How do you get the rotor off a 1995 Dodge 2500 4X4? I have removed the 1 3/4" nut and cannot get the rotor off.

First off, don't expect them to just fall off after removing the large nut in the center of the hub. I tried that. Granted, the nut does need to come off, but, after removing the caliper, there's four more bolts that come in from the backside that also need to be removed. This then allows you to remove the front spindle, hub, and rotor as an assembly. Watch your toes! Also note how the dust shield is sandwiched in amongst all of this. Once this assembly is off, the wheel studs can be driven out with a hydraulic press (no small feat), and the rotor falls away from the hub

If its to wheel drive than it will have a inner and outer bearing. 1. Remove the caliper 2. Remove the dust cap from the center of he rotor 3. Remove the cotter pin from the spindle 4. Remove the castellated nut 5. Remove the nut and washwer 6. Remove the outer bearing 7. Remove the rotor from the spindle 8. Remove the grease seal from the back of the rotor 9. Remove the inner bearing Clean the grease out of the rotor. Use a punch to remove the inner and outer races from the hub. Install the new races into the rotor with a seal/race driver. Pack the new bearings. Install inner bearing into rotor. Install new grease seal. Wipe old grease off of the spindle and apply a thin coat of new great. Install rotor ono spindle. Install outer bearing, washer, and nut. Tighten nut snug then back off nut a half of turn and then tighten agin just barely snug. Install castellated nut and cotter pin. Reinstall dust cap Reinstall caliper and your done. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

I beleve all heavy duty trucks would have a axle nut to adjust/hold it in.

a 7 mm hex head wrench for the caliper bolts. the nut that holds the bearings in place is usually a 1 inch or 1 1/16 inch, but a pair of pliers should be enough to take the nut off after the cotter pin is removed. when you put the nut back on DO NOT over tighten it or you will damage the wheel bearings.

Jack up your Dodge Ram. Block the wheels to keep it from rolling as you work. Get started by removing the first tire and wheel assembly. Remove the hub extension and the brake caliper as well as the caliper adapter.

Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, washer and outer wheel bearing. Now, pull the old rotor off of the spindle. Clean the area with a damp cloth to remove any debris. Pack the wheel bearings with grease.

Install the new rotor and hub onto the spindle. Replace the outer wheel bearing, washer, and then the retaining nut. Torque the nut to 30 to 40 ft. lbs. while rotating the hub and rotor. Then tighten the nut and install the nut lock and a new cotter pin.

Clean the grease cap and then coat it with new wheel bearing grease and replace the cap. Put the caliper adapter back into place and then tighten the two mounting bolts with a torque wrench. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

Repeat this process for each additional rotor and then lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts and test drive your Dodge Ram to make sure that the installation was successful.

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FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle
   
   
3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware
   
   
5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
   
8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
   
10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    
13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
14. Assemble the hub parts.
15. Install the caliper.
16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive

1. Remove the wheel cover.
2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle
   
   
3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship
   
   
5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat
    
    
16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).

Brake Disc (Rotor) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise and safely support the front of the truck with jackstands. Remove the front wheel.
2. Remove the caliper assembly and support it to the frame with a piece of wire without disconnecting the brake fluid hose.
3. Remove the hub and rotor assembly.
4. Install the rotor in the reverse order of removal, and adjust the wheel bearing as outlined in Section 1.

INSPECTION If the rotor is deeply scarred or has shallow cracks, it may be refinished on a disc brake rotor lathe. Also, if the lateral run-out exceeds 0.010 in. (0.25mm) within a 6 in. (152mm) radius when measured with a dial indicator, with the stylus 1 in. (25mm) in from the edge of the rotor, the rotor should be refinished or replaced. A maximum of 0.020 in. (0.5mm) of material may be removed equally from each friction surface of the rotor. If the damage cannot be corrected when the rotor has been machined to the minimum thickness shown on the rotor, it should be replaced. The finished braking surfaces of the rotor must be parallel within 0.007 in. (0.178mm) and lateral run-out must not be more than 0.003 in. (0.076mm) on the inboard surface in a 5 in. (127mm) radius. Fig. 1: Use a dial indicator and micrometer to check the rotor for run-out and thickness
Fig. 2: A correct final rotor finish
Fig. 3: Location of the rotor minimum thickness marking
Fig. 4: Exploded view of a rotor mounting to the hub — 4WD Dakota models shown

remove wheel,brakes,rotor,axle nut,wheel bearing then the axle should pull right out

The rotors on most vehicles are removed by (1) removing the wheel, (2) remove the silver colored cap in the center of the hub, (3) remove the cotter pin that goes through the axle nut and axle, (4) remove the axle nut, (5) remove the disc brake caliper (6) now pull on the rotor. It should slide off the axle. Reassemble in reverse order, being sure that the axle bearings are in place with proper amount of grease.

The rotors on chevrolets are held on by the caliper and the lug nuts. You do not have to remove the cv shaft nut. Remove the wheel, remove the caliper bracket with caliper, and there may be a little retaining clip on one of the lugnut studs. Break this off, and discard(you don't need to replace), and the rotor will come right off, and on occasion will need persuasion from the **** end of a hammer, or a dead-blow hammer, or such. Again, removing the cv/driveshaft retaining nut will not do you any good, and must be replaced with each removal.