Question about 1995 Lincoln Town Car

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95 tc has engine light on and is using some coolant weekly. What is the most likely cause of leakage?

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  • landyacht_tc Oct 24, 2010

    have done that codes not dependable on early 95,s ... Auto zone does not check lincolns that are not 96 or newer.

  • landyacht_tc Oct 24, 2010

    no over heqating, no smoke that I can see, did have amisfire condition for a while, but it seems to have corrected itself.

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Hi,

Did you scan the car for the error codes?

Did you see any leakage?

Do you see the car being overheat while in traffic?

Is there any strange odor or smoke?


There could be plenty of problems that could cause this.The first thing that you need to do is to take the car to the autozone. They would scan your car for FREE. Once scanned, print the codes and that would tell you the exact cause. It could be a problem with heater core or it could be a gasket problem. However, you need to have the car scanned before you start diagnosing the car.Once you scanned the car, revert with codes so that i could provide you few pointers.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Oct 24, 2010

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Oct 24, 2010

    Thanks for your response!!

    Did you see any leakage?

    Do you see the car being overheat while in traffic?

    Is there any strange odor or smoke?

    Let me know,so that we could proceed.

    Hope i helped you.

    Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Oct 24, 2010

    Thanks for your response!!

    If you are going through coolant with no leas then your headgasket is
    allowing fluid to go in the combustion chamber causing it to burn out
    the exhaust unless you have a slow external leak you have not noticed.
    You an get a cooling system pressurizer from your local parts store and
    pressurize the system to watch for external leaks or pull a spark plug
    and look for coolant leaking into the combustion chambers.

    As long as there is no overheating problem, you wouldn't have to worry a lot.You may also want to inspect the oil to see if its getting milky/watery
    if so this means coolant is getting into the oil and you would want to
    replace the oil before it gets too bad.

    Let me know,if needed further assistance.

    Hope i helped you.

    Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!



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Things to test when checking cooling system


<p>A leak detection additive is available through the parts department that can be added to cooling system. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet light (black light) (1). Pour one ounce of additive into cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT position. Start and operate engine until the radiator upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially available black light tool at components to be checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause the additive to glow a bright green color.<br /> <p>The black light can be used in conjunction with a pressure tester to determine if any external leaks exist .<br /> <p><b>PRESSURE TESTER METHOD</b><br />he engine should be at normal operating temperature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant loss is not located during the warm engine examination. <br /> WARNING <p> HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.<br /> <p>Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from the filler neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to disengage it from the stop tabs. Wipe the inside of filler neck and examine the lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.<br /> <p>Inspect cams on the outside of filler neck. If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap valve and tester seal will be affected.<br /> <p>Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to radiator filler neck (1).<br /> <p>Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi) pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or bulge while testing, replace as necessary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the condition of the cooling system according to the following criteria:<br /> <p><b>Holds Steady:</b> If the pointer remains steady for two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in system. However, there could be an internal leak that does not appear with normal system test pressure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to <a>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</a>.<br /> <p><b>Drops Slowly:</b> Indicates a small leak or seepage is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak holes and inspect system again with pressure applied.<br /> <p><b>Drops Quickly:</b> Indicates that serious leakage is occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a reputable radiator repair shop.<br /> <a></a> <p><b>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</b><br /> <p>Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a short period to churn the oil. After this is done, remove engine dipstick and inspect for water globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for water globules and the transmission fluid cooler for leakage.<br /> <br /> WARNING <p> WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 KPA (21 PSI). PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE, ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.<br /> <p>Operate the engine without the pressure cap on the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair as necessary.<br /> <p>If there is not an immediate pressure increase, pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi). Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or combustion leakage into cooling system.<br /> <p>Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter, <b>do not</b> remove spark plug cables or short out cylinders to isolate compression leak.<br /> <p>If the needle on the dial of pressure tester does not fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gasket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.<br /> <p>A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into cooling system is provided by a commercially available Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers instructions when using this product.<br /> <p><b>COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT PRESSURE TESTER</b><br /> <p>DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.<br /> <br /> WARNING <p> DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.<br /> <p>Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat removal(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Remove accessory drive belt or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).<br /> <p>Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.<br /> <br /> CAUTION <p> Avoid overheating. Do not operate engine for an excessive period of time. Open draincock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.<br /> <p>Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If internal engine combustion gases are leaking into cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bubbles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage is not present.

on Jan 20, 2011 | Subaru Legacy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I Have a Mitsubishi nativa 2006 model last week i bought used one, yesterday night when i drive suddenly my car is full heat i stop my car and open the cover so i found there water is leakage over the...


I do not understand what your problem is so i will try to see if i can tell you what i think you are saying, the car is leaking coolant from the radiator, if this is correct then replace radiator. or is the coolant spilling out because engine temp is overheating , if the engine is overheating this will cause the ac system not to cool down and make the cold air hot due to the condensor not cooling,

The first step is to repair any leaks and also make sure the radiator fan turns on to cool engine, when you turn on the a/c the fansss will run, if they do not then have the fans checked.

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Usually coolant have special markers which shine in UV light, so you can take an uv lamp and check for leaks.
Also check oil level and color (it shouldn't be white, if so coolant - runs into oil, serious repair needed)
Also their should be no white smoke (more or less) from exhaust pipe.. if there is - the gasket is damaged and repair is needed.

In conclusion - there are three ways to loose coolant: leakage, leakage to oil, leakage to combustion chamber.

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Let us know how you get on.Cheers.

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