Question about 1993 Toyota 4Runner

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I crossed my battery terminals now i have only a horn and headlights. no power to ignition

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Check main fuse under hood.

Posted on Oct 16, 2010

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No start or no electrical power inside or outside of the vehicle


No headlights, horn, or brake lights? I would expect nothing at the ignition switch, either, then? No warning lights or gauges with key on?

Any chance the battery is discharged? It would have to be very low or dead if connections are clean and tight. Inspect the cables, take them off and clean the terminals of corrosion, tighten them down good. Check the ground where it bolts to metal-if not a good ground, power will not flow. From the battery, power is sent through fuse links and maxi fuses in the power distribution box, to distribute power through all the car's circuits. Either a fuse link or a maxi fuse will send power to the ignition switch. Another will send power to the headlight switch, and another will send power to the fuse panel under the dash, powering those fuses that are hot at all times (like the brake lights and horn).
It sounds like your power is not getting from the battery to the power distribution box, if just nothing works. Bad battery or bad connection, possibly.

Sep 07, 2013 | 1999 Ford Escort

1 Answer

97 civic has power going to and from fuse box. Still no headlights,no dome light, no horn, no ignition, no power at all. Replaced battery and all relevant fuses look intact.


You have a 40amp fuse powering the key switch. The headlights are on a different 30amp fuse.
Do you have power on both fuses ?

Jul 05, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replaced solenoid and battery terminals. No power to ignition side of solenoid with key on. Power to battery side. No headlights, horn or domelights with key off, no dash lights. Battery checked and ok


Sounds as if you have a bad power systems relay. On '91 and newer vehicles there is a rectangular box located on one of the fender wells that houses relays and soleniods for various vehicle component operations. Caution, this box is water tight FOR a reason.

Apr 10, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1995 dodge ram 1500, battery is good, no power at all anywhere including the horn and headlights. could it be the ignition switch? thanks in advance!


It sounds more like a bad connection to the battery. Lose terminal, Broken cable are both posibilities. The head lights and horn should work regardless of the ignition being on or off. Check all your connections to your battery and you should find the problem.

Jan 08, 2011 | Dodge Ram 1500 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

I have changed all fuses and relays pertaining my horn. How do I check the actual horn to see if the horn itself isn't working?


Disconnect the plug from the horn and using a negative and Positive wire that you run directly from the battery make contact with each on the horn contacts. The horn should sound, if it doesn't the horn is bad. If it does and it still doesn't work from the button on the steering wheel, since you have replaced the fuses and relays already, the horn button on the steering wheel is bad.

Oct 29, 2010 | 2002 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

I crossed my battery teminals by accident now i only have headlights and a horn. no power to ignition


Check all of the fuses and the PAL fusible links in the fuse box located under the hood in the engine compartment.


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Oct 16, 2010 | 1993 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

1991 Park Avenue: new battiery will not hold charge...


Check the following to see if your cars electrical system is causing a power drain.

*Make sure all headlights and interior lights, and accessories are off when vehicle is not in use.

*Have your alternator professionally tested to make sure the built in power regulator is not going bad. Also check that the alternator is putting out a proper charge during vehicle operation. (Use a digital multimeter, touch the test leads to the battery terminals while the car is running RED to positive+ and BLACK to negative-, being careful you don't cross the two and never let positive and negative touch. Multimeter should read 14 volts DC with the car running. If it reads under 14 volts, replace the alternator.

*Check for a bad grounding wire (usually the negative battery cable), if it's cracked, frayed, or bare wire is exposed replace it right away. It can drain the battery if the bare wire touches the metal of the vehicle.

* If your car is equipped with the twilight sentinel (automatic headlight feature) shut it off manually when your done using your car for the day. If the twilight sentinel is going bad, it can draw battery power even if the headlights are off.

*Have a test performed to make sure you don't have a faulty ignition switch. This can draw power even with the ignition key off.

*If all of the above test good, you likely have defective battery. Replace battery. Feel free to contact me if problems persist.

Good Luck!

May 16, 2010 | 1991 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

HORN DIAGRAM FOR A DODGE RAM 1500 (CONNECTIONS)


Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Black/Orange And Red/White
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Positive Wire (+): Blue (16 Gauge)
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Red
Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Positive Wire (+): Blue (10 Gauge)
Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Accessory Positive Wire (+): Orange
Second Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Black/Yellow
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Power Door Lock Positive Wire (+): Orange/Violet
Power Door Lock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 6-Pin
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire (+): Pink/Violet
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 12-Pin
Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Domelight Supervision Wire: Use Door Trigger (Requires Relay)
Domelight Supervision Wire Location: N/A
Horn Negative Wire (-): Black/Red
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Gray
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At PCM, Connector 1, Pin A7. The PCM (powertrain control module) is located on the firewall next to the wiper motor.
Brake Light Positive Wire (+): White/Tan
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch Above Brake Pedal
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Black/Orange (To disarm requires a (-) negative through a 1565 ohm resistor and an extra relay to connect.)
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 12 Pin Plug
Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: N/A

Aug 22, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Ram 3500 2WD

1 Answer

94 suburban no power at ignition


test the ignition switch or look for a burnt connector to the switch, if the connector is burnt/melted replace the connector and the switch.

Mar 06, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

Starter wont engage


The problem is either the starter solinoid (located on fender near battery) or you are not getting power to the "s" terminal on the starter solinoid from the ignition switch. If you follow the positive battery cable from the battery you'll follow it to the solinoid. Remove the small wire from the terminal marked "s" on the solinoid and using a screwdriver jump from "s" terminal (not the wire) to where positive battery cable connects to solinoid. (with battery connected). If starter doesn't do anything the solinoid is bad. If starter cranks then you are not getting voltage from ignition switch through "s" terminal wire.

Feb 19, 2009 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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