Question about 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

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Clutch Need to find location of drain nipple for cluth fluid. Just bought it and looks like it needs a change. 96 Grand Am SE.

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There is a bulletin for it. Bulletin No.: 01-07-31-002B
Date: November 01, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject:
Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System
Models:
2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
2007 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2007 and Prior Isuzu F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.
Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
Remove the reservoir cap.
Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.
Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.
Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.
Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.
The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.
Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
Add additional fluid if needed.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.

Posted on Jun 08, 2008

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You need to connect the pressure bleeder to the brake master cylinder resrvoir,then bleed the clutch through from the nipple on the slave cylinder.If the nipple is not of the unscrewable type,you need to release the pipe from it's clip where the nipple is and then this will allow the air to escape and you end up with fluid with no air bubbles in it coming out of the nipple.If the nipple is of the more normal type,you need to follow the same procedure,you just undo the nipple half a turn and this will have the same effect.

It's best to connect a piece of small pipe with a container to collect the fluid in on to the nipple as you could contaminate the clutch plate with the waste fluid,and if your using a pressure bleeder it will save you getting squirted with brake fluid when you release the nipple!.

If you have someone else that can help you,don't use the pressure bleeder and just get the person to sit in the car and work the clutch pedal up and down whilst you open and close the bleed nipple.You follow the procedure,clutch pushed down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up,clutch pedal down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up and so on a so forth until no more air comes out and you have a steady stream of fluid.

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Hi: Your slave cylinder works like the master cylinder, it has a resevior for fluid and needs to be bleed free from air.

If you're not planning to remove the slave cylinder, I found it easier to use a set of ramps under the front wheels and work under the vehicle rather than jacking it up and taking off the front wheels. Put one end of the plastic tubing on the end of the nipple, the other in the empty jar.
When you have reassembled the clutch hydraulics, refill the clutch fluid reservoir, make sure the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder is tightly closed. Now, with the piece of wood within reach, slowly depress the clutch pedal with your hand and hold it down while you prop the wood against it, wedging the other end against the bolt that holds down the left front of the driver’s seat. Next, open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. You may see some fluid, or just a puff of air, or perhaps some of both in the form of bubbles. In any event, close the nipple tightly again. On your way back to the clutch pedal, check the fluid reservoir and top off as necessary. Hold the clutch pedal down with your hand as you remove the wood brace, then slowly release the pedal. When it is all the way up, press it down again slowly and reinsert the wood. Open and close the bleed nipple again. Repeat the entire process as many times as needed until you see a solid stream of clear brake fluid coming from the nipple with no air bubbles. Be sure to close the nipple tightly each time to avoid sucking air back into the system when you release the clutch pedal. And don’t forget to check the fluid reservoir each time.
Check the clutch pedal with your foot to see if you have normal pressure. If it seems okay start the vehicle and put it in gear (reverse if you’ve got it up on ramps). Now take it around the block and roadtest it. If all is not right, you’ve still got air in the system and will have to bleed it some more. Re-check the fluid reservoir again after a few hours—you may find that you need to top off the reservoir one last time.
Note: When I did mine, I had let the system drain so I could flush out dirty fluid. The first couple of times I opened the bleed nipple, therefore, I pumped the clutch pedal three times in order to make the process go a little faster, because I knew that the first couple of times all I’d be doing was compressing air.
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