II was changing my brake pads and accidently unscrewed the bolt to my break fluid. I finished the pads and went to set the brake and it just went to the floorboard and checked brake fluid. the resivoir was full. 'Is there air in the line? If so where did it come from?

Brake pad i them selves are a fairly easy job. However, to do the job correctly the rotters must be turned on a lathe. If you take the rotors off and bring them to a shop then you should change the barrings, the barrings must be packed with grease and reinstalled all this is simple but takes skill. you can also just buy new rotors and then just turn the old ones at your leasure for use in the future.

But that said,
to change the pads you will need a "C" clamp, a screw driver and some break cleaner. open the hood and take the cover off the master break cylinder. if you can remove some of the fluid. as you depress the wheel cylinder fluid will build up in the master cylinder resivware and over flow, you might be able to catch this with rags. Don't let this get on the paint. You may also need a set of allen wrenches. use the allen wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the break assembly in place, with the bolts all the way out remove the assembly by rocking it back and forth. once off remove the pads (pay close attention to any clips and the position of the pads there could be a difference between the inside and out side, left or right). after the pad are off place the "C" clamp over the puck and slowly tighten until it is all the way in, just hand tight, don't crank hard or fast, take your time. this is the easy part. after it is in remove the clamp and install the pads in the revers order mentioned, tighten down the bolts real tight. after all the pads are replaced the brake fluid will look real yucky. and rusty, pump the break peddle and see if you get a good peddle. you should as long as you did not remove the lines. use the break cleaner to clean off any grime or dust on the rotters and pads.

Depending on vehicle. Find level ground and park there. Put chocks in front and behind wheels not being lifted. Loosen lugs, jack up vehicle, set jack stands, lower vehicle on jack stands, remove lugs and wheel. Open hood remove brake fluid cap. Remove two bolts holding caliper, pull caliper off rotor disc and bracket, remove pads, place a used pad in front of caliper piston, use a c clamp to push caliper piston in caliper, remove c clamp and old pad, hang caliper up, remove 2 bolts holding caliper bracket, remove bracket, remove rotor, install new rotor, install caliper bracket, install new pads, install caliper, repeat this on other side, put cap back on brake fluid tank, remove bleeder fittings and keep pressing brake pedal until an even flow of brake fluid sprays out. Install bleeder fitting. Make sure brake fluid doesnt get on paint and is contained and disposed of correctly, top off fluid install wheels and raise car up remove jack stands, lower car and break in new pads

You sure do. And make sure that those bolts that you re-installed are torqued down tight, and that there is no grit in between.

Best Regards,

The Wrench

Ford Taurus - Front Brake Replacement A couple of things should be noted before you begin. Number one is, don’t be alone when you do this. If the car is in the air and it falls on you, all of your money saving ideas go out the window because you are dead or really hurt. Seriously, if you are going to work under your car while it is up on jack stands (not a couple of tree stumps or your child’s Hot Wheel or the two big rocks you found in the garden) let someone know so they can check on you once in a while. Another thing, the brake pads and linings may contain asbestos so don’t inhale the brake dust or blow it out with compressed air. Never use petroleum based solvents to clean brake parts and make sure you use a DOT 3 brake fluid when filling the master cylinder. 00:35 Here are some tools and equipment that you may need to buy: jack and jack stand lug wrench needle nose pliers standard and cross tip screwdrivers socket wrench with sockets from 1/4" to 1" in size 00:49 If you plan on doing brakes all of the time, you m ay want to add these things to your tool list: caliper spreader brake spring pliers brake adjusting tool brake bleeder hose brake cleaner 01:07 Set the emergency brake and make sure car is on level ground. 01:13 Remove the lug nuts and tire. 01:20 The part on top of the brakes is the brake caliper. 01:25 Using a 12mm socket, loosen both of the bolts located on the inside portion of the brake assembly. Remove the two bolts by hand after they are loose and place somewhere safe so as to remember which bolt went on top and bottom. 01:50 After you remove the bolts, set the caliper upside down on the brake assembly being very careful not to kink the brake hoses. 02:00 Pull the brake pads out and install the new brake pads. 02:08 Place the old brake pads in the upside down caliper and place the caliper spreader between them. Open the spreader until snug. 02:22 Flip the caliper over and break the brake bleeder valve open and with more pressure exerted on the pads by the spreader, use a container to capture the old brake fluid. Once you meet resistance, stop applying pressure. 02:53 Next, tighten bleeder valve back up and remove the caliper spreader and remove old brake pads from the caliper. 03:07 Place the caliper back to it’s original position over the brake pads and install the top and bottom bolts by hand (to avoid cross threading) and snug with the socket. Replace tire

