Tailgate stuck, closed on right -not latched on the left
The tailgate was inconsistent in opening in either position-swing or tailgate- from the tailgate position i shut it but it didn't latch on the left and now is stuck, the window won't go up and it won't open.
dealers -2- scratch their heads, gmc has not replied.
anyone know how to handle this????
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The endgate uses an electrical latch system. The latch system contains 3 separate electrical latches that are located on the upper left corner, upper right corner, and lower left corner of the endgate. The latches latch when battery voltage is removed. The latches will unlatch, or release when battery voltage is applied. The latches work in conjunction with a dual pivoting hinge located on the lower right corner of the endgate to allow the endgate to swing open from the left to right for access and cargo loading, or to drop to extend cargo space.
Do you know what diagnostic trouble code's are ? An electronic control module controls the unlocking of the tail gate an when problems like not opening happen ,DTC'S set in the endgate module ,pointing to the problem . Need sophisticated diagnostic tool to check it .
The endgate control module supplies voltage for the endgate latch relay coil control circuit to the endgate latch relay. This output is used to energize the endgate latch relay when an endgate swing latch or drop latch request has been made. If the endgate module detects an open or short to ground on the endgate latch relay coil control circuit when a swing latch or drop latch request is made, a DTC is set.
Remove the endgate latch relay.
Connect a test lamp between the endgate latch relay coil control circuit of the endgate latch relay connector and a good ground.
Install a scan tool.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
With a scan tool, command the endgate module to swing endgate.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
The endgate module monitors the lower left endgate latch actuator and upper right endgate latch actuator circuits. When the endgate module detects an open or short to ground on the lower left endgate latch actuator and upper right endgate latch actuator circuits, a DTC is set.
You could try replacing the endgate latch relay . Do you know what a relay is ? Video's on youtube showing how they work an how to test . The only thing is , the relay is inside the endgate ,need to take trim panel off .Video's on youtube for that too , probably .
May have been packed too tight, or something shifted as door was closing and became lodged in either the locking mechanism or the side supporting latched to the left and right lower edges of the door. Try applying some pressure to the outside of the door while turning the key. If you are trying to use the Key fob to open, the stuck position will not allow lock to disengage at all. If that does not work, have someone crawl inside and push while someone outside turns the key.
Silly question but, I need to ask, what is the temp. outside? There is also the very real possibility that, the door seal itself has been frozen to the painted mating surface along the jamb of the door. You would need to park in above freezing temp (full sun will work sometimes) if this does work, get some silicone sprayed on a rag (fairly wet) and wipe down the painted mating surface where the seal meets the jamb. Good luck
You'll have to get the trim piece that goes around the latch off. It just snaps off. If you push up on the bottom while you're pulling out on it the retainers should disengage. Push down on the top while pulling out should allow you to remove it. If you look in the tailgate under the latch you should see two rods one going left and one going right. They are held on the latch with plastic clips. The clip for the right rod is probably broke and the rod disconnected. Assuming that is the case you can lift up on the latch to release the left side while reaching a finger in under the latch to push the right rod left. This should allow you to open the tailgate. Once it's open you can remove three bolts on the inside of the tailgate and diconnect the left rod allowing you to remove the latch. I was told by a GM parts guy that those clips are only available with the complete latch. I found one at a parts store (Carquest) that I could make work. The GM dealer had a similar clip but I couldn't make it work plus the clip was over $5 wholesale. Hopefully that will work for you.
I am not quite sure, but on the sides of the tailgate, where it locks, can't you push the mechanism back? I think you can. It either turns them from latch to open. You can try this. See if you can push it into lock mode.
Hello. Yes that is exactly what you need to do. Once the screws are out you can pull the handle assembly out just enough to disconnect it from the latch release rods. Not too far, you don't want to bend the rods.Those little connectors you see just unsnap from the rods, then they swing away so you can pull the rod out of where it connects to the handle mechanism. Have a piece of wire handy to hook the rod so it doesn't fall out of reach, but even if it does it won't go far. I'm enclosing a picture of a typical "swing away" connector so you can see how it unsnaps from the rod. I think yours will be green and blue, so remember which is which, one goes on the right and one on the left
Remove the molding ring from around the handle. Becareful not to break the taps that lock it in. After removing the molding you should see the handle mechanism. There is a rod coming in from each side (each one runs out the the actual latch). Make sure each rod is connected into the handle assembly. If it is not put the rod into the hole and find the retainer clip to keep it in place.
I had the same problem. I figure that dirt/rust may have accumulated inside the latching mechanism. I was able to fix it using the following steps.
1 - Remove the plastic cap that covers the top of the gate.
2 - Remove as many of the remaining torx bolts from the inside cover (you will need to do this to get inside the gate).
3 - Next, try and get some WD40 on/in the latch mechanism.
4 - Using a large screwdriver, you will need to pry the lever attached to the cable in order to release the latch.
Not a pretty process but it seemed to work. I give the latches a good lubrication frequently now, until I get around to replacing them.
latches for this are on the sides. The are connected by the handle in the middle of the gate. Latches are either stuck open (dry or frozen open) or stuck closed and you are banging on them when trying to close and "latch" gate. Get a screwdriver and while pulling up on tailgate handle make sure latches(on gate) are open to engage "striker bolt". If they are spray them liberally with WD40 or silicone SPRAY. latch and open several times to let lubricant attack rusted area on mechanism.
If latches won't open they may be stuck closed and won't open because cable going from middle handle to that side or both sides is disconnected. Does tailgate have star shaped bolts on "inside-bed-when-closed" side? If so you will need to spray these with WD40 and let set then get a star torques bit and remove them to access middle handle actuator.
I have a 2002 Chevy 3500 and the same thing happened to me. It turns out the latching mechanism on the left side would not release when I pulled on the latch handle. I stuck a small screwdriver in there to release the latch handle (as I pulled on the latch handle) and it popped open. I then squirted some WD-40 on that latch mechanism because it was hung up. I didn't have any problems after that.