Re: Jaguar xk8 rear quaterlight operation after top is...
I have solved part of problem,, if you use the manual latch key and close the latch, you need to push the wrench all the way counter clockwise and the windows do go up. the latch mechanism has the activation switch in it..need to be fully closed
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
common prob. with early xk is the hood fluid turning to jelly, the answer is to clean out the system. ie pipework, resovoir etc. to open the hood, open the valve on the pump, located in boot rh, remove blanking plug in headlining. use allen key to release forward hood latch,the hood can then be worked manually.to change the fluid you have to remove the forward hood latch. disconnect pipes, press the hood switch to pump out the old fluid,remove the pump and drain out the old fluid, work the hood manually 3 or 4 times to extract the remaining old fluid, the correct fluid to put back is pentosill it will bleed itself.if this is not the cause of the prob. then its electrical. go to a auto electrician you will need a wiring diagram of the system to sort that out, its got loads of relays e.t.c. and is controlled through the body processor module.
to latch manually you have a allen key located on the pump in the boot rh side, remove the little plug on the screen closing panel and use the key to latch the mechanism. if the roof top operation is poor/ sluggish it needs the roof/top hydraulic system flushing and new pentosyl fluid using in the system the old type/origional fluid can turn to a jelly like substance.
Hi Mike..we just bought a 97 xk8 with the same problem. Simple fix. Remove the carpet on the right side of the trunk, above the cd changer. You'll see the pump. We were able to top off the fluid using a turkey baster and a flex-straw. Make sure you have the correct hydrolic fluid and just **** some into the baster, attach the flex-straw to the end and bend it into the fill hole on top of the pump. Super simple. Worked like a charm. Roof raising and lowering like new.
you have a hydraulic leak there are two lines that meet in the middle by the light cluster both lines should be changed you have to pull back headliner to see lines and leak one line runs under drivers side panel near side of seat and other line runs under passenger side panel near the side of the seat going to the back seats and to the trunk where hydraulic motor and fluid box is its a hard job and takes about six hours to do lines arer 214.00 fluid is 70.00 and about 800 in labor
The rear windows are controlled by a timer in the top's ECU. If the
rear windows stop fully closing before your top is closed, the problem
MAY be with top's hydraulic system.
Check your top's hydraulic
reserve tank for low fluid level. Lack of fluid will greatly delay
the top's closing sequence, leaving those rear windows partially
open. Your top's hydraulic pump system is located beneath the right side of
the cubby/storage box behind the front seats. Raise the cover and
you'll see a removable trim panel on the right side. The pump is
behind that access panel.
You can use power steering fluid to top
off the tank, but don't fill it above level indicator line. You
may have to add more fluid after you cycle the top up and down to
get the air bubbles out of the lines. It could also be a relay. On a 95 the relays that are in the trunk above the battery. Perhaps,
just switching the relays might prove which one is failing..
First, check the fuses for the hydraulic motor; if they're blown, replace and monitor (why did they blow? Perhaps an overload, or ...) These fuses are located in the engine bay on top of the fender by the front right wheel housing.
Next check the voltage supply to the top switch, possibly a loose connection or broken wire.
Also check relays C (raising top) and D (lowering top) under the rear seat.
Lastly check for voltage at the pump, also under the rear seat, when the switch is actuated, and that the voltage polarity reverses when the switch is actuated the other way (up or down).
After that, it's a hydraulic/mechanical problem. Check the fluid level in the pump reservoir (use SAAB fluid to top up if low) Fluid level should be at the upper marker with top down, and at the lower marker with top up.
Check behind the rear seat side panels that the piston shaft is still properly attached to the roof mechanism bracket at one end, and the piston itself is still firmly attached to the body. Look for any leakage from the system.
If all tests out OK and looks good under the rear seat and behind the side panels, then there is the possibility that the piston seals have failed and the fluid is just circulating around without activating the piston. Pistons are available (http://www.convertibletopguys.com/cgi-local/displaycat.cgi?cat=584 - scroll down) but the entire system should be removed to avoid getting hydraulic fluid on the interior.
However, that fact that you can operate the hood using the bypass valve (manually) would indicate that the hydraulics are likely OK, and that it's probably an electrical or mechanical problem.
The problem in my Jag was the hydraulic cylenders that raise the top. The seals in the cyl's leak by, and there isn't enough pressure to lift the top. No external fluid leaks, just internal to the cyl's. I had estimates from 2 shops to replace the units. $1,500 at both shops. I purchased the cylenders for $750 and replaced the myself. Required refilling the tank on the pump in the trunk, passenger sideb behind carpeted panel. Works like new again.
Hmm, you may need to get the dealer to adjust the cables. Also make sure the pump has fluid (right side trunk, behind the cover). Once the top comes down to the top of the window, you can see the device that should pull it down tight. In an emergency, there is a hex key in the right side of the trunk that you can use to manually bring that down tight. Your vehicle manual explains how to do this emergency operation.