To start, why did you replace the starter? Was it bad? Did you have it checked? Is the new one good? And what is the battery reading in Volts? Does it click at all, crank at all? Did you check the fusible link? Follow the hot wire from the battery to the link, a giant fuse type thing, check it out. Is the ground wire from the battery bolted to the frame or body, and engine? Is the starter connected right? Are the terminals on the battery posts squeaky clean? they have to be or it won't do anything. Check the electrolyte fluid and see what the gravity of each cell is. The battery with one weak cell is a dead duck. The voltage should be at 13.5 at all times. The posts have got to be clean and tight, the starter should at least click. Do you have an anti-theft device somewhere in there you forgot about? Check it out. Hope this helps.
Wow! First I should tell you you're dealing with a female here with limited knowledge. I replaced the started because I assumed that was the problem. I don't think the one I took off was bad. I bought a new, not rebuilt starter so I believe it's okay. The battery checks good at 12.78V. All I get is a clicking sound from the solenoid. Forgive me for being dumb, but I don't know where the fusible link is located. How do I go about checking that? The terminals are almost new and the posts are clean. The battery is less than 1 year old and checked fine. No anti-theft devices.
You have been more help than anyone I've talked to. I'm convinced it's an electrical problem. If you could help guide me through this issue with the link, I'll check that. I'm really suspect of the ground wire. When I turn on the A/C, heat, lights etc., the gauge for the oil pressure goes crazy. Where on the frame and engine will I find the grounding located?
Thank you so much for your help!!
I figured as much. Only kidding. the fusible is ok if it clicks, and the lights and stuff come on. The ground wire is the negative lead on the battery, it usually goes right to the engine or has a clip on the frame somewhere and then goes to the engine. If the starter is new, and the terminals are clean, but the starter is only clicking, it is a signature of dead battery. At 12.7 V, It should crank right up. So, if all else checks out, I would have to bet on the starter wires or the battery terminals, they can look real good and still not make contact. Now, just one question, when you say you turn on the ac, heater, lights,, the oil goes crazy, when was this?? When it was running?? Or now when you turn on the fan now?? need to know.
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, I was waiting up last night but finally fell asleep. And I am just getting a chance to sit down now. OK< the oil pressure gauge is nothing, Mine does the same thing, it is like a tachometer, when the engine revs, it goes way up, when it idles, it comes way down, Mine has been like that for years. Now back to the battery, did you get a chance to check anything today>??/ Did you ever try to jump it with another car? Can you turn the battery terminals with your hands? I know you have a bad connection there somewhere, Who put the starter in and why didn't they try it>? Did you do it? Still have the old starter?? Get back to me here with some info, I will get you going if I have to come up there myself, where are you anyway?
Didn't get the chance to do anything with it today. Running myself ragged with my business.
Did try to jump it and it wouldn't start. The only way I could get it started after I got stranded was have someone push me and pop the clutch, it will start like that. I don't know about the battery cables. I will try to go out to the garage before I give it up tonight and check that out. I think I need to take something sharp like a pocket knife and scrape the inside of the cables and the posts just to be sure there is a good connection.
I do still have the old starter. I really don't think there's anything wrong with it. Napa replaced it under warranty as the original was bought in May 09. I have not returned the original one yet.
I really appreciate your help! My son has said he will try and come over and see if he can help me trace the cable you were talking about from the battery post to the frame to the engine to the starter. I'm supposed to go out-of-town this weekend so it may be a few days before that can happen.
I'm in Oklahoma, where are you?
Woops, I don't think I can make it that far, I'm in Florida. Now, if the terminals, are looking good, what about the spot where the wire bolts on to the terminals?? Is it the old fashioned big post, or those new ting things that stink??? If it is the old one, the wire that bolts to the terminal could be corroded too. It has to be tight, clean and no corrosion. You can clean up the acid with baking soda and water, it will eat right into it, I have cleaned terminals and not even a click, clean them again and still nothing, then take off the wires and clean them, flip the washer thing over and tighten them babies up and it will fire right up. Just didn't get it clean enough. Check that out. Also get one of those floaty ball battery testers, they can tell you a lot about your battery, regardless of voltage, how much power it has to spare. Walmart will check your battery for you for free, If it is weak, it could still register the 12.7 volts but not have any umph. If you have lights and dash board your ground connection is good, you have voltage, just not enough, the starter demands a lot of power. Check it out, let me know what you find.
I couldn't move the terminals with my hands, but that doesn't really mean anything. They look a little grody to me so ASAP I will get out there and take them off and see what gives. I so hope you're right, I'm so tried of messing with this. If I could find a mechanic worth a flip, I would take it to them in a heartbeat. As I told you initially, even the Ford dealer here couldn't fix it. They replaced a couple of vacuum hoses and said "there ya go, good as new". Wrong. They didn't fix a thing. I live in a small town and may be forced to take the truck to Tulsa if I can't get it resolved. I know chasing a bad connection can be the pits, but not impossible if you know what you're doing which I don't! Probably what I should do is buy a new truck. I bought this one new and have done very little to it. At 149,000 I've got my money's worth out of it. It still looks great and is a good little truck. I hate to junk it out for something that I KNOW can be fixed!
I have one of those floaty testers, but I don't think my battery is the kind you can open up. I took it to Walmart and they tested it okay. CCA was 805 and 12.73Volts. It's only about a year old. I think the battery is okay. I will get after the connections with the baking soda solution. Where the wire attaches to the terminal, it looks a little cruddy there. My Dad told me it could be a grounding strap. That's different than the ground wire right?
Sorry I'm not getting my thoughts together too well tonight. I'm pooped,
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Not starting battery reads 12.78 new starter, new starter relay , new clutch pedal sensor,new positive cables to battery and starter ,and new ignition switch on 1994 Ford ranger 2.3 and took ignition control switch but no crank or low volts on dash board
If it's cranking, check for fuel and fire next.
Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5821173-doesnt_car_start_gasoline_engines . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.
Eureka! We have found the problem!!!! My dad (a retired electrical contractor) told me to try three things. 1. take the jumper cables and connect one end to the engine and one to the negative battery terminal (parallell that cable in other words). 2. connect one cable to the positive on the battery to the positive on the solenoid (parallell that cable) 3. short across the terminals on the solenoid. He explained that would verify if the cable and/or terminal was bad from the negative battery to the block or the starter to the battery or the starter switch. The first one worked. Hooked that puppy to the alternator bracket and the negative battery terminal and it starts better than it has in years. So I know the problem is definately between the neg. battery terminal and block. It's such a tight area where the cable connects to the block, there is no way I can do that. BUT at least I can TAKE my truck to a mechanic and TELL him to CHANGE the cable and CLEAN the termination point on the block. I don't think it can get any easier than that. Surely if the customer diagnoses the problem they can follow through and make the repair. Thanks so much for your input! I'll be one happy chick off to Arkansas early tomorrow morning!
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The oil gauge needle pegs out high when the engine is running. If I turn on without the engine running, it doesn't do it.
Mister Agent 91, if you solve my problem, I'll be more than happy to pay you. I've had this truck to two mechanics, one being a Ford dealer and they just stand around and scratch their heads when I tell them what I think the problem is. I really think the ground problem is the right track.
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