving, the movement of the vehicle throught he air is providing enough air flow to keep things cool and functional.
I would check the radiator fan fuse or fuses first. If those are OK I would try to run the fans with 12 volts and a ground that I supply just to see if the fan motor(s) actually run when powered. If the fan don't run when powered then the fans are bad and will need to be replaced. If the fans do run when you power them manually, then something is not allowing the power to activate, like a relay, control unit, or wiring.
It will take a little diagnostics, but it is not too difficult to chase it down.
YOU NEED BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.CHECK COOLANT LEVEL IN RADIATOR.ADD MORE DEXCOOL UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL IS CLOSE TO RADIATOR SPOUT.CRANK ENGINE LET IDLE UNTIL TOP RADIATOR HOSE GET HOT.WATCH TEMPERATURE GAUGE.IF TEMPERATURE GAUGE START RISING TO HOT ZONE.TURN OFF ENGINE.LET COOL DOWN.USE LARGE RAG SLOWLY OPEN RADIATOR CAP A LITTLE AT A TIME UNTIL ALL PRESSURE RELIEVED.REMOVE RADIATOR CAP.ADD MORE COOLANT.CRANK CAR AGAIN LET IDLE UNTIL TOP RADIATOR GET HOT.KEEP EYE ON TEMP.GAUGE ALSO.WHEN TEMP.GAUGE STOP CLIMBING.YOUR COOLANT SYSTEM BLED.WHEN DONE LET CAR SET A WHILE CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.ALSO FIRST THING IN THE MORNING CHECK COOLANT LEVEL AGAIN.AND BESURE ADD COOLANT IN THE OVERFLOW JUG TO THE COLD MARK.DONT OVER FILL THE COOLANT RESERVOIR JUG.WORK SAFELY DONT GET SCALDED.
I had a similar problem. Replaced head gasket, but low coolant light stayed on. My problem was air in the system. A flush and fill kit may work, however, I had a local shop do a "flush and fill" and the problem remained. What I did... With vehicle running, and radiator cap off, bring engine to operating temperature. Increase rpms slightly above idle until coolant can be seen moving in radiator (thermostat open). Add small amounts of coolant, keeping the radiator level just below overflow hole in cap area. In my case, after about 15 minutes at slightly above idle rpms, a large pocket of air escaped. I topped off radiator, installed cap, and let engine cool. Problem has not returned in last six months. *Note coolant is VERY HOT, and if rpms fluctuate, coolant will expel quickly from radiator. Also, when the air pocket escaped, coolant also sprays out. Use caution to avoid being burned.
CHECK COOLANT LEVEL STILL LOW.ADD MORE COOLANT.UNTIL RADIATOR OVERFLOW FULL AT COLD MARK.THEN CRANK ENGINE UP LET IDLE FEW MINUTES LOOK DOWN COOLANT OVER FLOW JUG ADD MORE COOLANT IF LEVEL DROPPED.WHILE ENGINE RUNNING KEEP EYE ON TEMPERATURE GAUGE.WHEN THERMOSTAT HOSE GET HOT.TURN OFF ENGINE WAIT A LITTLE WHILE TO KEEP FROM GETTING SCALD TAKE LARGE RAG PLACE OVER OVERFLOW JUG RADIATOR CAP.OPEN CAP A LITTLE A TIME.IF COOLANT TRIES BOIL OUT.LET VECHICLE SET A WHILE LONGER.ADD MORE COOLANT.WHEN COOLANT LEVEL CORRECT AND ALL AIR OUT THE COOLANT SYSTEM.IT WILL STOP OVERHEATING.LONG AS ENGINE RUNNING HOT TURN OFF THE ENGINE POUR IN MORE COOLANT UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING IN RADIATOR.KEEP COOLANT LEVEL IN OVERFLOW AT COLD MARK.DONT OVER FILL OVERFLOW JUG.
You probably need to bleed the cooling system properly.
Open the cooling system bleeder screws.
Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture until coolant runs freely out of bleeder screws. Close the cooling system bleeder screws Install the coolant pressure cap Start the engine. Run the engine at 2,000 - 2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. (midway on gauge) Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes. Shut the engine off. Allow the engine to completely cool. Top off the coolant as necessary.
Run engine again at 2000 - 2500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
Allow engine to idle until cooling fans come on. It should come on with the gauge about 3/4 of the way to red. - if it gets to where is touches the red, shut down immediately.
When the fan comes on, put your hand behind the fan and observe the temperature of the air coming from the fan. It should feel hot. If it is blowing cold air, the coolant is not circulating through the radiator like it should. This could be caused by lots of things including an improper/defective thermostat, corroded water pump impeller, or a blown head gasket.
Refill the coolant system reservoir when cold. Ensure the cap has a good seal and is tightened down properly With the hood raised, restart and allow the engine to idle until running temperature.
1) No agitation should be seen in the reservoir water, certainly no stream of bubbles or violent movement. If there are violent signs then this points to a blown head gasket.
2) The top rubber hose from the engine to the radiator at some point should become hot. Keeping checking the temperature gauge from time to time to see if the temperature is rising. If there is no temperature gauge response then there is something wrong with the gauge circuitry.
3) at some point here the fan (if electric or clutch operated should become engaged. If the electric fan never comes on either the temperature sensor is faulty, the fan fuse or solenoid relay are not functional or the fan motor is blown.
4) Within a few more minutes the lower hose exiting from radiator to the engine should also become hot. If these two events happen then your pump is circulating the water and the thermostat is functioning.If the top hose does not become hot you need to check your thermostat. If the top hose does become hot but the bottom one does not, even after quite a while, then either the pump is a fault or there is blockage; maybe due to sludge in the radiator core or pipes.
To check the thermostat simply remove it and drop it into a pan of boiling water. Immediately you should see the thermostat pop open. Take the pan of water off the heat and watch the thermostat. After about five minutes when the water has begum to cool the thermostat should pop closed again. These events are not subtle so if they are not seen it is likely that a new thermostat will be needed.
In the event the system is blocked simply remove coolant hoses and use a high pressure hose to flush the radiator and system clear of sludge.
If there is air trapped in the system try putting the interior heater on to full to help flush them out. In an emergency putting on the interior heater can assist the main engine cooling.