Question about 1991 Volvo 740

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If I speed up slowly I can go to 70-80 but if I push too much gas it will drop off to idle and I must turn off the key and turn on again and it is good to go

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Check your crank sensor. The symptoms you describe indicate a timing error. When you push hard the ECU tries to advance the ignition according to the signals it receives from the the crank position sensor CPS. These signals are either being interrupted or corrupted. Make sure the cps connection is dry, free of dirt and corrosion and that there is continuity in the wires with no obvious breaks or insulation removed. Remove the CPS and check that it is clean and free of body cracks. If problems persist swap the crank sensor out for a new one. These sensors are prone to heat and age.

Posted on Oct 16, 2010

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Which screw is feul setting screw and which is air setting one screw adjesting with spring which is that?


You have me concerned because you didn't even say carburetor...

So I am going to assume it...
and what make of vehicle (year?)... let alone the make or style of your "fuel" screws...

but to answer your question it really is unimportant.

Air-screw is always associated with the throttle shaft... the adjusting of the primary screw rotates the position of the plates on the throttle shaft exactly the same as the gas pedal does.

The fuel screw is usually pointed to the center of the air stack... if it is a two barrel (2 air stacks) there will be two identical screws.

These screws interface with a very soft and delicate orifice... and must be treated with the highest care not to damage that orifice! Never over-tighten those screws!!

Adjusting is an acquired ART... but everybody has to start at the beginning! As long as you are gentle you may soon get the hang of it.

Always set the SPEED with the idle screw first... Then adjust the FUEL with the idle screw...

Gently turning it out to see if the RPMs increase... slowly screw them in (closed) until the motor speed drops ... back it out about a half turn... and again set the AIR screw for the correct RPMs.

You are probably pretty good there but if you want the best/smoothest idle mixture... again repeat the Fuel screw screwing it in... until the speed drops.

Again back it out a half turn and you should be done.

Just always remember that idle screw is last... Change in anything else... especially the timing... points gap... air screw... always finish with the idle adjustment.

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Engine idles high and then slowly drops to 1100 rpm it takes about 20 seconds and it does it every time you give it gas


Check the engine for vacuum leaks with a bottle Propane gas, if you hit a leak the idle will change right away. Repair as needed. If no leak is found have the engine computer run through a active self test, this checked the idle speed control system and returns a fault code. You can do a passive test as well. You will need a OBD1 system scanner or follow the instructions here.

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Starts and dies unless I rev it up then it will Idle


The battery might be low but I doubt it is causing the "no idle" problem.
You should have an idle air control valve that the computer uses to adjust idle speed. That valve could be faulty or dirty.
Is the check engine light on when the engine is running ?

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Oil gauge drops low at idle


Low oil pressure at idle can be caused by an engine with worn rod or main bearings due to (usually) high mileage . This however does not mean the engine is still not serviceable as long as the oil pressure is low only at idle. The pressure should at minimum get into the normal range at anything above idle speed.Not much oil pressure is really necessary at LOW speed. At low speed, as long as there is oil getting to the bearings, even at low pressure, you are OK. In a high mileage engine the oil pressure is often low at idle simply because the oil pump is turning slowly and cannot maintain higher pressure between the larger than normal crankshaft and bearing clearances. As speed increases the pump turns faster and supplies more oil and the pressure should go higher. Low pressure as long as it is only at idle is not a problem. However at higher speeds the pressure should be in the normal range. Such a worn engine can benefit from higher viscosity (thicker) oil such as 20W-50 in above freezing weather and 10W-40 in winter. That will increase idle pressure and the thicker oil film maintains a better film between the worn parts

Apr 08, 2012 | 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

As soon as i start the car, it idles very roughly and slowly until it finially stalls out. I push the gas to bring the rpms up but as soon as i let go of the gas it stalls out again. Any ideas on what the...


The IAC; idle air control valve, controls idle speed. This may be gummed up or faulty. But first check for vaccum leaks. These can occur at hoses, fittings, oil cap, dip stick, gaskets. buy a can of spray carb cleaner and clean the butterfly valve and bore, IAC, and use the rest of the can to search for vacuum leaks; run the engine and give short squirts of carb cleaner to the items listed above. The engine idle speed will change when you spray on a leak.

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1 Answer

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You might have a clogged Catalytic converter aka Cat.. Use a Vacuum gauge and insert it into vacuum system and check for vacuum reading. A gradual drop in Hg's from 20 Hg's to 0 at idle indicates a clogged Cat.

Sep 23, 2010 | 1996 Volkswagen Jetta

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