Question about 1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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Charging system woes continued...

Ok the dashboard voltmeter gauge normally sits at the "A" in Normal when the system is charging (and theres 14.5V at the battery). When the system is NOT charging, the dashboard voltmeter sits at the "N" in Normal. The voltmeter at the battery reads 12.2V at this time. I know that its charging and not charging. You can hear the difference in engine pitch. An alternator with voltage induced and charging has a magnetic field, making it harder to turn and putting more of a load on the engine. When it stops charging the engine idle speeds up. I know its working/not working when I bang on the steering wheel, it's not just the gauge. As I said i've spent 3 days on this and i'm no farther than I began. I'm real frustrated with it.

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Then you have a problem in the dashboard could be the circuit board behind the dash if you would like to i will tell you how to eliminate the dash from the charging system or install a straight wire from the ignition power to the ignition side of the alternator bulb,
but if you still want me to tell you how to elimiated the dash from chargin system let me know
of course this will be a mikey mouse but will take care of your problem.

Posted on Jun 03, 2008

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When braking, dash panel acts up. Speedometer goes to 0 and then back to normal. Clock and Radio lights dims and comes back, or goes out completely, comes back on after a minute.


Make sure the battery has a full charge and all connections good. Then check your charging system. Right now I'm thinking, check your charging system.
Do you have a voltmeter on your dash, what does it do when you step on the brake? It may drop a little, but, it should recover.

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My car needing a jump threw out the day


Ok I would have the battery tested. While testing battery make sure all connections are clean and tight on the battery terminals. If battery checks out to be good. Test the charging system, alternator. If alternator tests good make sure you belts are not slipping or worn and stretched out as this could cause a an inconsistent charge. While doing the battery test if posible do a draw test to see if anything is during current all the time as this could be draining or weakening the battery.

Apr 13, 2015 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

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Battery light stays on. Guage cluster amp meter reads normal charging 13-14 amps. Truck starts normal.


If charging light is on, it means some thing in the charging system is going bad. use a test light!-- battery voltage at battery when truck is off should be at least 12.6 or better, if alternator was charging good. if less than 12.4 and it is charging ok. battery is going bad. when engine is running, at the battery there should be at least 13.8 to 14.2 volts or better.if alternator is ok, all checks are done at the battery posts to determine voltage. Hope this helps you out! if less than 13.8 or lower while running. alt, is bad.

Jul 15, 2014 | 1989 Ford F 250

1 Answer

Battery runs down with can parked


I'm not certain I understand the problem, but it sounds as though the battery is not charging properly. Check it yourself, or have the charging system and battery checked. With the engine running the battery voltage should read about 14 volts. If it is much lower, the charging system is not working. If the battery goes down with the car just sitting, there is something drawing more current than it should. Easy things to check are for a glovebox light, overhead light, trunk light or underhood light that does not turn off. Normal draw with everything off, after sitting a few minutes, should be less than 100 milliamps. I hope this is helpful.

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1 Answer

Alternator 0%; battery not holding charge


Not sure I follow you. Nothing should be on at night with the key switch off.
If something is on or there is a short in the system, the battery will drain overnight.
And have you had the charging system checked on the truck ?
It should be charging 13.8 volts or more with the engine running.

Aug 08, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

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you need to check your charging system... check the date on your battery, inspect all connections and power leads. with car running test power leads with a voltmeter, normal operating threshold is around 14v while running.

Mar 14, 2012 | 2003 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

New battery and new alternator. Battery is dead after driving it for a week. Seems like the battery is not getting a charge.


Sounds like you may have battery drain . Take the vehicle to a shop and have them check out battery and charging system. If this is a-ok then its either the wires behind the alternator that are corroded or you have battery drain. They will set up a voltmeter off the battery trminals and start pulling fuses until the neter readings are normal. Whatever fuse they pull that makes the current return to normal is the affected circuit.

May 25, 2010 | 1991 Honda Prelude

2 Answers

When i drive, there is a light on the panel reading "Power" which remains on all the time.


There's an issue with your alternator...

Take a voltmeter and test the connection at your battery and see if it's charging between 13V-14V... if it's lower than 13V, it's not charging your battery properly. If it's over 14V, then it's over charging and damaging your battery

Aug 24, 2009 | 2002 Suzuki XL-7

1 Answer

Gauges quit working and battery died jumpstarted went approx 1 mile and it did the same thing.


Charge the battery to full. Start engine and apply voltmeter to battery posts. Reading should be 13.5-14.5 volts runing. If you read normal battery voltage then alternator is not charging. Check all fuses with test light. Power on both sides of same fuse o?k. Power on one side and not the other burnt fuse. Sometimes when looking at fuses they seem o/k. If they burn close to one end it can be difficult to see. Suggest using test light to be sure. There is a gauge fuse in the system and if it goes it stops power to the regulator on the alt. Hence "no charge" Hopr this helps

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