Question about Chevrolet Suburban
Sure! Its easy!! Let us just go over a brief description. Before lifting the vehicle loosen ( do not remove) the wheel nuts of the wheel you you wish to start on. Loosen the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap; under the hood on the fire wall. Put some old towel or cloth around the reservoir. Lift the corner of the vehicle with a car jack. Put an axle stand beneath part of the vehicle chassis frame. Lower the vehicle until the weight is borne by the axle stand. Remove the wheel nuts. Now use a large screw driver and insert it between the pad and the rotor. Twisting and then levering the screw driver will push the pads away from the rotor face and force the caliper pistons in a small way. Do this procedure either side of the rotor. The pads should be loose. Locate the two large bolts that secure the caliper to the hub carrier assembly. You may need a breaker bar to help loosen these large bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the caliper off and remove the pads. Find somewhere to shelve the caliper on the suspension arms so that it is out of the way and that no strain is put on the flexible brake hose. On some vehicles the rotors are held lightly by small Allen bolts, but I think that on Suburban they are just loose, held sandwiched between the hub and the wheel by the force of the wheel nuts. Tap the rotor outwards and it should just rattle off on the wheel studs (no bearing removal is required). First spray the new rotors with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean. Smear a a very small amount of anti seize grease around the base of each wheel stud and then slide on your new rotor. Using a large G clamp press the caliper pistons back into the cylinders. Now fit the new pads; ensure that any required anti rattle shims are also fitted; as an extra precaution against brake squeal run a light finger of anti seize (copper ease) on the backs of the pads where they make contact with the caliper pistons. Do not get any grease on the rotor or pad faces. Use a paper towel to get absolutely clean if any accidents occur Slip the caliper and new pads either side of the new rotor and replace the two large bolts. Tighten to the specified torque. Some recommend that Loctite is used on the threads but my own experience is that if the original bolts are not allowed to get dirty when removed that when they are torqued back up they will never work loose. Refit the wheel and tighten the wheel nuts the best you can for the moment. Spin the wheel and check for ease of rotation. Pump the brake pedal to seat the pads and rotor. Lift the vehicle off the axle stand and then lower the vehicle back down. Tighten the wheel nuts to correct torque settings. Check on the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If it looks like it will over flow at any point when pushing back on the brake calipers prior to fitting new pads decant some of the brake fluid out; a turkey baster works particularly well. Go to each wheel in turn and carry out the above procedure. When all wheels are completed ensure that brake fluid in the reservoir is at the maximum level and refit the filler cap. Really push hard on the brake pedal to bed the pads into the new rotors. Drive around for half an hour using the brakes frequently until you are confident that they are working at full efficiency. Job done.
Posted on Oct 15, 2010
A novice can replace brake pads, but the rotors may be more difficult if they are not floating.
Check with the parts store to see if they are floating. If they are, you are in luck and can change the rotor once the calipers are off.
Often the front wheel hub bearing assembly for driven and nondriven wheels is actually two tapered bearings facing each other.
Exploded view of a typical front wheel bearing assembly for a FWD vehicle. Courtesy of DaimlerChrysler Corporation Each of the bearings rides in its own race. Some front wheel bearings are sealed units and are lubricated for life. They are replaced and serviced as an assembly. Others are serviceable and require periodic lubrication and adjustment.
Except when making slight adjustments to the bearings, the bearing assembly must be removed for all service work.
Posted on Oct 15, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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