LINE THE POINT ON THE CAMSHAFT SPROCKET WITH THE DIMPLE IN THE HEAD, THEN THERE WILL BE A NOTCH IN THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET THAT LINES UP WITH THE NOTCH RIGHT ABOVE IT, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIND IT! MAKE SURE IT IS THE SPROCKET AND NOT THE PULLEY CAUSE IF I REMEMBER RIGHT THEY AREN'T THE SAME.
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Hello pamgolmon: My name is Roger and i will answer your question. The 2-0 dual cam engine is a interference engine. This means if the engine jumps time at the timing belt. It will bend the valves. As for the timing marks on the camshafts. Their are no marks to be located. To set the timing marks on this engine requires special tools. This makes it expensive for not only the do it yourself mechanic but also the repair shops also. If the valves were bent you must pull the head for the repairs also.
I know this is not the answer you were hoping for but it is the only answer to give. Please rate the quality of the answer as this way we know your answer was correct. Please just ask if you need further help. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
You didn't say which 4 cylinder engine you have, whether it is a single or dual cam engine? I am assuming since it is a station wagon it is the single cam engine.
On camshaft gear you should see a little arrow or pointer in one of the windows of the gear,it should be at the top and should line up with a dot on the head. The crankshaft pulley groove should be at the top and it should line up with a dot on the block or TDC/ 0 on the guage.
Stage 1 = 15Nm Stage 2 = 40Nm Stage 3 = Plus 90 degrees or quarter of a turn. Good tip is to mark all the bolts after initial torque setting with tip-ex , i.e. all to the front of the car. When you finish they should all point towards the timing belt. This is also a good way to make sure you don't miss one or tighten one twice if you are distracted since it is not a torque setting. New bolts should be used by the way as they are stretch bolts. Timing of cams - remove cam cover and you will see a slot on the end of the cams. Opposite end from belt. You need to slip a piece of 5mm flat bar or a long 5mm allen key into then so that the bar rests on the face of the head. Engine should be a tdc. cheers John
Cam has a "V". Crank has a keyway. Both should be directly on top of the pullys toward the top of the engine. This is an interference engine. Do not force. After replacing the timing belt, turn the crank by ratchet (clockwise) two complete turns to assure. Should feel some resistence but not more than you can easily overcome. If it stops dead and you KNOW it's "just not right" you are 180 out and need to start over.
No it will NOT bend valves on this particular engine, if it goes out of
time. I would replace BOTH the timing belt and the drive belt at the
same time, since both are very inexpensive, even from the Ford dealer.
Line up both timing marks on both the cam and crank sprockets in the 12
o'clock position. The marks are very easy to see, once you remove the
timing belt cover. Hope this helps.