Question about Ford Contour
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
first and foremost check the fuse box. there is a fuse for guages. The temp sensor is somewhere on the manifold and it will have a hard wire with probably a spring around it for protections that runs from the engine to the instrument cluster. You can remove the temp sensor and use a heat gun or propain heat and see if you get any kind of response. I suspect if all your other gauges are working the fuse is good. Most temp sensors do not use power only for lighting of the gauge, It just sends a resistance change to the water temp bulb and it moves the gauge. Is it a seperate gauge or in your insturment cluster? could be simple as a crushed line or the sensor went bad. It is normally self contained. I suspect it is a gauge and not a dummy light? if you can not get the one working in the instrument cluster I suggest going to and autoparts store and replace it which is very easy to do. You can remove the old sensor from the block and reinstall the new on in its place and run the cable back through where the first one was and mount the gauge in another area, It is very important to know the water temp since most computers use this info for setting the correct fuel to air mixture in a closed loop system. That is a diffrent sensor but you need to know the temp yourself to keep from blowing a head gasket or worse which can cause you lots of money to repair, I prefer to mount my own gauge seperate from the cluster, best of luck
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
98 ford contour 2.0 belt routing
here is a picture of routing and how to do it , etc. , good resource ..
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
no problem. If you are getting that low of voltage on a load then you might want to test the alternator as well to make sure it is running at capacity.
Posted on Feb 23, 2009
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