Question about GMC Safari

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I replaced all brake lines on 1999 GMC Safari now having difficulty getting brake fluid to wheels. Brake pedal doesn't seem to pump anything. Fluid is at ABS unit but not wheels. How do I bleed the lines?

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  • clarkcameron Oct 17, 2010

    I have tried the manual method and still no fluid past ABS unit. Tried to vacuum fluid from end of brake line but that did not draw fluid either. I had ignition on for each attempt. Reviewed lines and have no kinks. Any other suggestions?

  • clarkcameron Oct 17, 2010

    This is not working. After pumping and bleeding 30 times at the right rear wheel cyl, I get no fluid. Reservoir is not going down. The master cylinder worked fine before I replaced the lines. Is there something I have to do with the ABS to get it to let the fluid thru?

  • clarkcameron Oct 18, 2010

    OK...had to have the engine running to bleed the brakes

    Thanks

  • clarkcameron Oct 18, 2010

    Yes. The engine had to be running before the bleeding could be done. Thank you

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    I don't know how to bleed the abs unit.or if I have to

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To bleed the brakes start at the rear pass wheel. On each wheels brake cylinder will be a small bleed valve. The valve looks like a grease zert fitting, or a tube with hex flats to loosen with an end wrench. This job takes two people. Turn the ign. switch to the on position to activate the ABS system. and remove the reservoir lid. Be sure you have plenty of Brake fluid handy. fill the res. and lay the lid back on (be careful with brake fluid it can and will burn the paint off of the car) . Have your helper pump the brakes a few times and then hold the brake pedal down while you loosen the brake bleeder valve at the wheel cylinder, do not let the pedal up with the valve open.. Be sure you tell your helper to hold down the pedal until you have re-tightened the little valve. Next once you have fluid moving to the brake cyl. you are bleeding, move to the drivers side rear wheel and do the same, check the reservoir - keep it full so you do not **** air back in. Keep working around to the front pass side doing the same, pump. pump, hold - open the valve and bleed out the air, close the valve, pump, pump, pump, hold, bleed. Check the res. Move to the drivers side wheel and bleed it. Once you think your done do it again just to be sure. Start at the pass rear wheel, move around the car once more. pump, pump, pump, hold, bleed. Take your time be careful with the bleeder valves they may be very tight and try not to break them off. You only need tto loosen them a small bit to let air out. Hope this helps.

Posted on Oct 16, 2010

  • John Fourteen Six Oct 16, 2010

    To bleed the brakes start at the rear pass wheel. On each wheels brake cylinder will be a small bleed valve. The valve looks like a grease zert fitting, or a tube with hex flats to loosen with an end wrench. This job takes two people. Turn the ign. switch to the on position to activate the ABS system. and remove the reservoir lid. Be sure you have plenty of Brake fluid handy. fill the res. and lay the lid back on (be careful with brake fluid it can and will burn the paint off of the car) . Have your helper pump the brakes a few times and then hold the brake pedal down while you loosen the brake bleeder valve at the wheel cylinder, do not let the pedal up with the valve open.. Be sure you tell your helper to hold down the pedal until you have re-tightened the little valve. Next once you have fluid moving to the brake cyl. you are bleeding, move to the drivers side rear wheel and do the same, check the reservoir - keep it full so you do not **** air back in. Keep working around to the front pass side doing the same, pump. pump, hold - open the valve and bleed out the air, close the valve, pump, pump, pump, hold, bleed. Check the res. Move to the drivers side wheel and bleed it. Once you think your done do it again just to be sure. Start at the pass rear wheel, move around the car once more. pump, pump, pump, hold, bleed. Take your time be careful with the bleeder valves they may be very tight and try not to break them off. You only need tto loosen them a small bit to let air out. Hope this helps.

  • John Fourteen Six Oct 17, 2010

    Ok ,lets bleed the master cylinder first. Again with the ign. sw. on. have a helper push down on the brake peddle one time and hold it. Then take each line loose one at the time no matter which first. Then let the peddle up push down once and take each line loose again. You should get fluid to move, if you do not, Start the engine and retry the master cylinder. Then try each brake line as noted.

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I changed rear break line on my 1997 gmc sarfari tried bleeding it. but I am not getting any fluid going to the rear wheel from the abs pump how do I fix the problem? My front breaks are working properly, pedal is stiff no fuel to either rear wheel .

Posted on Sep 26, 2013

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2 Answers

Brake lines probably broke. brakes stopped working suddenly.


There are many things other than brake lines that can cause braking loss. Investigation will reveal the issue. First, check fluid level in the Master Cylinder. If the level is normal, you don't have any broken lines/leaks. If the fluid is full and you have no brake pedal/braking power, chances are the Master Cylinder itself has failed. There are o-rings internal to the M/C that can fail, and when this happens, you will lose pressure to wheel cylinders/calipers and, as a result, lose your brakes.

