I have a van which has a solar panel on the roof. There are a few small lights which are always elluminated that are connected to the solar panel operation. The van is used mainly for camping and as the price of gas climes, the use of the van declines. The van is in a garage, so, no light for the solar panel. I do run the vehicle from time to time; however, not long enough to charge the batteries. My question: will a light bulb over the solar panel charge the battery. If so, what would be the minimum size?
Yes, but the efficiency of solar cells is terrible. Its one thing to use free sunlught to charge the cells, its another to have to pay the electric company to do it. If you can access the batteries in the solar rig easily and they are in the correct voltage range, I think you would be better off getting a battery tender (trickle charger). Just let the van sit outside until the batteries are fully charged, then connect the battery tender to keep it fully charged.
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A solar powered electric fence energizer usually contains a battery for energy storage. The solar panel collects the energy from the sun and charges the battery. Lead acid batteries, which are used in solar fence chargers, typically last around 3 years, or around 1,000 days of charging.
A solar powered electric fence energizer usually contains a battery for energy storage. The solar panel collects the energy from the sun and charges the battery. Lead acid batteries, which are used in solar fence chargers, typically last around 3 years, or around 1,000 days of charging.What can I do to prevent ... - What factors should I consider ...
leave in situ and put on charge with a 4 amp charger and leave it alone for a good two days to de sulphate the plates and charge the battery ,disconnect the earth lead so you dont damage any computer with a slight AC ripple you always get with any battery charger unless its a solar panel
Take your battery in for testing after charging it. Then, to avoid pulling the Alternator for nothing, drive to a local Autozone, Advance, or Oeilys and ask them to check your charging system on the Van.
Consider taking an extra battery if you have one to fit, so you can get back home after the test. Run the van with the charger connected until you get good heat, then reduce the blower fan speed to minimum. Then disconnect charger.
If you are still stuck on the road, jumpstart the van until it is warm, using the jump car to charge the battery so you can go home and try again. Just leave the battery jumpers connected to the struggling van battery a few minutes so the old battery has a chance to charge.
TAKE BATTERY TO AUTO PARTS STORE FOR A LOAD TEST PROCEDURE, MAKE SURE THE CASE IT IS PUT IN HAS THE DOOR CLOSED FOR YOUR SAFETY, BATTERIES SOMETIMES DO "EXPLODE" AND ACID FLYING IS NOT GOOD. IF BATTERY IS NOT GOOD, I WILL SUGGEST YOUR BUY AN AMPHOROUS SOLAR POWERED BATTERY CHARGING PANEL, THEY COST BOUT 30 BUCKS AND WILL KEEP YOUR BATTERY CHARGED UP OVER LONG PERIODS OF TIME.
Right disconnect the battery and see if stops as i have had this problem before and the cause is a solar panel in the sun roof will cause this motor to run to keep the interior temperature down on a hot day .This had me well baffled last week with a AUDI A8 i spent a short while thinking what the noise was then when i found the noise was the blower motor i started to try to think of all the causes i think off then i looked for the fuse board when i thought disconnect the battery first --- and the noise still continued and it was hot over 30? C so i took my overhauls off and threw them over the roof getting ready to look for a second battery somewhere and the noise stopped ,removed the overhauls and it started again so look at the sun roof and it had a solar panel in the glass .BOY DID I FEEL LIKE A IDIOT
That is not necessarily correct-if the car sits all the time, parasitic drain on the battery will eventually kill even a new battery. Telling someone that a car has to be driven 1000 miles a month to maintain the battery is not a solution-if you don't drive alot, get a trickle charger ($good one is $30, one that works can be found for $10) that you can plug in and keep hooked up to the battery to keep it fresh. Another way is to get a solar panel charger (1 1/2 watt, about $20 at Harbor Freight) and put the panel on the dashboard, and the other end into the cigarette lighter socket in the dashboard. A third solution is to buy a deep cycle battery (Optima) that can be fully drained hundreds of times yet will recover and work properly-these are expensive ($175), but out perform conventional batteries that die if fully discharged a few times. You could also install a remote starter and periodically start the car, letting it run for 15 minutes-about $200
Try to isolate the problem. If the current flow is between the fuse block and the window switch you may be grounding somewhere between. Next check the window switch. If there is current flow across the switch when not being used, replace the switch. There should be no current at the window motor until the switch is engaged. On the other hand, you could just buy one of those solar powered battery chargers for about $40 to keep the battery up and not worry about it until something fails.