break tire bolts jack up truck finish taking bolts off of tire unscrew calipers reset the circular pads but be very careful not to crack it slide in new pads bleed lines put everything back on in reverse order

for front pads jack and support car remove wheels remove bolts holding calliper [2]remove spring clip pull calliper off remove pads clean housing fit outer pad slowley push calliper piston in using large grips fit inner pad to piston refitcalliper fit bolts refit spring clip can be awkward pump brake pedal until firm check fluid level rear ones are the same but special tool needed to wind calliper pistons back in note make sure brake discs are in good condition first

Same as any other vehicle.

1. Raise and support vehicle
2. Remove tire/wheel
3. Loosen/remove the two caliper bolts
4. Slide caliper off the rotor.
5. Use a C-Clamp to depress the caliper piston
6. Remove old pads from caliper
7. Install new pads on caliper
8. Install caliper/tighten caliper bolts
9. Install tire/wheel
10.Lower vehicle
11 Move to next wheel/repeat

Some people take a turkey baster and remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder prior to depressing the caliper piston because it can over flow. If you choose to do that just add the fluid back when finished so it is at its proper level.

break pads are easy to replace......this is what you should do

things you need: hex keys for if the bolts are socket like....or a good pair of plyers if they overlap.......

1. open you cars hood
2. remove the cap off you brake fluid reservoir.
get some fluid out of it first.
3. now its time to remove the tires.
4. ok look at the rotors and you should see the calipers.
5. its time to get the calipers out.
6. unscrew the bolts "there should be two only"
7. now that you have taken the calipers off take the break pads off aswell.
8. make shure you dont twist the hoses too much or they will break.
9. now its time to compress the caliper cylinders...
10. if you have a "c-****" get it out get one of you old break pads and place it on top of the cylinder, then get the c-**** on it and start twisting until it compreses back,"be careful not to go to far"
11. if you are successful compressing them...now its time to get the pads on.
12. make shure you put them right "the one that clips goes in the cylinder and the other one goes in at the front of the rotor.
13. dont missplace them or they will not work well.
14. if you are succesfull puting them back were they belong, now its time to get the calipers back on the rotor.

15. make shure that your calipers move freely, because if they dont them they will produce excessive friction and perhaps even rotor wear
16. its time to check the fluid. make shure you dont over fill just a little bit below max line is good. because as your brake wear and so will the fluid go down.

17. put tire on and start driving just a little bit...make shure that your brakes work and you should be good to go...

You will first need to have a car jack, proceed to jack up the front side of the car you want to work on. Make sure you place the jack on the proper location, refer to instruction in manual. Take off your tire, now the whole brake assembly is visible, there will be two bolts on back of the brake unit. One at the top and one at the bottom. Unscrew both of these and proceed to slide the used pads and the unit you've just unscrewed. Make sure you clean off all dirt, rust and break pad rosedew. Now you'll need a C-clamp, The piece with the rubber protector on it needs to be compressed back into its compartment with the use of your C-clamp. Now that the unit is clean and the compressor is back in the chamber it's time to replace the small steel break sliders with the new ones provided with your new break set, slide your new breaks into those slots, beside the router. Your almost finished, just slide the break compressor back over the breaks and bolt the unit back on, make sure you tighten the bolts well , as these are your breaks and they will save your life. The only thing to do now is clean your tire inside and out while its off and put it back on your car. Have fun and don't worry it's easy.

no just change pads one side at a time when you finish start car and lightly pump pedal till you have a full pedal