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Re: Crank shaft movement
Did you check the pulley on the crank shaft ??
is it warped ?? ( bent )
because i do not think that the truck will run with the crankshaft moving.....back and forth.
so in any case you have a lot of work to do.
here is how to remove the crank shaft. REMOVAL
Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seals.
Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil seal.
Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine oil.
Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
Apply 5 mm (0.20 inch) drop of Loctite 518, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT over apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application.
lb align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than 2 times for proper engagement.
Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately tighten to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing. Apply enough sealant until a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
Immediately install the oil Dan.
if you have an email address i can send some images
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Hi John on most cars there is a free running pully on the Altenator it should free wheel back wards and turn alt shaft when going forward. These usually seize up and cause a vibration in the belt like you have described. While you are checking this check all other pulleys for alingment. And also the crank pully some have rubber mount which also fails if this is this case you will see movement between the outer rim of the pully and the inner. Hope this helps. Regards Jim...
Mr. CORNEL, according to what you have said, one thing is possible,with oil level ok,battery good, means that the problem you face is that the Oil Pressure Pump lost the pressure strength and cause the Crank shaft as not enough Oil to get lubricated sufficiently,cause the crank and rod bearings to seized on the crank shaft and that's why you do have hard turnings. In other words the engine seized and must call you mechanic to help and advise. The Red Light blinking before was the warning to that something was wrong with the oil pressure.
Have you ever replaced the timing belt?? If not the problem is likely to be a loose worn out timing belt. A floppy belt will play havoc with the sensor signals and trigger a check engine light and a camshaft sensor code.
unfortunately you have to replace it as it is a weight that valances the crank shaft if push in and is not in the right position it may cause more damage in high rpm like vibrate or even brake the crank shaft you will need a harmonic valance puller to remove please let me know if this helped if you need further assistance i'll be glad to help.
Has the service engine light come on? If so, have the codes pulled and it will narrow down the cylinder that is causing the problem. If no service engine light, have you narrowed it down to one cylinder or is it random. Let me know and we will go from there. Regards,