If the fluid has leaked out, then you need to find out fro where. This is not too difficult normally. Fill the M/C with fluid and have someone press the brake pedal while observing the underside of the vehicle. You should see fluid dripping from somewhere, often near one of the wheels. You can have a leaking caliper/wheel cylinder, brake hose, or metal brake line. Once you determine what part has failed, you can purchase and replace the defective part. Brake calipers, wheel cylinders, and hoses are fairly simple to replace. Brake lines are more difficult, as they require shaping, cutting, and the creation of couplings. After repairs are done, the brake system must be refilled and all air bled from the system or braking will not be satisfactory.

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the wheel that the line you replaced is where you start. make sure the master cylinder doesn`t get low on brake fluid. crack open the bleed screw and have someone push down on the pedal and when the pedal is at the floor have them hold it down and close the bleeder. have them release the pedal and repeat until you get a solid stream of brake fluid. then go to the opposite wheel and bleed that wheel cylinder, again until you get a solid stream and a firm pedal.

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The tube for my brakes going from the caliper to the inside of the car burst. i went to replace them and it did not help my breaks are still not working. how do you properly bleed the brakes on a 2003 gmc...


Bleeding brakes can be very frustrating.There are two ways you can do them 1 gravity feed;this means that you undo the bleeder screw on the caliper or the wheel cylinder and let the brake fluid flow until all air is removed from the system or 2 suction bleed; this involves going to your auto supply store and buying a small hand held pump that creates a suction which in turn,once connected over the bleeder screw,allows you to pull brake fluid and the air out of the system.If you have a friend to help you have them depress the brake pedal until it reaches the floor while you loosen the bleeder screw and discharge the air/fluid.Tighten the screw before the brake pedal is released,release the pedal and repeat.Keep checking the master cylinder and do not let the fluid run low.Don't pump the pedal repeatedly,brake fluid is hydroscopic,which means it can absorb air directly into itself.Slowly and firmly does it until you have purged all the air.You will know when it is all gone because hard pedal will come back.Good Luck

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My abs & brake lights go on & off brake pedal seems soft brake fluid - ok, no leaks, has new brake lines, slamming on the brakes locks 'em up. no abs, right? 2000 gmc jimmy 4.3


Sounds like you might have air in the brake system. You will need to bleed the brakes to remove air. Start with the passenger back wheel. use a small hose and submerge the end in a glass bottle filled 1/3 full of brake fluid. The other end goes on the nipple of the brake bleeder. Have someone pump the brakes and then hold the pedal down then loosen the bleeder. then tighten the bleeder. you should see bubbles in the brake fluid. Keep repeating this procedure until you see no bubbles. You might have to put as much as 1 quart of brake fluid thru each wheel to remove air. Then you do the driver side rear followed bypassenger side front and finally driver side front

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You'll need to pump the brakes and hold the pedal down, then have someone open the brake bleeder on the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, after the fluid and air comes out, close the bleeder and repeat until you only have fluid coming out. Then go to the next fartherest wheel and repeat the process. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the resevoir.

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1 Answer

No brake fluid to the rear wheel cylinders


You'll need to start bleeding the brake system at the Master cylinder to determine where the problem lies.

The lines coming out of the master cylinder will need to be loosened & bled there, initially you can just do the back ones to identify the problem, but once fixed, the system will have to be bled from the Master cylinder first, then the farthest wheel from it, then next farthest, then next, until you do the drivers wheel last.

This method of bleeding the brakes prevents air from crossing from one line to another, causing air to be left in the system.

Back to bleeding the rear brakes first: As someone pumps up the brake pressure, making sure the resivoir stays full, with the cap on between bleeding, and have the person pressing the pedal to do these thngs.
1. Always move the pedal slowly, pressing and releasing.
2. Never release the pressure on the pedal after bleeding a brake, until the line is tightened, then release slowly to prevent air from getting into the fluid.

You should of course get fluid at the master cylinder when you bleed it (or just replace it), then you'll need to bleed the line at the right rear wheel (first) a few times to get fluid if it's been leaking, then the left rear wheel. If you get pressure but no fluid to the rear and the master cyliinder did have pressure released when you bled it, there is either a restriction in the line itself, or the porportioning valve could be damaged. (unusual for the valve to go bad actually, inspect lines for damage such as being pinched if you're getting pressure but no fluid.

Final test if it hasn't been resolved-remove lines at porportioning valve & make sure fluid is leaving/entering there as it should. If you find it defective, a good replacement can come from a salvage yard, or you can buy them new.

Brake fluid on the floorboard under the dash near the brake pedal=bad Master Cylinder.

good luck

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Your brake line has a hole in it and the fluid is leaking out. Either front or back lines. Replace brake lines. I had all the brakes go at once on mine.

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28-DEC-08
Sometimes (when changing the brake calipers on disk brakes, or changing wheel cylinders on drum brake systems) the mechanic will clamp a vise grip pliers on the rubber hose to prevent hydraulic fluid from dripping out.  This can break the internal fiber lining in the rubber hose.  Then the fluid flow can be blocked.  When you press the brake pedal, fluid may not flow to the wheel or wheels.  As you press harder, the fluid may suddenly flow through the line, causing the brakes to suddenly activate.  
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Ken   Camas, Washington kjlusa@gmail.com

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