At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Warped front rotors from over using the brakes, heat from hard braking.........replace the front rotors with new ones and re-try. Might as well do the pads too as you are right there.
nothing, It doesn't work like that, when your brake switch is mounted , correctly , your pedal has a bracket on it that pushes the switch plunger in so brake lights are off. when you push brake pedal in, to stop vehicle, the switch plunger (spring loaded) comes out to turn brake lights ON ! get it ? when you release pedal it pushes plunger in, to turn lights OFF !
I would say your break switch is stuck. It is a round chrome cylinder above your break pedal. The break stem hits it when you push down the break. Try to loosen the button. It is stuck.
I think before you had hit the car in front of you, You did push the brakes too hard and that might make the Brake light switch stick and the lights will stay on soon as the battery is reconnected. So check the brake light switch which should be under your brake pedal. Good luck
does the rpm motor kick down? you may need to check your vacuum hoses, and also you may want to check your exaust, sounds wierd but that can cause the car to stall at times.as for the traction light, your hitting the brakes to hard. try slowing down a little slower while stopping, and keep distance for saftey.. if you can take it a little slower at lights and turns, without braking hard and it stops stalling.
sounds like the brake light switch is stuck the switch is on the brake pedal when you push the pedal to apply brakes it completes a normally open circuit
Sounds like your power brake booster is bad internally. That booster works off of engine vacuum and when you have a vacuum leak your car will run very badly. The booster uses engine vacuum to help push your brakes and when your booster doesn't work your brakes will be almost very hard to push. The car will stop but everything just feels like something isn't right. There is a tube going to your brake booster from the engine. One way to check for a bad brake booster is to remove that tube from the brake booster, pinch or seal off the end of that tube with something other than your hand. Start the car. The car should idle WAY too high at this point because of the "meantime fix". If you were to drive the car with that tube clamped off it would run better but your brakes would still be hard to push. The woosh you hear when you press the brakes is a sign of a broken diaphram inside the brake booster and when you hear that the engine is loosing vacuum and will run very badly at that point as noted by your stalls when you apply the brakes. I understand the no money part of your problem. If it were me, I would put the tube back on the brake booster and then I would take a small set of locking pliers and lock the clamp of the pliers across that tube and that will stop the brake booster from loosing vacuum but would still allow you to drive without stalling but be aware the brakes will still be VERY hard to push. As I said before. they will work but you will have to apply more pressure to the peddle because there will be no power assist function going to your brakes.
Please be aware, try this temp fix at your own risk. The true fix for your problem is to replace the brake booster.
×