We have changed the alternator. Still rings. Thought it might be power steering pump. Still ringing. What might it be? Two rotating things left. Water pump or oil pump? Or something I don't know about?
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The pulley wheel bearing on the auxiliary drive belt tensioner, which does not come as a separate part from ford, was showing signs of wear so I decided to replace the tensioner. It's not a simple "whip the old one out" and "stick another one in" as the information in my Haynes manual suggests. In fact the information in my Haynes Service and Repair Manual - Ford Focus 1998 to 2001 (S to Y reg) Petrol and Diesel.
Also, looking under the car it appeared that the Power Steering Pump is bolted onto, or on top of, the tensioner which means the power steering pump may have to come off in order to remove the tensioner. Not so simple a job as the Haynes manual describes.
I have discovered there are three, 15mm nuts (Torqued to 48Nm) securing the Tensioner, two below the power steering pump and one above, identifiable by three protruding studs with T40 torx ends. An E8 torx spanner would be necessary if it were proposed to remove these studs. In addition, I have also discovered that the power steering pump, secured with four, 10mm bolts, is bolted directly on top of the tensioner, piggy back style (There are four bolt holes in the tensioner body for mounting the power steering pump). So in order to remove the tensioner, it is also necessary to remove (and drain) the power steering pump. An alternative method of removing the tensioner might be to unbolt the pump (without draining) and move it to one side out the way while the tensioner is being removed.
Creating More Workspace:
It is necessary to remove the CAC to inlet manifold pipe (drivers side) i.e. the wide, black pipe bolted to the top of the engine, to gain access to the P.S. pump and move the Engine Coolant Resevoir to one side. Also, to make the process easier and create additional space, it may be helpful to remove the following additional items from the car:
fuel filter (and plastic retaining clip).
oil filter (to make access easier to the nuts bolts and pipes from below the car)
the EGR cooler connection pipe (optional).
15mm Deep, Hex Socket and large 15mm Ring Spanner - tensioner mounting nuts
E8 Torx Spanner for removing 3 studs with T40 Torx ends (method 2 only)
18mm (or 3/8W, 7/16BS) Crowfoot wrench for removing union nut on HP pipe power steering pump. (method 1 only)
10mm ring or combination spanners, long and short (P.S. Pump).
10mm, hex socket ( narrower 3/8" drive preferred) - power steering pump bolts (Methods 1 and 2)
Hose Clamp (clamping bottom hose power steering pump)
Teflon seal / o-ring for union on HP Line, Power Steering Pump or new union (See Notes 2 & 3)
Here is a general description of the "external" O-ring on the Power Steering Pump HP union. Someone may be able to find a supplier for the o-rings on the Internet Note that the "internal" black, rubber o-ring is also an integral part of the replacement union.
Material: Teflon (PTFE)
Cross Sectional Area: 1mm x 1mm (square)
Outside Diameter .......... 16.5mm
Inside Diameter .............14.5mm
Note that sizes are approximate as the o-ring may have expanded slightly as I was removing it from the union. The diameter of the groove the o-ring sits in is 14mm.
I have a concorde. Let me tell you its not easy to work on. The alternator is located just below the power steering pump. The power steering pump is attached to the power steering reservoir. To gain access you have to remove the metal plate that has the washer fluid bolted to it. It has alot of bolts. Then remove the radiator fans so you have more room to work. The engine has two belts. Once you get the belts off the alternator is attached by a metal plate just below the power steering pump. Once its loose remove it from under the car. Hope this helped.
1. Remove mounting bolts and remove upper timing cover and gasket. Drain coolant into clean bucket. 2. Loosen the 4 water pump pulley mounting bolts. Loosen alternator adjusting and mounting bolts and remove the belt. 3. Remove the water pump pulley bolts and the pulley. 4. Remove the water pump inlet mounting bolt from the side of the block and then remove the 2 nuts attaching the pipe to the water pump. Remove the pipe. 5. Remove the mounting bracket bolt and then remove the dipstick tube. Plug the hole with a rag. Remove the right hand under cover and the power steering adjusting bracket ( if it has power steering). 6.Remove the 3 bolts and remove the water pump. Keep coolant OFF the timing belt (plenty of rags to soak it up)., Remove the O ring from the block. 7. To install a new pump, start by replacing the O ring in the block. Then the reverse of these steps. 8. Water pump mounting bolts are torqued to 11 ft.lbs only. Also replace the O ring on the dipstick tube and coat it with oil before reinstalling. 9. Refill the cooling system and run the engine up to operating temperature, with the heater running. This will force the air out of the system. Once the air is out top up the rad and replace the rad cap.
FIRST YOU DRAIN POWER STEERING PUMP USING A SIPHON. PLACE DRAIN PAN UNDER VECHICLE WHERE POWER STEERING PUMP LOCATION WOULD BE.THE DRAIN PAN WILL CATCH FLUID AS YOU REMOVE POWER STEERING LINE.YOU NEED FLARE IN LINE WRENCHES AND A NEW POWER STEERING PRESSURE LINE AND NEW O - RINGS. IF NEW PRESSURE LINE DONT HAVE NEW O- RING THE DEALERSHIP WILL HAVE IT.
The ringing noise could be from a bad alternator, a loose bolt, a loose pulley or gear or possibly a low fluid level in the power steering pump. Try listening for the noise when the engine is idling, then as you rev the motor from 1000 to 1800rpm and also while you are driving on the street and the highway. While the car is in park and running, crank the steering wheel right and/or left until it stops and hold it there to listen for noises from the power steering. The electronic gurgling noise and chattering noises could be failing bearings in one of the pulleys (tensioner, idler,etc. and/or possibly a water pump bearing. Here is a tip for diagnosis-
Find 3/8 drive extension that is at least 12" to 18" long. Open the hood and start the car. Take one end of the extension and place it on the alternator body away from any electrical connections, pulleys, belts, etc. and put your ear against the other end and listen for chattering, ringing or any other odd noise. Then do the same to the p/s pump, a/c compressor, etc. BE SURE YOU SAFELY APPLY THIS TECHNIC AND IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE, TAKE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL. SAFETY FIRST.
the power steering pump might have siezed up causing the belt to slip to burn on the pulley. or the pump broke the shaft internally and some fluid is leaking out and hitting the exaust a hose has sprung a leak and it is spaying oil on the exaust manifold
It is a safe bet the serpantine belt that drives the power steering and alternator has snapped, open the hood and check, there should be a belt about an inch wide or so running round the pulleys, if you can see a bunch of polished rings across the pulleys then the belts gone, you need a special tool or a decent toolbox to fit a new one, it often also runs the water pump so dont drive far.