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Re: new rebuild chatters
1983 has hydraulic lifters. I wish this was simpler. There is a zero lash adjustment. Adjustment is possible at idle but it is best to use valve clips to keep the oil from squirting all over the place. After cranking the engine over by hand, where 1/4 turn after the Intake valve closes on each cylinder, adjust these two valves to zero lash. After adjusting all eight sets of valves during the hand cranking process, you should be able start the pickup with minimum amount of valve noise. With engine running Adj. each bank slowly, backing off each valve until there is some noise then slowly tighten 3/4 to 1 revolution. The hydraulic lifters should take care of the rest. Hopefully there will be no other noise.
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Valve chatter sounds pretty serious. Replacing coil pack won't help. I would check compression, if low, squirt a little oil in the plug holes, and if compression doesn't come up, bad valves.
You might need to check/set valve timing again, too.
hot or cold engine or both, is not stated and very very important.
1.6L is a G16B 16valve engine.
find a a mech that can do this.
did you drop all belts first? run cold cold for 2 min, gone now?
use stethoscope to the front timing belt cover, is this it?
forget the 60k mile new timing belt , BINGO.?
Forget the 60k valve last check and the stethoscope shows, noise on top valve cover. harbor freight sells it for $5
is oil pressure at spec, using a real gauge?
is the front crank pulley bolt (17mm head) at 94/100 ft/lbs,. BINGO?
is the exhaust collector donut gasket bad? (common) sounds just like bad rods too. so while making noise , use a lever and bend the header pipe,(below collector at CAT, lever it, does noise stop.?? BINGO !
is the intake pipe on top of engine, not with huge bolts hold it to the exh top rear header tight, many are loose. fix that now.
once you prove all this is good, then bad engine.? by process of elimiation. works.
This could be caused from a few different things, so lets start with the simplest thing first. Since you are certain that there is not a knock in the engine, I would start by changing the oil and substitute a quart of oil and use a can of Seafoam in its place. This will clean the engine and any oil build up that has occurred over the years. I would then recommend changing the oil filter; make sure that you get one that has a check valve in it, so you will not have a dry start. You mentioned that the engine is chattering, and that is not a good sign. This means that parts, probably lifters, are not getting properly lubricated, and that may be the sign of a bad pump. I know that you stated that you have changed it, but, there is a chance that it is faulty. Before you do that, I would recommend that you put a live oil pressure gage on the engine to see what pressure you are holding. The engine should hold 20-40 psi at an idle. The 10 psi that you are getting is not sufficient, and if this goes unresolved, then you are looking at some serious internal engine damage.
use an engine flush when changing oil/filter use only 10/40 semi synthetic oil(change every 10k)top end chatter occurs when engine is cold/oil not up to followers,but should stop about 30 secs after starting engine.there ARE NO adjustments AT ALL.if chattering persists,then top end rebuild req.
the person who told you about "rockers"should learn about self adjusting valve followers....
Yes, you are missing something. The days of removing the battery cable ended with Generators. An Alternator will self destruct if you do that. Be certain to remove it and get it bench tested. Usually kills diodes and often regulator.
the doors clicking sounds like a problem in the door lock circuit, often in the door jamb. If you inspect and find broken wires in the door jamb, do not repair there, you need to replace the entire length. All repairs fail quickly. The wired need to be new and flexible.
On the no start with new battery, be sure to test the neutral safety switch.