Question about 1992 Nissan Sentra 4 Door

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It doesn´t start

It has battery because all the electronics and lights work. when I try to ignite it doesn`t sound. I´ll appreciate any advice.
Bernie

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  • Berny08 Jun 07, 2008

    No it doesn´t. The engine does not turn over at all. I know that it has carbons inside the starter motor could I change them?

  • Meph1234 May 11, 2010

    Does the engine turn over at all, sounds like the starter motor to me.

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The relay to the starter solenoid may need replacing.
check your earth returns on the starter to car-body and all other wiring connections, clean terminals are good.
Quickfix for sticky starters = tap starter with a hammer and kick her over, works for some other cars like mitzibishis

Posted on Sep 04, 2008

  • go2azza
    go2azza Sep 11, 2008

    Lights and things may well go, but check the Battery voltage is approx 14V without the engine on and get someone else to turn ignition while you check the voltage doesn't drop dramatically below 12V (if it does your battery maight need lookin at).

    I still think you should check the relay that goes to the starter motor solenoid.

    If you take the starter motor and solenoid out of your car, disconnect your battery leads and connect them directly to the starter (dont worry, no chance of getting a shock and be sure to hold the starter down so it doesnt jump offt the bench). Connect the Neg. to the starter body and the Pos to the soleniod terminal (which ever until it kicks into life). If it kicks into life, stop, this means your starter and solenoid work fine. If nothing happens, then somewhere in the link between your ignition to the solenoid lies the problem, again check the relay.

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My 2000 lincoln ls doesn't crank or click when trying to start it, it does nothing? all the lights work, radio, signals and horn, I checked the fuel relay and the starter relay and the ignition fu


Sounds like an Ignition Module or similar device. Does it have an alarm? Turn the key to ON - not start - and put into Drive and then back into Park. It may be the shifter isn't fully engaged. Also, w/your FOOT ON THE BRAKE shift to Neutral and try to start it.

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Won't start


Switch on head lights or cabin light. If they doesn't come on or is weak, the battery is flat. Ensure that you switch off the lights.
With ignition switched on, assuming the lights on the instrument panel cames on and your immobiliser is deactivated, turn ignition to start. You should hear the solenoid at the starter making a click sound. If not, the battery is flat or the starter solenoid is faulty. If it does make a click sound, the battery could be too low to turn the starter or the starter is faulty. Assuming the immobiliser is working correctly, and the starter tries to turn the engine but it doesn't want to turn, the gasket could be blown and the cylinder filled with water, or the engine could be seized.
Hope it is not the last case. MarioCpt

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I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

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Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

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Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


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Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

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