Question about 2006 Ford Mustang
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 95 ford escort transmission leak
Dont waste your time and money trying to use a transmission stop leak product, they don't work on large leaks, you say the leak is excessive in this case the you must remove the transmission to access and remove the torque converter, after you have removed the torque converter carefully inspect the torque convert imput shaft for wear and also you will need to visually inspect the transmission front pump bushing for wear also, I have seen it all to often people just replace the seal thinking it was just a seal failure, well more times than not there is a reason for seal more than just the age of the seal, excessive wear on trans pump bushing and torque converter imput shaft is usaully the cause, check and repair those as good practice during this repair unless you just like to do the repair over again for free... also check the torque converter run out, sometime when they are repaired they are welded back together somewhat crooked which will cause it to spin off of a true center, this will cause immediate damage to transmission. Check also your engines crankshaft end play for looseness this can cause wobble which will transfer to transmission causing this problem as well... do the repair thouroughly and who ever does it for you have them check all that I listed and you should get a good repair which will last without issues.... please rate my help thanks...
Posted on Aug 08, 2009
SOURCE: will not shift into overdrive.
Some possible causes for the A4LD transmission are:
1. Case connector and/or harness not seated.
2. 3-4 shift solenoid (3-4 solenoid wire pin 52 should read
approx 20 ohms)
3. Powertrain Control Module
4. Vacuum line disconnected from MAP sensor.
5. Map sensor
6. Throttle position sensor
7. Vehicle speed sensor
You may want to check to see if you have any codes as it will let you know if one of the sensors are at fault. Hope this helps, good luck.
Posted on May 11, 2009
Tighten till the wheel bearing is tight. No one really uses a specification for that, do it by feel. when the nut is tight, and there is no play in the bearing. Should be about 15-20 ft/lbs, with about .001-.003 end play if you need exact numbers though.
Posted on May 30, 2009
1.Flywheel - 61 to 69 Foot Pounds
2.Pressure Plate - 25 to 33 Foot Pounds
3.Bell Housing - No specs found. I would say 25 to 35 foot pounds should be sufficient.
Bolts clean on ->flywheel to crank, ->pressure plate to flywheel, and ->bell housing to back of engine, I would use TWO drops of Loctite Red threadlocker, on ALL of these bolts.
Hope you have an alignment tool for your clutch disk when you install it. Auto parts stores sell the plastic one's cheap! Saves a LOT of headaches!
Tighten the pressure plate EVENLY! Snug the bolts down until they just TOUCH, then go in a criss-cross pattern when tightening. Do the tightening in incremental stages! You turn one bolt one thread, you go across to the opposite side, and turn that bolt one thread. Keep criss-crossing so the pressure plate goes down EVENLY. (YES, it's a pain in the keister!)
If NOT, you'll have a warped pressure plate, and it will be junk!
Thanks for letting me say that, I feel better.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
SOURCE: head bolt torque spec
STARTING OUT YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE OLD BOLTS DUE TO STRETCHING.BESURE TO USE NEW BOLTS LUBRICATE NEW BOLTS IN OIL.BESURE TO USE TORQUE SEQUENCE GUIDE OR PHOTO.YOU GOING TO MAKE THREE PASSES * FIRST* PASS YOU TORQUE ALL HEAD BOLTS TO 12 TO 18 FT LBS * SECOND *PASS YOU TORQUE ALL BOLTS TO 26 TO 33 FT LBS.*THIRD PASS YOU TORQUE IT TO 44 FT LBS.THATS THE FINAL TORQUE.
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
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