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Re: Heater blowing cold air and temp gauge running hot....
I have a 92/3.8 that did the same thing. This sounds silly but it worked. I used a floor jack and raised the front of the car as high as I could. Then filled the radiator (car NOT running). Hope this helps
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Sounds like the water pump is cavitating . Replace water pump. Check coolant level also. Open the bleeder valve usually located on thermostat housing to remove air from system. close valve when coolant is present while filling. close radiator cap and top off recovery bottle to correct level. These engines are prone to overheating, do not let temp gauge get in the red.
Your temp sensor has nothing to do with your heater. The temp sensor needs coolant in order to work properly. So first check the coolant level because if it is low your heater will act the way you describe. Once the coolant gets low enough the heater will blow cold. Another possibility is the radiator cap. After the engine has warmed up it expands when it cools down it contracts. As it is contracting if the cap is weak air can be drawn into the system and cause air pockets to form and will cause the same problem
The plenum may be cracked, check for air blowing out where it should not, or the blender door is not opening, a cable sheath may have popped loose, or the heater core itself is clogged with leaf debris blocking air flow..
Does temp gauge on dash show normal temp? If so problem is with the controls. If sytem cycles through normal controls IE, defroster, floor,bi-level and redirects air properly check to make sure door control is functional for heater core. If door is not opening then you will never get hot air
Definitely check your fluid level in your radiator. Top it off all the way. I've seen that happen multiple times on cars that were low on anti-freeze. If that doesn't work try replacing your thermostat. It's cheap and the easiest place to start if topping off the fluid doesn't get you fixed up.
you have air trapped in the cooling system. A good indication is that one or both of your heater hoses going into the heater core are cold when they should be hot.
Park facing uphill, raise front of vehicle so radiator cap is higher than top of engine. (You want bubble to get to radiator and out the cap.)
Leave cap on but loose, so bubble can purge.
Turn heater on.
Fill radiator and reservoir with 50/50 mix of antifreeze.
Start engine and run at about 1500 roms until the engine warms up and thermostat opens.
You will know themostat opens when top radiator hose is hot indicating coolant is flowing.
Shut off engine.
Fill radiator and reservoir. Install cap.
I think you could be right about there being air trapped in the system. Or the heater core(radiator) is plugged. Either way you need a pressurized radiator coolant pump to put the coolant in without air being trapped. Although,i have seen it done by jacking the vehicle up high enough that the radiator was now higher than the heater core level, and then the coolant was put in. But this is dangerous to try.
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