Question about 2006 Volkswagen Passat

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I own a 2004 VW Passat 1.8T. I have a problem that nobody was able to solve yet. In the morning, if the car has not been started for more than 11 hours, then the car will not start. But if I turn the ignition and wait for two minutes, the car starts easily. It also starts easily if the temperature outside is above 75 degrees. Anything colder and the problem’s the same. Any ideas what the problem may be?

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  • faludisandor Oct 24, 2010

    Thank you for your answer. So if I build in a fuel pressure gauge in my system, it should show the problem? I still don’t understand why it is start perfectly when it’s warm.

  • faludisandor Oct 27, 2010

    Thank you. Is the back pressure valve in the fuel pump, or can I replace it separately?

  • faludisandor Oct 27, 2010

    133000 miles in it, it is a 1.8L 4 cyl. no check engine light, no error code. We just replaced the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, coolant flange, temperature sensor, and the valve cover gasket. I have this starting problem for 10 month, since I bought my car. According to my mechanic, everything semms alright.

  • faludisandor Dec 14, 2010

    I replaced the fuel pump, but still I have the same problem. But I noticed, that when the car doesn't start, the fuel pump doesn't work, (doesn't make any noise) and we know now, the fuel pump is good. So is this something electrical? Do you have any idea?

  • faludisandor Jan 10, 2011

    I have already replaced the fuel pump, the fuel pump relay, the hole electric panel under the relay, and the ignition switch. The car still doesn't want to start in the mornings. When I turn the ignition switch on, I can hear the fuel pump running for two seconds first time, but the car doesn't start. After that, when I start it again the fuel pump is mute, it doesn't do anything. When I wait couple minutes and turn the ignition switch on for a lot of times the car will run finally. After that everything works great, I can start the car normally all day long. I can hear the fuel pump for two seconds before start and everything is fine. But the next morning the problem starts over again.

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Ok, so I can get a clear picture.......how many kms has it got on it......you say it is a 1.8L turbo.........and has any work being performed on it recently........and have you had the scan tool on it to see if it comes up with any codes.......

Posted on Oct 25, 2010

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Actually I do, your back pressure valve that is supposed to close when you shut down is not closing like it should or you have a leak on the line that only presents when it is sucking Air. Both are common, we normally call them Vapor Lock. I'm sure you heard the one about putting a close pin on the line where it enter the Injector lines, I have found this seldom works with anything but a Rochester Carb known as the Quadrajet, it appears dependable but it is a nightmare to work on. Anyway, You need to disconnect and plug the line at the fuel pump and to a Leak down test to isolate. Once you have the line plugged pressurize the line to 15 psi and attach a gauge unit it the lines, let sit overnight and check pressure. If it has lost pressure over night you have a very small leak on the line and will need to trace the line. Do not use more than 15 psi on that line. Pressurizing with Air is much different from pressure with fuel. If no lose is found, replace the fuel pump. If you have already replaced this pump you need to take it back and get one that has a good back pressure valve, in any event, replace again. The line stay pressurized even after you have shut the vehicle down. Some leakage back to the tank is expected but if there is too much an Air bubble forms in the line and locks the injectors or causes the pump to **** air. In rare, and I mean rare, situations there is damage to the inside of the fuel tank it self causing this problem. There is a baffle inside that is just tac-welded in place. It is designed to stop the fuel from knocking the pump around when traveling. If you have a plastic tank it is still possible it is damaged but Highly Unlikely.

Posted on Oct 24, 2010

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  • James Young Oct 25, 2010

    When the vehicle is warm it hasn't formed the air bubble that is blocking your fuel from the injectors. Your actually isolating to the problem. It is either the Pump or the lines. A leak down test will show you which.

  • James Young Oct 25, 2010

    I hope you got my previous reply. You are not building a pressure gauge to use while running the vehicle. You are trying to isolate to 1 of 2 areas that could be causing your issue. If you disconnect and plug the fuel line at the fuel pump it won't be able to pressurize the line. By doing the leak down test I recommend you will be able to isolate the problem to either a leak allowing air in or the fuel pump. When the vehicle is warm it isn't as hard for the pump to get the air bubble out of the line and fuel to the cylinders. Also, after using the vehicle the line hasn't formed an air bubble yet. Most likely when the vehicle is operating the pump is able to keep sufficient fuel and pressure in the line to keep it from sucking air and forming air bubbles. This test will take a few hours to perform. As you said, if you start it up before 11 minutes or so it goes just fine. A leak on the line or faulty fuel pump are the only possible problems in this.

  • James Young Oct 28, 2010

    The back Flow stop or Siphon stop is located on the fuel pump. It is supposed to stop the fuel from coming back down and forming air bubbles in the fuel supply line.

  • James Young Dec 14, 2010

    This sounds like a faulty relay somewhere or a short that is intermittent, not constant. Start by replacing the Relay in the power distribution center and tracing the wires for shorts. If this doesn't fix the problem replace the ignition switch and relay.

  • James Young Jan 10, 2011

    Yes, that would indicate an electrical issue. Since it only happens when it is cold it could be moisture in a control box on the wires. Although moisture doesn't really seem correct since normally moisture would effect systems the same way warm or cold. This actually sounds like you have a diesel engine as that is the only other time I have ever encountered something like this. In a diesel engine you have to wait for the glow plugs to warm up before you can start the vehicle and they started adding a safety circuit several years back that prohibited the fuel pump from functioning before the glow plug gave a signal it was ready to prevent damage to the glow plug. This would explain all the symptoms since in the cold it would take longer for the plug to warm up than it would when it is warm out. It is possible that the vehicle had a computer replacement in the past before you owned it and the individual that did it actually picked one up in a junk yard without verifying the engine type. I would not recommend randomly changing this component however due to cost. If it turns out this is the case it would be better cost wise to just wait the 2 minutes with the ignition switch in the ON position on cold days.

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